Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

I've tried a quick search on this subject but there hasnt been much clear cut info that i've found. The z32 is the more common choice, but for the people chasing bigger power again in a single afm setup, wheres the brick wall for the q45.

I've heard that they read more and less than the z32, and some say it can read 500rwkws (which i find hard to beleive) so i'm not sure whats the real deal is. I've also read that the q45 can cause some problems at idle since its so big on a 2.5L, so im abit unsure on this.

So who out there actually has a q45 wired into their car, and how is it like to drive? Have there been any problems? What sort of power are you making on it and importantly at those power levels what was the afm voltage at? Also who has actually maxed the q45 out and what power was it making/boost pushing?

I've personally seen the stock afm run out of puff at the 200rwkw range, and the z32 gives up a bit past 300rwkw's, but the q45 is something i've always wondered about

;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230570-q45-afm-limit/
Share on other sites

im not normally a kw person, i would of thought 450rwhp would see a z32 maxing (abliet thats more than 300rwkws, just getting lazy with the conversions)

anyhoo, not really interested in the z32 side of things, just what the q45 is capable of ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230570-q45-afm-limit/#findComment-4051630
Share on other sites

The Q45 AFM will max out way before the Z32 one... Check out www.nicoclub.com they have a whole forum dedicated to the VH45. I've been hanging around there a lot since I'm sticking a turbo VH45 into a Z32... ;):)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230570-q45-afm-limit/#findComment-4051725
Share on other sites

it can vary, there are ones with large resolution and some without. mate of mine has one of the low ones, tops out just below 5000rpm (GT35R, RB30DET). if you get one of the 'high' reading ones i think its prettys imilar to a Z32, but just stick with the Z32 as its a known thing

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230570-q45-afm-limit/#findComment-4052082
Share on other sites

it can vary, there are ones with large resolution and some without. mate of mine has one of the low ones, tops out just below 5000rpm (GT35R, RB30DET). if you get one of the 'high' reading ones i think its prettys imilar to a Z32, but just stick with the Z32 as its a known thing

is there a way to see which q45 is high or low resolution without plugging it in?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230570-q45-afm-limit/#findComment-4052202
Share on other sites

560 rwhp - Std Q45

Have just removed the internals of the Q45 and fitted it to a 4 inch intake - aiming for 600 rwhp with this set up

:cool:

so would you have a high resolution q45 afm then? did it max out right on 560rwhp or was it a a while before that?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230570-q45-afm-limit/#findComment-4052208
Share on other sites

This is where i start to get in the "flip a coin" state,

once my motor is built i'll be aiming for around 450awhp on the street and about 500+awhp when on race gas (not very often), but im not sure to run a powerfc and use a q45 afm or to use another ecu with a map sensor. Preferably i would like to use a afm, but it seems that 500awhp will max out one, and i didnt really want to run a y pipe in the intake and half the afm values mainly because i would like it neat.

if the q45 isnt up to the task, maybe i should just go map :(

Edited by R34GTFOUR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230570-q45-afm-limit/#findComment-4052497
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

thats what the gtrs have from factory, but there isnt two afm inputs for the normal gtst's gt-t's. The only thing i've seen that is simular to what you're mentioning is running one afm, but use a ypipe in the intake so it only get half the air. When tuning you then halve the afm values and you've effectively doubled the reading power of the afm.

I just dont like the idea of that because its not neat imo and it can be a bit rough for daily driving (cruising rpm)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230570-q45-afm-limit/#findComment-4149069
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

hello

this has been covered a lot in the past

to date, we have see no evidence of there being two versions of the Q45 - a high and a low - so its is believed there is only one version, yellow label, 3.5", 3 wire AFM

but we have known some users fly past 350rwkw with a Q45 and some hit a "wall" around 250rwkw+ish with the Q45's

so i suspect theres two outcomes

1) there are two versions

2) there is only one version and someone is picking up the wrong model AFM, or there is another cause for maxing the AFM

either way if you want near 350rwkw go for Z32

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230570-q45-afm-limit/#findComment-4281113
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...