Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

The key for the JDM 350GT Coupe are a transponder type and are coded to the cars main ECU.

There is an amplifier near the ignition switch which picks up a coded radio signal from the key. If the code matches the code in the ECU the engine will start.

You can demonstrate this by having a flat key cut and inserting it into the ignition switch. When you turn it the engine will turn over but not start as the ECU won't switch on the engine management system. If you then hold your real key by the switch and then turn the engine over it will start.

This is a very secure system but it does mean the keys are very expensive. You need to give the Nissan dealer your chassis number and model code from the plate in the engine bay and they can order the key for you. Nissan Japan holds the information on the key type.

You then get the key cut to match your original key and take all your keys and the car to the dealer and they will reprogram all the keys to work. If you don't take all the keys the key you didn't take will no longer work because reprogramming erases the previous codes.

If you only have one key do not lose it as the only way to get your car to go then will be to by a new ECU and keys.

My new key cost me $650 here in Auckland and the programming cost $50. It's a hell of a lot cheaper than an ECU so it is worth doing.

I would be very careful about buying keys from any other source as it could be expensive in the long run.

This security system is very similar to what Kawasaki uses for their imobilizer equipped motorcycles and it is very hard to defeat but expensive if all keys are lost.

Regards

Wayne

Edited by Wayne NZ
Hi,

The key for the JDM 350GT Coupe are a transponder type and are coded to the cars main ECU.

There is an amplifier near the ignition switch which picks up a coded radio signal from the key. If the code matches the code in the ECU the engine will start.

You can demonstrate this by having a flat key cut and inserting it into the ignition switch. When you turn it the engine will turn over but not start as the ECU won't switch on the engine management system. If you then hold your real key by the switch and then turn the engine over it will start.

This is a very secure system but it does mean the keys are very expensive. You need to give the Nissan dealer your chassis number and model code from the plate in the engine bay and they can order the key for you. Nissan Japan holds the information on the key type.

You then get the key cut to match your original key and take all your keys and the car to the dealer and they will reprogram all the keys to work. If you don't take all the keys the key you didn't take will no longer work because reprogramming erases the previous codes.

If you only have one key do not lose it as the only way to get your car to go then will be to by a new ECU and keys.

My new key cost me $650 here in Auckland and the programming cost $50. It's a hell of a lot cheaper than an ECU so it is worth doing.

I would be very careful about buying keys from any other source as it could be expensive in the long run.

This security system is very similar to what Kawasaki uses for their imobilizer equipped motorcycles and it is very hard to defeat but expensive if all keys are lost.

Regards

Wayne

great, practical info there mate...thankyou.

But how does the RED valet key work?...is there also a 'radio circuit' (minus the controls) of sorts in them too?

(Soz if this has already been answered)

great, practical info there mate...thankyou.

But how does the RED valet key work?...is there also a 'radio circuit' (minus the controls) of sorts in them too?

(Soz if this has already been answered)

I don't know with those. I did not get one with this car.

Wayne

same idea as the remote style key. both have transponder chips in them both are programmed to the car.

Thanx Chris.....so it's the same as the black keys....minus the magical buttons!

Thought that was the case...thanx buddy!

Spit.....still waving the CR banner.

I have experience in that side of it. my van runs the same setup. it was sold with two plain keys and I added a remote one to it,

no need to wave flags :D

I just work on these things...

I have experience in that side of it. my van runs the same setup. it was sold with two plain keys and I added a remote one to it,

no need to wave flags :D

I just work on these things...

cool, thanks man.

Can you believe that I've still got the original Jap battery in my car....I managed to find the date stamp!...(but could not read the CCA rating of this battery.)

(sorry for digressing, just thought you'd be interested in that!).....I managed to track down a 330CCA with correct power-pole postion and size, ..I reckon that will be ok for my v35...would you agree Chris?

Spit.....now waving the 'wave no-banners' banner.

  • 1 month later...
2001 HV35 didnt have it. 2003 PV35 and CPV35 did have it.

Chris, for those who does not have the NATS, would Nissan still be the only means to get a spare remote (for door lock/unlock & boot, no key)?

Does that mean that the G35 remotes available on ebay motors could be usable in V35 that does not have NATS? .. like this ones

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/_Car-Truck-Par...QQ_fxdZ1?_rdc=1

to be honest I would look more at a GQ patrol key. I put a price up on one of those in the car audio section.

if you have a chassis number I'll look up a replacement key for you and give you the part number

to me its common sense :glare: they are different to everyone else for their market what makes you think they would sell a car that is the same as another market. hell the radios in these things differ widely from USDM -> JDM. (says he thats trying to crack the 2005+ versions..)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
correct. I should really write a FAQ for all this stuff..

Hi,

I finally got my act together and got a spare key programmed for my 2004 V35 and it works fine. I purchased the key from Nissan spares using the chassis number ($141) had it cut ($20) and then had it programmed by the Nissan service dept at Gosford NSW ($30). I used the pin that I got from TomR33 and from Nissan Japan which were identical and the programming took 5 minutes. Quite an easy task.

Hi,

I finally got my act together and got a spare key programmed for my 2004 V35 and it works fine. I purchased the key from Nissan spares using the chassis number ($141) had it cut ($20) and then had it programmed by the Nissan service dept at Gosford NSW ($30). I used the pin that I got from TomR33 and from Nissan Japan which were identical and the programming took 5 minutes. Quite an easy task.

when y say 141 is it standard catalogue $ amount for spare key or does that differ from dealer to dealer

which email of nissan japan did u sent to? Mind telling me? i need a spare key desperately.. thzz

Hi,

I finally got my act together and got a spare key programmed for my 2004 V35 and it works fine. I purchased the key from Nissan spares using the chassis number ($141) had it cut ($20) and then had it programmed by the Nissan service dept at Gosford NSW ($30). I used the pin that I got from TomR33 and from Nissan Japan which were identical and the programming took 5 minutes. Quite an easy task.

which email of nissan japan did u sent to? Mind telling me? i need a spare key desperately.. thzz

I don't know if $141 was the standard price but I know locksmiths charge $110 - 130 for transponder keys but their programming instruments do not recognise Nissan keys. The email to nissan japan for the code is: [email protected] but TomR33 can also give it to you. Check the previous posts in this thread. Good luck

I don't know if $141 was the standard price but I know locksmiths charge $110 - 130 for transponder keys but their programming instruments do not recognise Nissan keys. The email to nissan japan for the code is: [email protected] but TomR33 can also give it to you. Check the previous posts in this thread. Good luck

did read the tread, but not sure if TomR33 still available for providing the help..

but still pmed him..

thz for the nissan jap email, i missed that somehow :)

mayb will try to get a switch blade key when i got the pin code :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...