Jump to content
SAU Community

Popping Sound And Car Shaking

Wacky Dee

By Wacky Dee,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
Posted

Just got the car back from a big-ish service incl all oils changed, fuel filters, gapped spark plugs etc and noticed that if I rev the engine and hold rpm somewhere between 1500 and 2500 rpm (I didn't try higher because I didn't want to attract attention to myself..) while the car is sitting idle in neutral, there's a muffled popping sound followed by a small shake (drive seat shakes noticably) every few seconds ..sometimes more than one in a row.

Like popcorn starting to pop ..just more muffled sound, and each pop shakes the car a bit. Is this just the exhaust note or should I be worried ? Detonation? Car's ecu was tuned before the service and it was NOT pinging/detonating...

The car's an R34 GTT with a turbo-back exhaust with a 3" catback (HKS SilentPower)

I never noticed this before but then again I never held the engine at 1500rpm for a few seconds before either..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231130-popping-sound-and-car-shaking/
Share on other sites
Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hm are you sure this is missfire? I searched for "Popping" last night and read a lot of older discussions and a lot of people seem to be under the impression that these popping sounds are normal on skylines and a few said it's probably due to running rich in that rev range .. no mentions of missfire anywhere.

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I have no idea which plugs they put in ... I'm taking the car back to unigroup to have a listen to this. Could it be due to old fuel? car's been at the shop for was 2 weeks and only 1/4 of tank of fuel sitting in it

Edited by Delta Force
BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

mine runs rough in the same situation. though in mine i put it down to section of the map thats never been tuned.

It's just a rich miss and nothing to be overly concerned about. It's something tune related and i wouldn't expect it's a result of a service. I'm pretty sure unigroup will tell you the same thing but it doesn't hurt to have it looked at if you are concerned.

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Took it back to unigroup and as soon as Yavuz heard the popping at idle and low revs he said "yep it's misfiring" .. and that it's due to the small gap (0.75mm) so they regapped the spark plugs to 1mm and no more misfire/popping sounds ;-) Best of all ..they did it all for free! That's good service. Cheers.

adzR34 Collaborator

adzR34

Posted
Posted
Took it back to unigroup and as soon as Yavuz heard the popping at idle and low revs he said "yep it's misfiring" .. and that it's due to the small gap (0.75mm) so they regapped the spark plugs to 1mm and no more misfire/popping sounds ;-) Best of all ..they did it all for free! That's good service. Cheers.

Hey mate was yours the black r34 there? I was there about a week ago also.. had a safc tune. Mine is doing the same thing and yavuz said its normal with running small gapped plugs.. Funny i also hear it pop every now and then only on idle

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
  • Author
Posted

just one thing ... Yav also mentioned that the car may misfire at higher rpms with bigger gap (and non stock boost). But for me that's not really an issue as a very rarely go above 4000rpm anyway (daily driver)

  • 3 years later...
369 Enthusiast

369

Posted
Posted

sorry to bring up an old thread but i think my input is relevant and not worth starting a new thread.......

i have been experiencing the same muffled popping/rumble sound then shaking when car is idling after cold start. i noticed the rumble and shaking start to settle down after the engine oil had warmed up to about 90 degrees.

couldn't figure out what was wrong, then 2 weeks later the check engine light came. it turned out an exhaust leak at the rear muffler was causing the rumble and shake while idling.

the leak was at the weld joints along the exhaust pipe that had started to rust. this was probably making the car run a little too rich as well, but i could be wrong.

cheers!!!

PaulosECR33 Community Regular

PaulosECR33

Posted
Posted

mine does it too at idle, is normal. atm mine has a dump pipe like 6 inches long and is running Super rich so it sounds worse, gaps are .8. is perfect when you apply any throttle though all the way to 7000rpm

PaulosECR33 Community Regular

PaulosECR33

Posted
Posted (edited)

mine does it too at idle, is not dangerous. atm mine has a dump pipe like 6 inches long and is running Super rich so it sounds worse, gaps are .8. is perfect when you apply any throttle though all the way to 7000rpm

ah crap that effort to edit a post was ABSOLUTE FAIL

Edited by PaulosECR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...