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Oil Change Sanity Check


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Hey guys,

Well, it's 5,000 after my I bought my Skyline so time to change the oil. (and yes, I should have done it as soon as I bought it, I know...) I haven't had a Skyline before, and my previous two cars have been a magna and a HQ, so I'm used to something that I can just do whatever to and it'll be fine. So if you can bear with me and offer any helpful comments that'd be great!

So Saturday morning was spent reading through the 42 pages of the 'good oil' DIY thread, and the oil change tutorial and whilst I then had a good idea as to how to do it and how much things cost, not so much on what oil was a definite answer to run with.

I've got a stock R33 Series 2 GTS-T, with 93,000 on the clock, so I decided against any 0w oil, and bought 5ltr of Motul 8100 5w40. The general consenus on the oil thread seemed to be running at either a 0w or a 5w oil, but 0w sounded a little too thin. The autobahn assistant recommended a 10w for it, but I thought that may be a little too heavy, so went with the 5w. So, question to you guys is, what do you run in yours?

The oil that was in it from the shop was a lot thicker than the oil that I put in. I've always had the feeling that the motor wasn't as responsive as it should be and that it was being restrained under acceleration, where as after I put the 5w oil in, the difference is amazing. The engine feels so much smoother and more responsive than it did before, a blip of the throttle results with an instant rev, as opposed to a slightly delayed and sluggish rev. So it feels like it was a good choice. However now I can hear some noise from the tappets that I didn't notice before, it's only when you've got your head in the engine bay can you hear it, it's not so loud that you hear it with the bonnet down, but is this normal for an engine of this age?

Currently oil pressure at idle is a bit over the 2kg/mm^2 mark, and sits at dead horizontal at about 70/80kmh so at about 4kg/mm^2, are these normal values?

Thanks in advance for any help guys, oh, and also, does anyone know any places to recommend/avoid for my 100,000 service? And a idea of the cost?

Cheers,

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i used mobil 1 but now i'm using nulon 10/40 i think! both are fully synthetic and i like the nulon because it's quiet!

but if you're looking for someone to do the 100k service there are some people who can do it on here but if you want a workshop go to boostworx!

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Prob sticky/ noisy lifters which is nothing to really worry about or ^^^ what he said. Where about's in the engine bay is it coming from? low/ high/ front/ rear?

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Royal Purple 10w 40! Good Stuff :laugh: Used to have a slight tapping noise with the Mobil 1 0w 40 but has seemed to quieten down a bit since the new gear has gone in. Has just been changed so i'll let you know if it comes back after 5,000km's.

Edited by SLEEPR85
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i am going to be doing my oil change and all this weekend and i always use fully synthetic 10w 40 specially this time of the year....

your tappet noise theory could be the tappets or injectors as steve said......get a mechanic that knows his stuff to check it out

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Quiet oil?

Thick oil is quieter, an old trick to use when selling a car with an old motor was to use the thickest oil possible to reduce smoke and quieten tappets and assorted noises.

A bannana skin or stocking in the diff made it quieter.

A raw egg in the radiator fixed leaks or (or ground pepper to fix a cracked head)

A quick steam clean to hide the old leaks and you can ask an additional 1k for the car.

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Thick oil is quieter, an old trick to use when selling a car with an old motor was to use the thickest oil possible to reduce smoke and quieten tappets and assorted noises.

A bannana skin or stocking in the diff made it quieter.

A raw egg in the radiator fixed leaks or (or ground pepper to fix a cracked head)

A quick steam clean to hide the old leaks and you can ask an additional 1k for the car.

So how is it you know these things? :laugh: Haven't been a used car salesman in the past?

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So how is it you know these things? :( Haven't been a used car salesman in the past?

You spend time in workshops and you come accross all sorts of things.

Some of the fixes above are also useful for the bush mechanic, when parts aren't available you have to improvise. I can also fix a flat tyre with spinifex, and recharge a battery with urine. :)

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Well I can add 10kW with a sticker! :(

I've always used Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40 to good effect.

Which reminds me, I need to do an oil change on it...

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great choice in oil buddy 8100 is good! ive ran a few before fuchs/torco dont notice a big difference really but i run motul fluids throughout!

while car is running grab a large screwdriver put the handle to your ear and then touch the other end ontop of engine (like on the cam cover then on the inj rail) slowly move around this will allow you to find the ticking noise easier

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Thanks for the replies guys, I'm just concerned that the oil that I've got in there is too thin. But the engine seems to be loving it as it revs so much easier and is much more responsive.

The ticking noise seems to be coming from the underneath the valve cover which is why I was thinking it was from the valve train. I didn't notice it before which is why I was thinking it was the oil.

What're the standard oil pressures that the car should be operating at? My seems to sit on over 2kg/cm^2 at Idle and up around 4 when driving, (however yesterday afternoon it was idleing below two, and only just over when driving, which had me very worried, however it's still full of oil and hasn't done that since.. so I've got no idea what it was doing then...)

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Thick oil is quieter, an old trick to use when selling a car with an old motor was to use the thickest oil possible to reduce smoke and quieten tappets and assorted noises.

A bannana skin or stocking in the diff made it quieter.

A raw egg in the radiator fixed leaks or (or ground pepper to fix a cracked head)

A quick steam clean to hide the old leaks and you can ask an additional 1k for the car.

hmmm, eggs, bananas, & pepper.........sounds like a good recipe for a protein shake.

Save you the trouble though, just run 80W90 in the sump.......that'll eventually make the engine so quiet that you won't hear it.....only the sound of wind & smell of diesel from the flat bed truck you & your car are sitting on, lol

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i use motul 300v 15w50, i use thicker oil because i have a rebuilt rb25 with forged pistons.

my oil pressure sits on 2 bar at idle too, & i also get a fair bit of tappet noise. the tappet noise started after the engine build and only occurs on idle when fully warmed up. its something i would like to get fixed at some point, although im not sure what would be involved?

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