Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry to ask a question that’s been done to death, but after doing all the research I could I still can’t come up with a definitive answer about what type of oil I should be using.

This is my first car and I’ve only had it for about a month, so I’m about as uninformed as they come.

-My car is a pretty much stock R33 GTS25-t Sedan.

-It’s done just over 100,000 k and the engine seems to be in pretty decent condition.

-I don’t use it on tracks and rarely ever push it above 4000rpm

-I’m currently using it for 30k trips to & from work 5 days a week, other than that I mostly use it for quick 5-10 minute trips.

-I live in Perth, so the lowest the temp gets to here is about 1 or 2 degrees on a winter morning.

I was about to go and buy some Mobil 1 5w50 but a bit more reading told me that I’m probably better off with Mobil 1 0w40 or 10w30, seeing as I don’t use it on tracks or anything. If recommended I’m willing to fork out a bit more for some Royal Purple or something, but it apparently that would be slight overkill for how I use my car.

Any advice would be awesome. Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229471-another-which-oil-topic/
Share on other sites

from what I've been told by my mechanic whome I trust (unigroup) 10W40 is the right viscosity for a R34 GTT with 64k ... which is pretty similar to your car.

They reckon all the brand name fuss is a lot of nonsense and if you change the oil every 5000k it really doesn't matter which brand .. they use 'Hi-tec' which I believe is a local brand.

from what I've been told by my mechanic whome I trust (unigroup) 10W40 is the right viscosity for a R34 GTT with 64k ... which is pretty similar to your car.

They reckon all the brand name fuss is a lot of nonsense and if you change the oil every 5000k it really doesn't matter which brand .. they use 'Hi-tec' which I believe is a local brand.

I agree that if its for street driving (at low to mid rpm) cheap oil is an ok option as long as you are doing changes every 5k and no more! If you do ever decide you want to track it (or drive on the freeway in 2nd) don't go cheap on oil as you want something thats not going to break down at high engine temps.

I would say tho try and stick with fully synthetics and a 10w40 would be a quite adequate weight for street driving although i personally go 5w50 (mobil 1 fully synthetic) But i do use it on the track...i also over fill by about 500ml to try and stop potential starvation at high rpm/fast cornering.

Cheers

Cam

You won't go wrong with:

Brand - any name brand ie Mobil, Shell, Castrol, etc

Type - Full Synthetic

API rating - SJ (minimum, current is SM)

SAE (Grade): First digits (for starting) - 0W, 5W, 10W / Last Digits (for running) - 40

For a skyline ................Semi Synthetic is better than full synthetic....

Were are talking about motor that are 12yr +...............

Unless you have a forged motor

then we are talking different

Arrg so many differring recommendations/opinions. :blink:

I was sure that fully synthetic was definitely the way to go... but now i'm told semi-synthetic?

As for viscosity, I'm now looking at 10w40. Is that a good choice for an RB25DET engine that's gone 100,000k?

Arrg so many differring recommendations/opinions. :thumbsup:

it's simple, just use <your favourite brand here> oil.

seriously, any good quality full synthetic oil will do great. the minor differences are probably all in your head, the only consistent thing i notice is that the car seems to run nicer on FRESH oil.

Tried Motul, ELF, Nulon, Mobil 1 etc... the only thing better than any of these would be an oil that reverses the wear on your engine and that ain't happening! :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...