Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everybody,

I bought my gtst with all the basic mods and its power fc which was tuned for 100 octane petrol. The previous owner says it was tuned on a shell petrol which didnt have ethanol in it (not V-power racing which i dont like as its 20c more), so my question is since if run i it on 98 octane is there something i should adjust on my hand controller to accomodate to the lower octane petrol?

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230188-r33-tuned-for-100-octane/
Share on other sites

Hi everybody,

I bought my gtst with all the basic mods and its power fc which was tuned for 100 octane petrol. The previous owner says it was tuned on a shell petrol which didnt have ethanol in it (not V-power racing which i dont like as its 20c more), so my question is since if run i it on 98 octane is there something i should adjust on my hand controller to accomodate to the lower octane petrol?

Thanks!

Well you've contradicted yourself.

Tuned for Shell without ethanol means it was V-Power, the 98

The 100 was V-Power Racing, which had ethanol, and is not discontinued

So based on what you said, your car is already tuned for 98... so if you've been putting 100 in there, you've sadly been wasting your money.

So if you just muddled yourself and you indeed WERE tuned on 100, you will need to be re-tuned for 98. Simple as that

Yeah somehow the previous owner had 100 octane shell petrol in it for the tune, he said it didnt have ethanol in it but he may have been mislead. Who knows.

So a WHOLE retune is required to have the car running optimally?

I'd check the knock levels on the handset first, if the readings are OK, I wouldn't worry too much about it and just get it done whenever [the tune].

Sounds like the last owner didn't know what they were talking about [some confusion over fuels], so it could be that your tune is already OK as it is.

Suck it and see.............

Well you've contradicted yourself.

Tuned for Shell without ethanol means it was V-Power, the 98

The 100 was V-Power Racing, which had ethanol, and is not discontinued

So based on what you said, your car is already tuned for 98... so if you've been putting 100 in there, you've sadly been wasting your money.

So if you just muddled yourself and you indeed WERE tuned on 100, you will need to be re-tuned for 98. Simple as that

V-Power racing has been discontinued on the gold coast where i am and i suggest in many other places

this thread is redundant

100 octane is standard factory issue.

skylines from factory are tuned for 100 octane cause in japan thats the lowest octane they have....exept diesel obviously.

stick 98 in the tank and alter the timing the timing a couple of degrees.

Knock levels aren't too bad actually, i had some trouble with it before but i think the boost wasn't tuned correctly (liked to spike).

I switched from bp ultimate to normal v-power last week and i havent seen knock over 25.

I'll take it to the drags and see how i go.

Nizmonut, so i retard the timing by the odd degree?

in summer you will notice a raise in knock

Yeah thats definately true actually, summer was when i was having problems....

I'll let you know when i have time to do it, and we can sort something out, thanks for offering to help. (sick r33 btw :()

this thread is redundant

100 octane is standard factory issue.

skylines from factory are tuned for 100 octane cause in japan thats the lowest octane they have....exept diesel obviously.

stick 98 in the tank and alter the timing the timing a couple of degrees.

lol. that is a good one. 100octane is the lowest in japan. I'm sorry mate but that's simply not true. having been to japan many times, and driven cars in a number of different cities (tokyo, osaka, kyushu, chiba, saitama) I can tell you 100octane is pretty much the bees knees. hi-oku blend. regular unleaded there is like 94 octane. good fuel 98 or so, and yes they have hi-oku 100ron fuel too. but no factory car would be tuned un-able to run on 98 or even 96. this myth came about when high performance cars designed to run on 95 or 96 octane fuels were run on fuel in aus that at the time was 90-92 at best. things have come a long way since then and the gap between japanese fuel and australian fuel is not that great.

V-Power racing has been discontinued on the gold coast where i am and i suggest in many other places

Is United doing the same thing with their Boost 98?

Unless the car is tuned on the edge, running Vpower 98 fuel shouldn't be a problem. You will get more petrol into the cylinders compare to vpower racing and find that the car is alot richer. You will be down on power as well.

Have you try the freedom 98? It has 10% ethanol as well and is only 2 RON lower than Vpower racing. If knock reads higher with the freedom fuel then pull the timing back by a few degrees until knock reading goes back to normal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...