Jump to content
SAU Community

What's The Best Indoor Antena For My Hd Tv?


Recommended Posts

Hi all,

By now, everybody should have a HD TV. I'm having a little issue with the reception for my HD.

I've got a cheap indoor antena ($5) for now, it does an excellent job but it has got it's moments. Sometime i get really good reception and just when my fav TV show is on, reception died out. If i walk pass the TV, reception die. This is a major piss off and the LCD is too expensive to get smash up so i had to keep my cool by cuddling it, talk nicely to it, touch it softly..............almost kiss it AND STILL.

So, i'm now looking for a good indoor antena, i've heard of ones that has its power and everything. I did my reserach and found a few so i'm a little confuse of which to get. Just wondering if you guys has one and what's your experience with it? How much did you buy it and where?

Thanks

Its has built in HD.

We've got a roof antena but there isn't a line that runs to my room and i can't be ass doing it.

Lol westy, if you want good reception, make a line go to your room. Will take a whole hour if you know what your doing.

high def built in tuners into the TV and in door attennas usually suck dogs balls

they are cheap units with low power gain so the signal is poor

try a $5 pair of rabbit ears (no joke) and if its poo then get a high def set top box & rabbit ears

that will give you much better results with even a crap pair of rabbit ears

a high def set top box will be $100 ish

what sort of attena do you have

if you have an external roof attena its fine

but an indoor craptastic attena it wont have the pickup

west wanted a good indoor attena for his built in tuner

there arent any - thats the problem

There are various antennas on the market that have a dial to fine tune the reception, rabbit ears will work but will need tweeking via moving the ears the 4 points of the pole N/S/E/W and varying the heights of each and angle-signal moves throughout the day due to tv companies increase signal power for the signal drain when everyone is watching just like fm radio, I think vivitar do a dial adjustable antenna for indoor use, Go to Good Guys or Dick Smith and have a look. Another thing is dont use too many joiners and keep antenna away from power points and other power/speaker wires as they will pick up magnetic fields and create signal noise which will come through the picture :)

maybe i should wire it up to the car port frame or is that too Mcguyver!...ha

what do you guys think? I went through 2 of those fancy adjustable indoor antennas at dick smith with signal boosters and seperate power supply but they all sucked. In the end i just swapped it over for a 5buck rabbit ears which still isnt the best but was better than the other 2.

how does one run a secont antenna cable from the roof antenna?

I use a leadtek usb tuner/dongle with my laptop, perfect reception as long as the aerial is close to a window.

I just run an aerial extension cable. (good quality shielded coax not cheap $3.95 cable from kmart)

All i need is the hd aerial that came with it, see the pic i've downloaded from the website.

Mine isnt this exact one, but flat and square about 3cm * 3cm and 0.5cm thick.

I've tested with rabbit ear aerial, they also work fine as long as close to a window.

post-38314-1214632694_thumb.jpg

Edited by Stagea_Neo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...