Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

** Ok I searched already. All the stuff on this forum regarding oil change is for the R33.. I'm going to have a lackey (friend) handy on sat so I can make him do the photo taking. Thus I can write up a proper guide specific to the R32 GTST.

I want to change my oil and oil filter this weekend for my RB20DET R32 skyline. This is going to be the first time i've ever done an oil change. Need a few questions answered before I start. They will be general questions, as i'm following Sciby's R33 oil change guide as a general guideline.

1. What is the general oil capacity for the RB20DET?

2. What type of oil filter is needed for the RB20DET? Brand recommendations?

3. Any tips on reaching the oil filter in the stock position? (looks like a hard to reach place.. plus looks like i'll be getting engine oil all over that area)

4. Any other handy tips before i start?

Cheers, if I successfully get it done i'll post a proper guide with pictures by next week. Ben.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227340-r32-gtst-oil-change-help/
Share on other sites

should be exactly the same as the r33. buy 5L of oil and leave .5-.8 in the bottle. filter is probably z145a or equivalent

get an oil filter wrench from your local shop if you cant budge the filter. you will get oil there, but if you get a big enough oil pan, you can cover that area and the sump plug easily so theres no need to spill it.

open the sump plug, and watch the oil run out. when it slows down a lot/finishes, take the filter off, but there will still be oil in the filter. dont lose the sump plug or little washer. its not too bad a job have fun

also, make sure you drain the oil through the sump plug before removing the oil filter, to minimize oil spilling everywhere. the oil filter is easy enough to get to on the 32 from the top, try unscrew it with you hands first, if its on tight and you need an oil filter wrench thats when it can get fiddley.

the oil filter will still be full of oil, so once you unscrew it try to tip it upright so it doesnt spill everywhere. and before you put the new oil filter on, dip your finger in some of the oil and put a smear of it around the oil filter seal.

yeah, around that. keep in mind that you dont check the oil level as soon as you tip the oil in, you have to wait a minute or so for it to settle in the sump to get a correct level reading.
(if you fit a new filter) You have to run the engine first, so that you fill the filter before checking the level.

Also, make sure the 'O' ring comes off with the old filter. And the new 'O' ring doesn't have any little nicks in it.

May sound crazy but to prevent oil from spilling everywhere when I take my filter off I use an old 2L ice cream container and put it right under the filter. Once the filter is off you can squash the container enough to pull both the container and the filter in it through the top past the manifold. It prevents any oil from spilling anywhere. I do however have skinny arms so this may make it easier for me.

I also loosen the oil cap before removing the sump plug, as it lets the oil drain easier.

Good luck with your first oil change

Drain old oil and remove filter. Fit new oil filter. Replace sump plug (preferably with new copper washer). Add 3 litres of oil initially so you can start it up. Wait for the oil pressure light to go out, this basically means oil filter and everything else is full of oil and upto pressure. Switch engine off. Wait 10 seconds and check oil level. Keep topping up until you reach the full mark (not necessary to start it again). As a general guide i have found on most cars that between the 'L' and 'H' marks on the dipstick is about 1 litre.

I have done this 100's of times at work so its tried and tested! :D

Good luck with it mate :)

Deren

BTW: make sure you check the oil level on a level ground.

Edited by Godzilla32
  • 4 years later...

1. What is the general oil capacity for the RB20DET?

I empty a 5L bottle into the engine, haven't had any issues. A bit of overfill is fine.

2. What type of oil filter is needed for the RB20DET? Brand recommendations?

Z145a, I use Z442 on the GT-R as it's smaller hence easier to put on. I use Ryco as it's readily available. Get Nissan ones if you want. Don't bother with more expensive (e.g. K&N) ones.

3. Any tips on reaching the oil filter in the stock position? (looks like a hard to reach place.. plus looks like i'll be getting engine oil all over that area)
You can degrease the area afterwards.


4. Any other handy tips before i start?

If it's the first oil change, if you're changing weights/type/brands, use engine flush (put flush in, idle car for 5 minutes or so, dump oil while still warm.)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...