Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here are some pics of the damage this is the #6 cylinder piston and it is the worst. All 6 of them were damaged. Also a few close ups of 3 spark plugs, as far as I can tell they show no signs of pre-det from what I can tell. Just carbon/oil marks from being rich and well burning oil due to serious blow by.

DSCN4509.jpg

DSCN4512.jpg

DSCN4515.jpg

DSCN4516.jpg

DSCN4517.jpg

As you can see in the pic the damage is ONLY on 50% of the piston all on the intake side. The exhaust side of the piston is as smooth as they day I bought them...

Timing was 16 degrees WOT @ 16-17 psi through the 67mm. 2.7 liter 8.5 to 1 compression. Super super conservative. 93 octane A/f's were 11.0's WOT till 7250rpm were I was letting out. Intake temps around 30-32 C, coolant 88-92 C. I didn't appear to be having EGT issues during this time. It was before when my exhaust adjustable cam gear was super retarded w/o me knowing (finally found the issue) and I was missing 50% of my power when my manifold/turbine housing would be glowing as red as a stop sign after a pull or two.

Question comes down to what does a knowledgeable person on reading pistons feel would make it only melt on the intake side?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/232311-melted-pistons-only-on-intake-side/
Share on other sites

Thats crazy, I would be clutching at straws really to give anything haha. Is there ANYTHING else about the setup that you think you could share? What kind of air filter were you running? Its a bit weird there isn't obvious pitting/strange shape in the piston - ones I have seen from lean run or det are usually a lot less "smooth" than that, its almost like its been machined and I'm sure you'd have mentioned if the spark plugs had melted or anything like that. Its rather odd.

The more I think about it, the more I think its gotta have been detonation.... did you have knock mic on it etc when tuning?

Edited by Lithium

i have had something similiar happen to my rb27 in the past making big power (600hp+). Mine didnt melt any plugs but did some serious damage to 3 forged JUN pistons and the other 3 were starting to go as well, also on the intake sides only, cylinder 1, 3 and 6 from memory. My head looked the worst, have u got any pics of the chambers of those cylinders to see what its like?

how much power u pushing at the time?

send me a pm with pics if u like and i can let u know what was causing mine.

Edited by unique1

"Super super conservative"

Um no.....you have detonated it to death.........

See the pic with the side of the piston eaten away....det does that, and yes generally on the intake side.

16 degs (altho it may sound low) can be way too much sometimes, it all depends on the individual engine/setup.

Some combos only cop single digits, while others love 25+...

thats wat happened to me, except all 6 pistons were just fktttt....... It was the bad fuel and topped it when i took it to echuca ....... My friend has access to echuca Airport after hours and its insane man....... but ye now a rebuilt engine with forgies and i will never treat her with standard unleaded again.... Giving my 33 normal unleaded is like slapping god in the face.... YOU JUST DONT DO IT hahahahahaha

Looks like a big case of too lean.

Why it does it on the intake side is due to cylinder inefficiencies on intake. Swirl in the chamber or intake valve shroud or short side radius air flow etc etc. will cause one part of the piston/chamber to have a problem with detonation first.

I suggest you find a new tuner if they reckon all is well.

Cheers

Marty

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...