Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes it will. there is a ticket open on the feature/bug tracker to add ability to save the trip statistics. it would probably be a third screen (so 2 trip ones, one showing current trip, and one showing all trips) that shows your total recorded trips.

reason why it hasnt been done yet is that trip data would need to be saved to EEPROM, which only can be written to a limited number of times, and the display doesnt know when you will turn off the car. so need to do some tricky wear levelling to spread the writes to EEPROM out over the fully spare eeprom, and to only update the trip data every say 30s.

but yeh i really want this feature myself too so will try to get it done when this first batch is sold and i have time to work on it.

Would it be better to get that mini-SD port going...? Data logging? :P

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Got my display a week or so ago, installation couldn't have been easier. The information you can access with this little unit is extremely useful - thanks Peter, my Stag' now has what it has always lacked - a tripmeter! Now my mate with the R31 Silhouette can't say his has more features...

nothin yet for the microsd, dont expect anything too soon for it, a few more things will come first (hopefully saving trip meter onto a global trip stats screen or similar).

Cool ;) Will be watching with interest... fantastic little unit.

BTW, can anyone confirm: is 380cc correct injector size for series 2 stagea (R34 RB25DET)?

Some sites say 370cc some say 380cc, but you will still need to calibrate it as there will be a +/- factor. Ive been waiting until I do a long trip, fill tank, reset trip, drive, fill tank again and check fuel used against fuel pumped in, assuming the bowser is correct. The longer the trip/more fuel used the higher the accuracy will be, or even do over several long trips, noting fuel used/fuel pumped for each. i wouldnt measure it over many short trips as the probability of error will be increased. Do some quick maths and adjust the injectors accordingly. About as accurate as we can get outside laboratory conditions, temp/bowser calibration etc.

right on the money. and make sure the display is on one of the two main screens nearly all the time (eg if u go to main menu it stops recording fuel consumption etc until you go back to main screen).

this will be made easier once i do the global trip meter statistics stuff so it saves stats from each session so u have total fuel used etc. until then you need to rely on a full trip with filling up both sides and dont shut the car off (or write down fuel used before you do) on the way

Just thought I would ask, in your next version, since you have MPG, can you include KM/L in the trip stats ? as this is my preferred econ format. thanks

sign up and add it to the bug/feature tracker on the site...but i dont think itd be high priority...its like yanks asking for GPM, who uses that?! :(

Some sites say 370cc some say 380cc, but you will still need to calibrate it as there will be a +/- factor. Ive been waiting until I do a long trip, fill tank, reset trip, drive, fill tank again and check fuel used against fuel pumped in, assuming the bowser is correct. The longer the trip/more fuel used the higher the accuracy will be, or even do over several long trips, noting fuel used/fuel pumped for each. i wouldnt measure it over many short trips as the probability of error will be increased. Do some quick maths and adjust the injectors accordingly. About as accurate as we can get outside laboratory conditions, temp/bowser calibration etc.

Cool, good idea. Will be doing one of those shortly... to Victoria

sign up and add it to the bug/feature tracker on the site...but i dont think itd be high priority...its like yanks asking for GPM, who uses that?! :(

lol :laughing-smiley-014:

ok so ive been working on microsd logging this weekend (theres stuff i should do first, but oh well!) and theres good and bad news.

good news is ive got extremely simple reading and writing going (as in write 80 numbers and read them back), so its possible.

bad news is that i could only get it to work by adding a resistor to fix a too high voltage going to the card. see attachment. if you cant solder then you could probably even just mechanically attach the resistor (being careful to only attach to specified contacts) by winding legs around the existing component legs and then cutting short.

and the writing wont write in fat file format so u wont be able to use your card outside of the display without reformating it. you'd download logs with the usb port and some form of downloading program i gather.

