Jump to content
SAU Community

Tarmac Rallying Perpetual Thread

Marlin

By Marlin,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Duncan
Duncan

Good luck tomorrow Liam....hope you can hold onto the spot!

Bazil_1
Bazil_1

Wooo! Thanks Duncan. Still can't believe we did it. Managed 6th outright too which I'm amazed with. I'll post up some videos tomorrow. Time to party now...

Kel
Kel

Forget Red Bull - turns out it's the Cygnet stage that gives you wings

Posted Images

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

I reckon ric shaws RX7 is a pretty mean piece of gear for $40K. I'd rather that over the emo X for $70K. sure it may not be as fast in the hands of a mortal as the emo would be but the RX7 is way more fun and looks to be pretty well set-up over the years. you get a lot of car for $40K.... the 3 way adjustable proflex aren't cheap, nice cage, big PMU brake set-up, close ratio box, lots of nice bits. and after all Ric has done pretty well steering it (he can drive though too).

Darkside Community Regular

Darkside

Posted
Posted

^^^^^ Hearing you. Was seriously tempted by an FD prior to getting the TME. Had this discussion with Snowy. We were both really tempted by a RWD car that really needed to be driven as opposed to the slightly boring AWD platforms. A mate ended up getting one and I have punted it round a bit. Was totally blown away by how neutral they are and how well they put power down out of corners....even with a T04Z and E85 pumping out over 400HP at the rears. I can see how they do well in tarmac rally in the right hands. Is definately a car still on the to do list. Have a soft spot for rotors. Ric's car ceratinly seems to be a "drive away no more to pay" prospect as a good track/targa car. From my limited tarmac rally experience, suspension is where I woudl have spent more money. Cant go too far wrong with 3 way adjustable proflex.

Darkside Community Regular

Darkside

Posted
Posted

turbos must run standard boost which in an evo X is 1.6 bar.

EMO's do love the boost and run surprisingly high factory boost settings. I am not sure what you men by absolute pressure Stephen, but yeah, they do run 1.6 bar boost above atmospheric or 260kpa total boost. Big differnce fom the old rexies running about 1 bar stock.

Re some of the quoted power figures, I know TMR seem to be big fans of quoting "flywheel" power figures. Either way, they dont seem to be short on power.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

^^^^^ Hearing you. Was seriously tempted by an FD prior to getting the TME. Had this discussion with Snowy. We were both really tempted by a RWD car that really needed to be driven as opposed to the slightly boring AWD platforms. A mate ended up getting one and I have punted it round a bit. Was totally blown away by how neutral they are and how well they put power down out of corners....even with a T04Z and E85 pumping out over 400HP at the rears. I can see how they do well in tarmac rally in the right hands. Is definately a car still on the to do list. Have a soft spot for rotors. Ric's car ceratinly seems to be a "drive away no more to pay" prospect as a good track/targa car. From my limited tarmac rally experience, suspension is where I woudl have spent more money. Cant go too far wrong with 3 way adjustable proflex.

yeah I had a nice little RX7, RZ model with some good gear. nothing facy, bilsteins, 250rwkw and an ear splitting exhaust (can kevlar seats etc) and they are a lovely handling car. so easy to balance on the throttle, they make a mundane driver look like fangio. you could get it wound up in 2nd, pull 3rd and it would just hang sideways and still hold a nice line with just a bit of work on the throttle. something like Rics with the proflex etc would be a dream, like you say they are capable in the right hands and still fun to drive in the 'wrong' hands. haha.

any of the front running cars seem to spend the $ for big buck suspension, be it MCA/proflex, or $40K ohlins, or penske, or sachs or whatever. most of our aus guys go with the proflex though and they seem to stack up pretty well against gear that is double the price, and having murray local to give advise and set-up is pretty handy.

I wouldn't really say the evo's are boring. they are stupid fast for their 'basic' spec sheet but they still need to be driven hard to get somewhere.

Darkside Community Regular

Darkside

Posted
Posted

^^^ Yeah,

I rate the older evos. I had an 8 MR and it was very dull. With the active centre diff and the AYC rear, you were really left wonering if it was you catching the slides etc or the tricky diffs.. made you pretty lazy as you could get away with really slack driving....go in too hot, keep it buried and pointing where you wanted to go, and the computers worked out the rest. Some mech diffs might have made a change. The TME is tops. All mech diffs with only ABS as electronic talent. (I guess like your RS) Makes for a reasonably raw driving experience. And as you say, they respond well to basic mods amd are pretty robust.

Running DMS 50's on mine which I am happy with, but had I looked into it more, I may have opted for MCA or Reiger or something gucci like that. It took stages like Pelverata and Longley to appreciate that. :)

t01-100 Mentor

t01-100

Posted
Posted

don't forget an fd on e85 in targa spec would give you anywhere from 265-285rwkw (depending how brave you are!) the the bonus of a 1116kg minimum weight... if you could get one that low.

the purple 33 'ill work well with your eye shaddow benny... should i dust off the rx-8?

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

so does it spike to 1.6 bar at 4k and the racers just then run teh 1.6bar to redline as opposed to the real road cars?

exactly correct. I understand it is as low as 1bar at redline but production cars only cares about maximum boost.

targa out of control

i like it

how long tll it goes back to production racing?

presumably a death or 2. I have no idea why the regs are making faster cars over years. bigger tyres, larger exhaust, free injectors etc etc are just making the crashes harder when they happen.

what is the top speed on stage of the lambo?

sav man Grand Master

sav man

Posted
Posted

exactly correct. I understand it is as low as 1bar at redline but production cars only cares about maximum boost.

presumably a death or 2. I have no idea why the regs are making faster cars over years. bigger tyres, larger exhaust, free injectors etc etc are just making the crashes harder when they happen.

what is the top speed on stage of the lambo?

The cars in the mid to late 90's were more modified than now. Richards red turbo was a rocket, i remember him winging about losing 70kw and gaining 140kg when the regs were changed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...