Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm in the process of looking at (possibly buying) an R32 GTR. I've found a white one which seems to be in decent condition (its from The Toy Shop in Sydney) and they're telling me its a Nismo GTR which is very rare apparently.

What are the differences between this model and a normal GTR? I would assume, and i think i can see by the pictures its got nismo gauges etc?

I've attached pics for your reference too

Thanks Nick

post-34184-1217465514_thumb.jpg

post-34184-1217465523_thumb.jpg

post-34184-1217465532_thumb.jpg

post-34184-1217465543_thumb.jpg

post-34184-1217465564_thumb.jpg

post-34184-1217465572_thumb.jpg

post-34184-1217465610_thumb.jpg

post-34184-1217465619_thumb.jpg

post-34184-1217465641_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230363-differences-between-r32-gtrs/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It has one of the hallmarks of a Nismo version - the rear window with no wiper and some of the other more generic stuff. But the only way to be sure is to check the build number. It is the KBNR32RBFS ZN which is the number sequence for the N1's.

How much do they want for it?

I doubt it is an easly model Group A homologation Nismo version simply because it is white (they were all grey) and also it has the late series console etc. It may (may) be a late N1, however.

Broadly the plates for the various models read :

Poverty pack

KBNR32RXFSLM2G

V spec

KBNR32RBFS AA

V spec 11

KBNR32RBFS8AA

Nismo

KBNR32RXFSL RA

BNR32-100198 for the build number. The 100 starts the sequence, the remainder of the numbering being from one to 560.

N1

KBNR32RBFS ZN

Edited by djr81
It has one of the hallmarks of a Nismo version - the rear window with no wiper and some of the other more generic stuff. But the only way to be sure is to check the build number. It is the KBNR32RBFS ZN which is the number sequence for the N1's.

How much do they want for it?

$25,990 with 12 months rego and 3 years warranty

Nismo's were gunmetal grey only. Does it have ABS? Also it dosn't have the Nismo pod thing in front of the rear wheels.

Easy way to to get the vin.

No it doesn't have ABS. And what pod thing? I'm only going off photos the guy sent me. But if i do have a look at it i'll check that out

Well if it is what he says it is I would reckon it is well worth the trip to look at it. What year & how many kms are being claimed?

As for the pod thing, don't worry about it. The early model Nismo cars had them, the late N1s sometimes did, sometimes didn't as near as I can make out.

Well if it is what he says it is I would reckon it is well worth the trip to look at it. What year & how many kms are being claimed?

As for the pod thing, don't worry about it. The early model Nismo cars had them, the late N1s sometimes did, sometimes didn't as near as I can make out.

1992 Model with 52,000kms

generally in order of desirability the R32 models go:

N1

V-specII

V-spec

regular late models (+92)

nismo

regular early models (pre 92)

the nismo version don't really have anything fancy. They don't have brembos like the vspecs do. They generally have some nismo body add ons, no wiper (though you could option one I believe), no ABS (though again, you could probably have optioned that too). some claim they had different turbos too, others claim they just had standard turbos. personally I've never seen a nismo edition one sell for much more than a comparable (age/condition/mods) plain version 32 GTR. part of that is because I believe all the nismo models were built 1990 and earlier so they are only really a little more desirable than other early model 32s.

anyway, I guess the point is, buy the car based on it's condition, mods, price, history etc. don't get yourself bowled over by the fact it's a nismo edition. just buy it cause it's a good example of a 32 (if it is).

also, the toy shop is not in sydney. they are about 2 hours drive north. :D

give us the VIN number of the car and we can tell you exactly what it is and isn't.

I'm sure if it had a HKS sticker on the boot the pundit selling you the car will tell you its a limited edition HKS Zero R model.

Also N1's don't come with aircon... which this has.

anyway, I guess the point is, buy the car based on it's condition, mods, price, history etc. don't get yourself bowled over by the fact it's a nismo edition. just buy it cause it's a good example of a 32 (if it is).

Couldn't agree more. It's not an investment (you will lose) and how much you lose will depend on the car its self and what has / has not been done to it. If you're not making money out of it (which you're not) then you need to enjoy the car and stem the potential flow of cash fixing it up if it's no good, so always buy on the merrits of the car in question.

I guess the Nismo thing may help it hold its value but I dare say any extra expenses you will incurr as a result of buying a dud car (Nismo or not) will far outweigh this.

I guess if you gotta have a Nismo, just cos you do, then do your homework, screw them down (as they are generally not selling well) and go for it. I'd be finding a schmiko workshop and getting them to go over it with a fine tooth cliche.

My 2c worth.

I definitely don't want to skimp on the purchase of the car and i want to make sure i buy a quality car...mainly due to the fact that if i bought a dud, i wouldn't be able to afford to repair it. I don't necessarily HAVE to have a NISMO..i just really want a 32 GTR. And i just want something CLEAN and i dare say moderately stock

**EDIT** going off what you're all saying...i'm gonna come to the conclusion that this ISN'T a nismo edition considering its got AC?

Edited by Black Widow
I definitely don't want to skimp on the purchase of the car and i want to make sure i buy a quality car...mainly due to the fact that if i bought a dud, i wouldn't be able to afford to repair it. I don't necessarily HAVE to have a NISMO..i just really want a 32 GTR. And i just want something CLEAN and i dare say moderately stock

**EDIT** going off what you're all saying...i'm gonna come to the conclusion that this ISN'T a nismo edition considering its got AC?

My experience of owning an R32 GTR is that from a repairs and maintenance point of view they are very heavy on your wallet. You need to use specialised workshops who will charge out handsomely and parts are not cheap if you want to do the job properly (which you kind of have to do if it's not to unravel its self on you.

Do your research into the cost of R&M.

Basic engine re-build is $10k.......

I definitely don't want to skimp on the purchase of the car and i want to make sure i buy a quality car...mainly due to the fact that if i bought a dud, i wouldn't be able to afford to repair it. I don't necessarily HAVE to have a NISMO..i just really want a 32 GTR. And i just want something CLEAN and i dare say moderately stock

**EDIT** going off what you're all saying...i'm gonna come to the conclusion that this ISN'T a nismo edition considering its got AC?

don't be too sure. I'm fairly certain you could option almost any car with any thing. so a nismo or N1 with aircon as an option is not out of the question.

the only way to tell for certain is the VIN. things like wiper, air con, kit, brakes, whatever are good clues, but they don't tell you for certain anything at all. VIN will reveal the truth. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...