The Goods On Oils

[Moodles2]

The oldschool method for doing an oil flush, is dumping the old oil and refilling with a combination of diesel fuel and ATF. The diesel cleans it out, and the ATF lubricates. I wouldn't recommend doing this at all though.

[Booki]

Did some googling re using ATF, mixed results.

Can cause seals to fail due to moving away the sludge/carbon that is keeping them sealed, but it is a great cleaner.

Overall, good engine cleaner, but not that great for the engine as some can be bad for seal's/orings.

Maybe just using some cheaper oil for a flush may be a better option?

Do people run 10w-40 in their RB26's? Sometimes that particular weight in oil is on sale, or even 10w-30?

Or should I be using strictly 5w-40 even for flush's?

[TTT]

well if you want to be a nancy, you could just do an oil and filter change and use Diesel oil. Use that for a couple of hundred kms and then dump it and replace filter and use whatever new oil you want.

[Skylineman34]

i had my car serviced and had Motul 6100 15w50 put in it.

[bozodos]

getting a UOA done soon on my Castrol Edge 10w60 to see what information it provides!

Mainlube do an engine oil flush for those who are interested. Probably pricey though.

Squareznboxez: do you have any proof about your claims of what is and isn't a proper Group 4 oil?

BTW Liqui-Moly were asked why their 10w40 is only an SL not an SN certified oil on another forum recently, and have not as yet answered. One would hope its because it contains additional ZDDP or something along those lines!

[scotty nm35]

I don't understand why you guys are running such thick oils, are your engines built loose like a Cranbourne slapper?

A good read if you have the time...

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/90661-16-important-oil-questions-answered/

Understand an oil that thick will have issues draining back to the sump, even at track temps. No way I would be revving it high either with thick oil, probably half the reason rb oil pumps fail regularly. At 80 degrees oil temp you probably only need a 0w20 for a high rpm modern engine...

[ARTZ]

racepace and status both recomend edge 10-60 for ethanol..only reason I went with it..5-40 for your average daily should be more than sufficient

lol @ cranbourne slapper...

I use everyday repco oil flush if Im changing oils...its about 12$ and definately thins your oil for good drainage..only do it if i'm changing to a different oil though.put it in run it warm and drain...liquimoly stuff is over 20$ a bottle...more than i want to flush down the ...errm.....drain

[scotty nm35]

I only use a flush if I have cracked the engine, replacing heads or turbo's when im not sure everything is clean, or has had coolant through it. I always make sure to run a cheaper oil through afterwards and dump it within a few days. Perhaps i'm overly cautious?

[Booki]

Is there really need to run a engine flush after working on it? Most oil flush's just thin the shit out of your oil so you can get more out of your sump when you drain it. I'm definitely no expert, but i think its just a bit of a gimmick. If you change your oil regularly you should have no use for a engine oil flush product.

Most oils have detergents in them anyway to keep things clean.

The more I read about oil's, the more I get confused.

Edited November 30, 2012 by Booki

[ARTZ]

i like oil flushes,...are they necessary??..who knows but the way i see it it cant hurt...

That said i only use them when either changing to different oil or on my diesel ute on occasion. as iot was recomended by a mechanic as diesel oil tends to clog up.

when you use them I definately notice the oil drain quicker..

[dyl33]

Anyone used penrite premium ten 10w70 in there rb25det?

[JGTC]

in my opinion, for the most part oil flushes are ok - however there has been cases where they have caused engine damage via the dislodging of carbon on the pistons and seals causing leaks/smoke and the kind - i believe there is no real need for engine flushes - it can be detrimental on older cars like ours

if you are wanting to get the oil thin before a drain - take it for a short drive, bring up the oil to temperature - then with gloves carefully unbolt the sump plug and it will drain much easier hot. this is the most efficient way to drain oil

also alot of talk with using higher weight oils such as 10w-50/60/70 - if your motor is built and your tuner recommends it - fine carry on - however for the rest of us with standard motors/bolt ons - bear in mind that the larger the gap in hot and cold numbers, the more viscosity modifiers need to be used - this makes the oil less sheer stable (more prone to higher temps and less stable strength wise)

i like oil flushes,...are they necessary??..who knows but the way i see it it cant hurt...

That said i only use them when either changing to different oil or on my diesel ute on occasion. as iot was recomended by a mechanic as diesel oil tends to clog up.

when you use them I definately notice the oil drain quicker..

[scotty nm35]

Anyone used penrite premium ten 10w70 in there rb25det?

Lol, you obviously didn't click on the link.

Why don't you try some gear oil? Thicker oil won't save your engine, more likely it will cause damage, and certainly isn't recommended by Nissan.