for read/write speed, its about 30KB/s (512 bytes in 15ms), which should hopefully be enough (thats at 100% of the cpu's time, which wouldnt leave time for anything else. but we only need ~5KB/s so should be ok)

post-4553-1220189118_thumb.jpg

I bought your consult cable, which works a treat. Have you ever thought of doing similar to this for the wrx's? I own an my03 as well and would do dirty deeds to have the same capabilities with it..

ok so ive been working on microsd logging this weekend (theres stuff i should do first, but oh well!) and theres good and bad news.

good news is ive got extremely simple reading and writing going (as in write 80 numbers and read them back), so its possible.

bad news is that i could only get it to work by adding a resistor to fix a too high voltage going to the card. see attachment. if you cant solder then you could probably even just mechanically attach the resistor (being careful to only attach to specified contacts) by winding legs around the existing component legs and then cutting short.

and the writing wont write in fat file format so u wont be able to use your card outside of the display without reformating it. you'd download logs with the usb port and some form of downloading program i gather.

for read/write speed, its about 30KB/s (512 bytes in 15ms), which should hopefully be enough (thats at 100% of the cpu's time, which wouldnt leave time for anything else. but we only need ~5KB/s so should be ok)

post-4553-1220189118_thumb.jpg

Easy done! :P

Edited by wisey18
I bought your consult cable, which works a treat. Have you ever thought of doing similar to this for the wrx's? I own an my03 as well and would do dirty deeds to have the same capabilities with it..

for $300 theres the subdatascan s2 (google), although its only got data display/peak values (and rs232 passthru) so naturally not as awesome as mine, but being newer tech the subarus have some nifty data available like boost, intake temp, ignition retard (level of knock?). and of course you guys with OBDII have all the OBDII stuff like scangauge so you're all set!

i have my eyes on getting maybe a 03+ wrx in a few years, doubt ill be making anything non-nissan until then.

Did some highway driving over the last few days (about 2,000Ks), without cruise-control (so speed was not exactly perfectly constant) plus overtaking etc. and I noticed that the average trip speed would sit at 110km/hour... which seemed too exact? Does the unit show average speeds above 110?

Edited by DaveB

im not aware of any reason why it wouldnt...do you think you should have averaged higher? (i havent driven far enough to get past more than about 100 or so average due to slower local roads etc).

fyi the reset on options menu can be used to do the same as unplugging/replugging in display (it doesnt reset saved data/settings). so perhaps if you have someone that can reset the display once you're above 110km/h and see that it is averaging correctly.

also a good writeup on microsd resistor mod (that ive emailed everyone about) for those who are at id less than 65 on the list:

http://forum.pulsar.org.au/showthread.php?t=79971

  • 2 weeks later...

v2.01 firmware is now available on firmware page. has sequential and random speed tests for microsd cards (and capacity/info as per 2.01 beta), no actual logging yet, but you can test out microsd cards you may wish to use for logging.

note, as the lcd will tell you, you'll lose any existing data on the card if you do the speed test.

if ur going to use a card, buy one just for this, because it wont be windows/pc readable, and to read data off it you wont remove it, but use the usb cable and some program ive yet to write to download the logs.

there is a howto guide for those of you (displays sent out before september 3 - i.e. id 1-64 on the list) who need to do the resistor mod here. those people ive contacted via email a couple weeks ago

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. Probably, given that there is only access from the bottom end of it, go with a drill bit. Don't start too small. 7 or 8mm is probably the right size. You want something that can make a big enough hole to do some damage, but not so bit that it clashes with the steel or binds up and breaks your wrist. A slow speed is probably a good idea too. Once the rubber is destroyed, you then have to get the crush tube off the stud, which will be the whole heat/oil/cutting exercise all over again, but this time with the need to strictly avoid damaging the stud (any further than the corrosion might already have done.
    • We replaced the connector just because we could and it was still there, once we swapped the injectors around it stopped. The injectors were something I had thoughts of replacing even before I first started the engine and in hindsight I should have 
    • Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
×
×
  • Create New...