Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

anyone in syd who can do this setup for a reasonable price.

im undecided weather im going to put mine on or not (probably selling my car in around 6 months) if i decide not to i will pm you.

brett, where did you get it done at & how much did it cost you?

its sorta useless tho coz ur in vic so no point in asking really lol

I bought it off here, here is the ad http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ex...an-t229664.html

im undecided weather im going to put mine on or not (probably selling my car in around 6 months) if i decide not to i will pm you.

hi mate i need one of these or someone will weld it for me but i need a t4 flange can some one tell me where to go to be done ,i live in bayswater victoria

w0rped, if your willing to sell it

ill take it for $150 + delivery

or send it to me

and ill send you my stock one.

Cheers

When i decide i will let you know, may be a while though so keep looking for someone to weld yours, any good welding shop should be able to do it.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Its the amount of flow the standard Exhaust manifold has.

most people have only ever been able to get around 300rwkw on the standard one. there have been a few that have made over that by around 30 or so kws.

Brett,

I have a highmount SS manifold if you want it. 38mm gate flange.

$150 Delivered :santa:

Im trying to keep mine looking as standard as possible, the external isnt exactly stock looking but its not as obvious as a high mount either, im sure it will sell quickly though at that price.

  • 4 months later...
  • 11 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Hi guys,

There seem to be a few qualified and apprentice boiler makers and such floating around in here so i figure someone would know someone who can cut a hole into my stock manifold and weld on a bit of steam pipe properly so it won't crack up once it see's the track.

I have ongoing boost control issues with the internal gate 3071 and just can't be stuffed (and cant really afford) to redo all the piping again as well as shell out for a decent steam pipe manifold and gate.

cheers

Dave.............

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...