Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry to ask a question that’s been done to death, but after doing all the research I could I still can’t come up with a definitive answer about what type of oil I should be using.

This is my first car and I’ve only had it for about a month, so I’m about as uninformed as they come.

-My car is a pretty much stock R33 GTS25-t Sedan.

-It’s done just over 100,000 k and the engine seems to be in pretty decent condition.

-I don’t use it on tracks and rarely ever push it above 4000rpm

-I’m currently using it for 30k trips to & from work 5 days a week, other than that I mostly use it for quick 5-10 minute trips.

-I live in Perth, so the lowest the temp gets to here is about 1 or 2 degrees on a winter morning.

I was about to go and buy some Mobil 1 5w50 but a bit more reading told me that I’m probably better off with Mobil 1 0w40 or 10w30, seeing as I don’t use it on tracks or anything. If recommended I’m willing to fork out a bit more for some Royal Purple or something, but it apparently that would be slight overkill for how I use my car.

Any advice would be awesome. Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229471-another-which-oil-topic/
Share on other sites

from what I've been told by my mechanic whome I trust (unigroup) 10W40 is the right viscosity for a R34 GTT with 64k ... which is pretty similar to your car.

They reckon all the brand name fuss is a lot of nonsense and if you change the oil every 5000k it really doesn't matter which brand .. they use 'Hi-tec' which I believe is a local brand.

from what I've been told by my mechanic whome I trust (unigroup) 10W40 is the right viscosity for a R34 GTT with 64k ... which is pretty similar to your car.

They reckon all the brand name fuss is a lot of nonsense and if you change the oil every 5000k it really doesn't matter which brand .. they use 'Hi-tec' which I believe is a local brand.

I agree that if its for street driving (at low to mid rpm) cheap oil is an ok option as long as you are doing changes every 5k and no more! If you do ever decide you want to track it (or drive on the freeway in 2nd) don't go cheap on oil as you want something thats not going to break down at high engine temps.

I would say tho try and stick with fully synthetics and a 10w40 would be a quite adequate weight for street driving although i personally go 5w50 (mobil 1 fully synthetic) But i do use it on the track...i also over fill by about 500ml to try and stop potential starvation at high rpm/fast cornering.

Cheers

Cam

You won't go wrong with:

Brand - any name brand ie Mobil, Shell, Castrol, etc

Type - Full Synthetic

API rating - SJ (minimum, current is SM)

SAE (Grade): First digits (for starting) - 0W, 5W, 10W / Last Digits (for running) - 40

For a skyline ................Semi Synthetic is better than full synthetic....

Were are talking about motor that are 12yr +...............

Unless you have a forged motor

then we are talking different

Arrg so many differring recommendations/opinions. :blink:

I was sure that fully synthetic was definitely the way to go... but now i'm told semi-synthetic?

As for viscosity, I'm now looking at 10w40. Is that a good choice for an RB25DET engine that's gone 100,000k?

Arrg so many differring recommendations/opinions. :thumbsup:

it's simple, just use <your favourite brand here> oil.

seriously, any good quality full synthetic oil will do great. the minor differences are probably all in your head, the only consistent thing i notice is that the car seems to run nicer on FRESH oil.

Tried Motul, ELF, Nulon, Mobil 1 etc... the only thing better than any of these would be an oil that reverses the wear on your engine and that ain't happening! :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For these last 7 years of ownership, I've always had to use a small scissor jack under one of the front tow hooks to raise the front just enough so my low-profile jack fits under to reach my subframe jack point. I'm beginning to get annoyed of always having to do this. Are there any lower low-profile jacks that fit under the gtr lip on a dropped car?
    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
    • Here's an idea, answer the questions I asked you as they are trying to work out WHY the LSD will be binding up in a straight line.
×
×
  • Create New...