[dyl33]

Lol, you obviously didn't click on the link.

Why don't you try some gear oil? Thicker oil won't save your engine, more likely it will cause damage, and certainly isn't recommended by Nissan.

Oh great. The autobarn dude insisted on it for rb25det, Last time I listen to there shit.

Should I get rid of it and re-do or will it be ok

[Booki]

Too thick IMO,change it out to a 10/5w-40

[JonnoHR31]

if you are wanting to get the oil thin before a drain - take it for a short drive, bring up the oil to temperature - then with gloves carefully unbolt the sump plug and it will drain much easier hot. this is the most efficient way to drain oil

Not really, sure the oils warmer but it's just been pumped around the engine, so there will still be oil draining from everywhere. If you drain it cold then all the oil that is ever going to drain is already sitting in the sump ready to drop. You gain nothing by doing it straight after a drive and probably end up draining less oil, not to mention the added worry of burning yourself.

Oh great. The autobarn dude insisted on it for rb25det, Last time I listen to there shit.

Should I get rid of it and re-do or will it be ok

Take it back and get a refund, if they crack the shits tell them they recommended you the wrong oil and demand your money back or an exchange. Something around 5w/40 is good as said.

Number 1 rule of owning a modified car is never listen to the opinion of anyone at an auto parts store, especially when it comes to oil and spark plugs!

[dyl33]

I changed to 10w40 today

Thing is I put the 10w70 in and drove about 150ks, Then started to think wtf did I just do. Should I still try for a refund lol

Edited December 1, 2012 by dyl33

[Booki]

I'm sure if you spin it well enough you could get a refund, What 10w 40 did you use?

[ARTZ]

Haha...I get it hot and run an oil flush... I will probably blow everything up.

[JGTC]

very few manufacturers are using 100% group IV PAO based oils nowadays

was reading internal report leaked about all Mobil1 oils being a mix of group III and group IV - with your likes of Nulon, Penrite, Castrol, Shell priced the same way and employing the same sort of marketing - i would definately put money that none of these brands employ pure Group IV base stocks

report from Mobil's internal source;

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1990677 - if anyone wants to nerd out on 20pgs of why Mobil1 has switched from group IV to a group III/IV blend

A natural evolution of the formulation

The Mobil 1 formulation strategy has always been based on selecting the best components available. We now have the very high quality Group III+ base stock, ‘Visom’ exclusively available to ExxonMobil. As we developed the Mobil 1 ESP technology we found that combining Visom with PAO could deliver a formulation of equivalent performance to an all PAO formulation.

Competitive advantage

Visom is the only non-PAO stock that can deliver the required performance to formulate a 0W grade oil that meets European OEM engine oil specifications. Visom is not available to our competition.

To support Mobil 1 growth

Global PAO capacity is limited. As we quickly approach this limit, new base stocks must be explored to ensure we can support the continued growth of the Mobil 1 family of products.

To ensure continuity of supply

As we saw with the 2005 hurricane, the more flexibility we have in our formulations, the better placed we are to withstand disruption to our supply. We can balance PAO and Visom supply fluctuations to ensure we can always deliver the final product to our customers.

To maintain market relevant pricing

As PAO supply has tightened globally, raw material costs have increased substantially. In the future, an exclusively PAO formulation may be priced out of the market or result in significant margin erosion.

To prepare for next generation basestocks (GTL)

Commencing 2010, the next generation of base stocks derived from Natural Gas (Gas To Liquids) will enter the market. These high quality basestocks will arrive in substantial quantities and will probably be used in the majority of competitive premium formulations. Visom is viewed as a precursor of GTL, and hence it’s use now in our flagship formulations eases our transition to a GTL world, and helps us understand how to maintain flagship performance using these high quality non-PAO basestocks.

to my knowledge the only group IV manufacturers are;

- Motul 8100 - Group IV / V blend

- Redline - Group IV / V blend

- Royal Purple - Group IV only

- Amsoil Signature Series - Group IV / V blend ( i think happy to be corrected by i'm pretty sure this is not 100% double-ester based oil

- Mobil Delvac 1 - AFAIK this is still a Group IV PAO based oil

all of these oils are close to $100 / 5L with the exception of Motul 8100 X-Cess and X-Max which are around $70-80

anyone who would rate GW Syn-X 6000 the same as the above oils which has been confirmed by GW themselves to be a Group III/IV blend is simply misinformed - is it a great oil for most applications? absolutely - but they are chalk and cheese in terms of the base materials, money and R&D put into the group IV and V oils

Squareznboxez: do you have any proof about your claims of what is and isn't a proper Group 4 oil?

Edited December 1, 2012 by squareznboxez