Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

made my girl drive my 300hp s13 silvia at ahg race training day

and scared the shit out of her every time it came on boost

so she ended up driving around in 3rd gear really low

in revs (sort of defeats the purpose).

she realised that she didnt want to drive my car

ever again> :D

seeing as my girlfriend's still on her L's learing on a toyota echo, somehow i dont think it's a goog idea to put her in charge of an r33 gtst with 280rwkw :D

Never thought that "L" plates did that much for a cool looking R33 anyway

Good One

i work with this girl and we got talking one day and i mentioned that i drive a skyline, turns out her old man use to own a 40th aniversairy edition skyline and that is what she learnt to drive on when she was on her L's. so it depends... if she was my girlfriends then yes i would let her drive it.

but it depends on the person. i let my mum drive my car she loved it.

there are some advantages to letting your girlfriend/partner/wife drive ya skyline...for example she has a better driving record than me, 2, she can do a lap of manfield and pukekohe racetracks with half a second of me, her insurance is cheaper than mine and can do a qauter mile that would rival most guys i know.......plus i need some one to race the gts4 cause there arent many cars in my area that are competitive.... but best of all she can make my mates still reach for the holy shit handle all whilst doing the grocery shopping

you are all soft (except the two posts above)...let the girls drive...most are quite good drivers. Stace had never driven a high powered car before she met me and now has a National drag racing title and a couple of national records to her name.

Very satisfying seeing her beat the fellas at the track.

Edited by DiRTgarage
never in a million years done it once didnt end up nice really it ended up guuter wit blown tyre ;)

Your crap punctuation made your post funnier lol :D

But for shizzle i agree, I let a chick drive my car when i first got it. Ended up sitting on a median strip, stalled, with cars coming at us from both directions.

The back seat didn't get stained that night :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...