Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

its been covered once before but no harm in bringing it up again

engine is rb30 (not sure if extra height makes a diff)

chassis is r33 gts

current setup is ITS T66 with 0.7 comp

snug fit, room for a bit more

i want to go atleast gt35, preferablily gt40 and still use the low mount setup

i need pics of what turbo your using pls and its fitment

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230792-biggest-turbo-using-hks-low-mount/
Share on other sites

its been covered once before but no harm in bringing it up again

engine is rb30 (not sure if extra height makes a diff)

chassis is r33 gts

current setup is ITS T66 with 0.7 comp

snug fit, room for a bit more

i want to go atleast gt35, preferablily gt40 and still use the low mount setup

i need pics of what turbo your using pls and its fitment

thanks

If ITS is anything like Garrett, a T66 is bigger than a GT35R - so you will be downgrading if you went to a GT35R. A Garrett T04Z will fit in that location though I wouldn't be too sure a GT40R would.

If you mean the HKS low mount cast split pulse manifold with the external gate mount on top there are interesting possibilities .

If you look at the turbo mounting "pad" you'll see that it's big enough for the full sized T04/TA45 foot print , HKS used the smaller split T3 (correctly speaking T4 Euro) stud pattern and twin outlets .

I used to have pics of one of these manifolds redrilled/tapped and ported for the large T4 type turbine housing footprint .

Your call but I would be wary of using huge turbos on RB25's, would work better on a 25/30 but not really a race type valve train .

HKS also did one for RB26 heads and they were big T4 flanged and intended for a bigish dinosaur TA45S . The modern equal turbo wise would probably be a GT4088R .

A .

If you look at the turbo mounting "pad" you'll see that it's big enough for the full sized T04/TA45 foot print , HKS used the smaller split T3 (correctly speaking T4 Euro) stud pattern and twin outlets .

I used to have pics of one of these manifolds redrilled/tapped and ported for the large T4 type turbine housing footprint .

Mine has the 'dual' drilled and tapped positions. I used the T3 and a GT3076 WG [popular choice for many]. And yes, in theory you could use the T4 footprint for a bigger turbo, but tI wouldn't like to port match the T4 footprint to the turbo [assuming the T4 has a larger throat]. To do that I would guess you'd firstly have to build up the outside with cast weld to strengthen and thicken the metal.

If you didn't do this I'm estimating/guessing you'd almost certainly break out, or thin the metal that much it would be too weak and fracture/burn away.

By the way, the limiting factor isn't the turbo size, there is plenty of room all round, its the turbo inlet size. I have a 100mm unit and had to cut back the front engine mount for clearance. I actually thought of refacing the mounting position ie cut the T3 mounting face back at an angle [say 5 degree's], this would swing the turbo mouth out a bit, but then you have the stud holes, so you would have to weld them up and retap square to the new face etc. I don't think this would have affected flow, the manifold casting [tubing] is still at a slight angle as it drops to the T3 face - but then I got lazy and left it. Now its on and I CBF, its working, I'm driving, thats it.

If you mean the HKS low mount cast split pulse manifold with the external gate mount on top there are interesting possibilities .

If you look at the turbo mounting "pad" you'll see that it's big enough for the full sized T04/TA45 foot print , HKS used the smaller split T3 (correctly speaking T4 Euro) stud pattern and twin outlets .

I used to have pics of one of these manifolds redrilled/tapped and ported for the large T4 type turbine housing footprint .

Your call but I would be wary of using huge turbos on RB25's, would work better on a 25/30 but not really a race type valve train .

HKS also did one for RB26 heads and they were big T4 flanged and intended for a bigish dinosaur TA45S . The modern equal turbo wise would probably be a GT4088R .

A .

I have the same HKS manifold & gate as mentioned with Garret T04E turbo, it is quite a tight fit that the engine mounting had to be modified using RB20 engine mounts with spacer plates to match the height. Any chance the T04Z would fit, cos i really like that turbo. Not interested to go top mount cos heard that they do crack due to the weight.

I have the same HKS manifold & gate as mentioned with Garret T04E turbo, it is quite a tight fit that the engine mounting had to be modified using RB20 engine mounts with spacer plates to match the height. Any chance the T04Z would fit, cos i really like that turbo. Not interested to go top mount cos heard that they do crack due to the weight.

Poor Quality Stainless Steel High mount Manifolds will crack.

Good quality Stainless ones are not as likely to crack if setup correctly.

Steam pipe manifolds ie. ETM/6BOOST are preety much guaranteed not to crack and will probably flow alot better than any of the lowmount style manifolds

Trident I had a feeling the HKS cast manifolds port sizing would be the limiting factor .

HKS would have known that and gone straight to the real T4 flange/port dimensions on the RB26 spec single turbo split pulse low mount manifold . The one I looked at certainly looked like it meant business anyway .

