Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

wooahhhh thats insane man. what gear does it finish 400m in ?

lol! You certainly would if i was riding it, i can only manage mid 11's. The thing is capable of 9's if you have the balls to do it though!
hehehee cool mate.. ive never tuned a car in Europe by remote controlling the laptop in the car over a mobile phone connection. It will be interesting! I am looking forward to it :huh: Our test run last night worked smoothly so it should work fine.

To the race track you go :)

I took a screen shot from our little test run.

post-1240-1216864150_thumb.jpg

I was a big street racer back in the day, i used to be known for my launch abilities being able to out launch WRX's in my skyline (Poor clutch) but that was a long time ago and have grown up a bit since then :)

I have had about a total of 10 runs on the track, 2 back in 2001 in my old fj20 datto and 3 years ago i had about 4 runs in my skyline with 200hp less at the wheels, and the 3 runs i have had last weekend.

So i am not experienced on the track, the drag radials would not turn, i even had the launch controll spooling 3psi off boost on the line at 5500 rpm and droped the clutch and it would STILL BOG DOWN!!!!

If i had of had another go i would have dropped it at 6500rpm :) and i might have got a 10 but i broke out :blink:

Mate first i dont wanna belive that and was looking at monitor with wide open eyes :) tuning remotly hehe :))

Regarding you drag what tires you were using or do you often make runs on 400 meter because changing gears and aspecialy first gear decides how you run quarter, my car have just 335 at rears and my best run was 12.335.... anyway congratulations again and see you on suterday:) then i will make post here of our results :)

thanks again mate!

approx wheight for gtst with driver is 1450 kg if drivers wheight is near 100 kilo :)

Edited by guricha
bout 1450 or 1550kgs with me in it. the 12.2 run was with a 2.4 60 foot, i had the launch controll set at 3500rpm which bogged down very hard and took a second before it took off

Robbie Ward who owns RIPS here in NZ who specialises in RB30's said his old Skyline used to spin up 4th gear from start on the burnout. Perhaps you need to do that? Your power levels arent too far off.

Ive been drag racing a few years now and my technique involves a nice big burnout and dropping the clutch at around 6500rpm. I think you will find your 60 foots will improve dramatically. Last time i raced i only had 180kws yet ran 1.6 60 foots. Tyres were the same ones as you have, running 10psi.

Try this and see how you go. Good luck

Cheers

Edited by SirRacer
Mate first i dont wanna belive that and was looking at monitor with wide open eyes :blink: tuning remotly hehe :huh:)

Regarding you drag what tires you were using or do you often make runs on 400 meter because changing gears and aspecialy first gear decides how you run quarter, my car have just 335 at rears and my best run was 12.335.... anyway congratulations again and see you on suterday:) then i will make post here of our results :)

thanks again mate!

approx wheight for gtst with driver is 1450 kg if drivers wheight is near 100 kilo :)

Hehhehee mate all i did in that session was setup your datalogit to log the air fuel ratios from your wide band, reduced the timing on the top end of your map 7deg overall so when your on boost it wont detonate anymore (cos you said it was detonating) incase you accidently floor it between now and satuday arvo lol

ohhh and just made sure everything was running ok throught your mobile phone internet connection so when you go to the track things can go through smoothly

we need a thread on this remote control tuning.

Once i do guricha car in Georgia i will post up some info about it

Remote tuning - this is new :))) Can I apply also ?

Possibly, if you can buy everything needed, i think guricha said it cost him about a grand to get setup with all the stuff he needed to be able to tune his car.

One thing that is needed is a 3g mobile connection with at least 20mb of available bandwidth to use for the time we are tuning, might even need more. SO doing this in Australia might be a bit far off because of the data plans offered to us are about 20 million times higher then whats available over seas it would be just easier to go to your local dyno shop and get a tune there.

Remember guricha comes from a country where there are NO tuners and NO dyno's. This started off as me just trying to help someone out because thats what i do :) if there is a demand for it i would be interested in doing more.

Ohhh also a race track would be good (or a good freeway) , the last thing i would want to see is the speed go from 150 to 0 in 1 second when doing a test run.

I know of a few people who've done idle tuning and what not over the net.

Basically setup wireless internet, and do a remote connection over that (The same way you do Guilt but without the phone net)

Obviously, that setup is only good for doing the idle and the low vacuum points (IE, open throttle up, and tune where the revs are sitting)

Hehhehee mate all i did in that session was setup your datalogit to log the air fuel ratios from your wide band, reduced the timing on the top end of your map 7deg overall so when your on boost it wont detonate anymore (cos you said it was detonating) incase you accidently floor it between now and satuday arvo lol

ohhh and just made sure everything was running ok throught your mobile phone internet connection so when you go to the track things can go through smoothly

Once i do guricha car in Georgia i will post up some info about it

Possibly, if you can buy everything needed, i think guricha said it cost him about a grand to get setup with all the stuff he needed to be able to tune his car.

One thing that is needed is a 3g mobile connection with at least 20mb of available bandwidth to use for the time we are tuning, might even need more. SO doing this in Australia might be a bit far off because of the data plans offered to us are about 20 million times higher then whats available over seas it would be just easier to go to your local dyno shop and get a tune there.

Remember guricha comes from a country where there are NO tuners and NO dyno's. This started off as me just trying to help someone out because thats what i do :thumbsup: if there is a demand for it i would be interested in doing more.

Ohhh also a race track would be good (or a good freeway) , the last thing i would want to see is the speed go from 150 to 0 in 1 second when doing a test run.

I didnot touch the car yet its parked at office and am not going to move it till sutterday:), when ignition is 0 car just simple not going in hight boost than i haveto move ignition on 6 degrees and it was ok detonation around 25 but with 100 octane gasoline, now am using 98 gasoline and detonations ware till 90 sometimes... if we can made and tune car on 16 or 17 psi it will be great and lets see what we can do anyway suterday early morning am going to track so i can runup there till 180 without problem, at the moment car has near 335 HP at rears so i will post all the details and pictures after tuning of pfc:)

do you have a power fc? if you do you need a datalogit

Where I live there are no dynos also ))) I got wideband, got laptop, got wireless CDMA card for wireless internet. What else do I need ?))) Damn, Guricha, u are a mastermind. How come I didn't think of that LOL

it was my idea.. i remote controll PC's all day for work :thumbsup:

Where I live there are no dynos also ))) I got wideband, got laptop, got wireless CDMA card for wireless internet. What else do I need ?))) Damn, Guricha, u are a mastermind. How come I didn't think of that LOL

lol talk about pressure.. I don't know how well its going to go yet lol

We will see tomorrow!

Should be just clicking into 4th :thumbsup:

This wireless tuning your doing is awesome! Keen to hear how it goes

Where I live there are no dynos also ))) I got wideband, got laptop, got wireless CDMA card for wireless internet. What else do I need ?))) Damn, Guricha, u are a mastermind. How come I didn't think of that LOL

Hi Mate :D all this tuning remotly was idea of Anthony:) firs i didnot belive that we can do anything but he made this:) tommorow am going to track and with anthony we will try to tune FC, so than i will post up results and pictures and give you all the details what you need:)

thanks again to Anthony :))) am going to stick your picture on my rides hood:))

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...