A while back FullRace Geoff did mention a power figure at which the T4 Euro split port flange size (commonly known as "split T3") becomes a restriction . The ports through this smaller flange can only be made so big and eventually with enough exhaust flow becomes limiting - regardless of what A/R housing or turbo is bolted to it .

Don't forget that most Garrett T4 (Euro or the larger "T4 International" type) housings are made for Diseasils which have lower EGT's and are usually low reving things .

Garrett only went as far as the GT3582R and the "T3" footprint , their marketed version of the T04Z (same cartridge as HKS units) can arguably use split Euro or split International T4 flanged housings but really they are intended for diesels . The T04Z cartridge is a modified P trim/60-1 cartridge - uses the BCI-8D (T04R) compressor wheel .

Note HKS used a split T4 International flanged turbine housing that merges into one volute passage .

I think a GT3582R in its largest A/R turbine housing (1.06) should be able to go to the limit of that HKS RB20/25 cast manifold .

A .

Poor Quality Stainless Steel High mount Manifolds will crack.

Good quality Stainless ones are not as likely to crack if setup correctly.

Steam pipe manifolds ie. ETM/6BOOST are preety much guaranteed not to crack and will probably flow alot better than any of the lowmount style manifolds

A friend 34GTR with high mount T67 Trust kit had leaks due to cracks in the manifold. not sure which part but he eventually fabricated a totally new using better material stainless and much thicker too. Though the weight now is pretty heavy.

  • 1 month later...
  • 9 years later...

Hello, I know this is a major resurrection of a thread, but does anyone have any new experiences with ow mounting big singles. I see hypertune has a big low mounted single in their S15, and the RIPS R34 borg has a medium sized low mount turbo. Im interested in low mounting an EFR 8374, but cant seem to find much info on people low mounting big singles.

Low mounting a 8374 is lol. It is a huge turbo, in the context of low mounting one in a RB.


My 7670 was much, much, much larger than a GTX3582 and that was a squeeze to low mount. (The GTX3582, the 7670 low mounting was a non-option)

The answer on low mounting a single nowdays would have to be the Garrett G series - They are much more compact for the power they put out. Definitely 100% without any doubt ever that is the turbo you want to get if for some reason you demand it to be low mounted.

Thanks man, I should divulge that my car is not a skyline or an S chassis, so I may have more room to work with.. Id really like to see your low mounted gt35 if you were willing to send me a picture. As much as id like to try the G series, I cant seem to find any info on them, which is surprising. I figured of all people, the GTR guys would be all over these. I dont know what they compare to in size to previous Garrets, and I am unsure of what they compare too in response/spool on a 2.6 RB. The output is plenty im sure. 

19 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

Low mounting a 8374 is lol. It is a huge turbo, in the context of low mounting one in a RB.


My 7670 was much, much, much larger than a GTX3582 and that was a squeeze to low mount. (The GTX3582, the 7670 low mounting was a non-option)

The answer on low mounting a single nowdays would have to be the Garrett G series - They are much more compact for the power they put out. Definitely 100% without any doubt ever that is the turbo you want to get if for some reason you demand it to be low mounted.

 

aGnslE8l.jpg

Nwf6ImDl.jpg

Edited by DiscardTheWeak
Just now, iruvyouskyrine said:

Are you specifically using the cast HKS low mount?

I have a custom low mount manifold made that currently runs an EFR6758 but fits an EFR 8374/9180 with ease in my RB20 S15.

No, I am not using the HKS manifold. I would very much appreciate pictures of your setup, as it would help alot. The 6758 and 8374/9180 are quite different in size. Id even be interested in who made your manifold, would save me the trouble of making one. Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have no hard data to report, but I have to say, having driven it to work and back all week, mostly on wet roads (and therefore mostly not able to contemplate anything too outrageous anywhere)..... it is real good. I turned the boost controller on, with duty cycle set to 10% (which may not be enough to actually increase the boost), and the start boost set to 15 psi. That should keep the gate unpressurised until at least 15 psi. And rolling at 80 in 5th, which is <2k rpm, going to WOT sees the MAP go +ve even before it crosses 2k and it has >5 psi by the time it hits 90 km/h. That's still <<2.5k rpm, so I think it's actually doing really well. Because of all the not-quite-ideal things that have been in place since the turbo first went on, it felt laggy. It's actually not. The response appears to be as good as you could hope for with a highflow.
    • Or just put in a 1JZ, and sell me the NEO head 😎
    • Oh, it's been done. You just run a wire out there and back. But they have been known to do coolant temp sensors, MAP sensors, etc. They're not silly (at Regency Park) and know what's what with all the different cars.
    • Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
×
×
  • Create New...