Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, ive just spent the last few hours searching, but havent found anything definative, so heres my problem:

Im having clutch disengagement issues; when i coast up to a set of lights or a roundabout and put my foot on the clutch to put it in neutral, the gearstick doesnt want to disengage from the selected gear. I have to force it out the gear and the car wants to still lurch forward as if the clutch is still slightly engaged. Also, if i dont FULLY depress the clutch into the carpet, its usually quite difficult to select 3rd and 4th gear unless the engine and gearbox revs are exact.

This has only started hapening the last few days.

Its an R33 gtst gearbox behind an rb26 in an r32 gtst. The clutch is brand new, the slave cylinder is as old as the gearbox (no idea), and the master cylinder is an original item as far as i know. I havent bled the clutch yet either.

Im hoping the slave is not pushing the fork thingy in far enough, as that would be the cheapest fix. Oh, and im also interested in getting a Nismo bigger slave cylinder. Is this a worthwhile thing to do??

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Shaun.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233069-clutch-disengagement-problem/
Share on other sites

yep. where it attaches to the top of the clutch pedal there is some adjustment.

in the pic: the blue line is the firewall. the red arrow is pointing to where it attaches to the clutch pedal. the yellow arrow is the nut you have to undo to be able to screw the shaft which gives you your adjustment. just make sure that after you make the adjustment your clutch fully disengages.

post-34711-1219657464_thumb.jpg

A larger slave cylinder will only make the problem worse.

Is the pedal box, where the clutch pedal attaches, still ok?

Why would a larger slave make the problem worse? I thought the Nismo item might provide more movement or something, but i really dont know.

I havent had a look under there yet; ill have a look and get back to you. Im hoping i can adjust the clutch pedal and all will be ok, but the car has had some heavy single plates in it through out its evolution, so it is possible that they have taken their toll on the pedal box. Hope not though.

Shaun.

Ok, i got under there tonight and the pedal box is ok, ie; there are no cracks in the welds or anything like that.

I could see where you adjust the clutch on that threaded shaft, but there was no way i could have loosened the nut on the shaft without taking the master cylinder off the firewall. I took the pin out and disconnected the shaft from the clutch pedal, but couldnt get to that nut. Pisses me off.

Also, ive got a squeak when i apply the clutch pedal; its coming from inside the bell housing. Im not really sure what to do.

Shaun.

Which way did you move the nut to get greater movement of the clutch? Towards the front of the car or towards the rear?

Im pretty sure you move it towards the front; just checking.

Shaun.

Edited by Shaun
  • 2 weeks later...

I'm having the same problem with my R32.

The car has difficulties engage to second if the revs are not right.

when braking, if the gear is in 2nd or 1st, if I don't shift to neutral before a complete stop, it is very difficult to push out of gear in the last few meters before stopping. And even with the clutch fully disengaged, the revs drops and almost stalls when coming to a stop with gear in 2nd or 1st, but once the car is stationary, there is no problem moving in or out of gear.

So to me it definitely feels that the clutch is not disengaging correctly, I'll give the method shown here a try and see how the OP goes with his attempts.

You can get replacement piston kits from nissan for the clutch master and slave cylinder. They are really cheap, about $70 for both and p*ss easy to fit. I took out the bundy pipe and that extra bit and replaced it with a single braided line between master and slave cylinder. Made a load of difference!

Dont know if you blokes need the extra bit of pipe cos I heard it was for hot climates.

^^^^ Thats exactly what im having made up at the moment. Ill piss off the hard lines and replace it with a single braided line. I also bought a Nismo slave cylinder, so hopefully it might make a bit of difference. Im pretty sure you lose a bit of travel with the Nismo slave though, because of its larger diameter bore. Ive still got some adjustment on the master cylinder push rod though.

I dont really understand the hot climate thing, as there is no flow in the clutch line anyway, so no real cooling effect. Except for increased surface area maybe.

Edited by Shaun

If it was operating ok before the problem showed up, it can really be only one thing..air in the system. Trickle bleed the slave cylinder & see if you get the travel back.

Nismo cylinder will just give you a lighter pedal effort on heavy pressure plates due to the piston size..can't imagine any other advantage, could be wrong...guess the name's worth something.

BTW; adjusting the master cylinder operating rod isn't going to give you any more travel because your just changing the pedal to piston stop relationship...not increasing piston travel..well unless it's badly adjusted already. Should you lengthen it too much, with the pedal fully extended, you will just push the piston up the bore & close off the feed port from the reservoir...and if there's a bit of wear in the bore & you change the piston travel, it's going to start leaking.

I'd just kit both master/slave cyls & problem solved..better still get them fitted with stainless sleeves & they will last forever.

hope this helps...

Edited by FTO

Thanks mate. I just installed the master cylinder with the braided line and Nismo slave. The pedal is definately lighter, which is good because it was too heavy before. I adjusted the position of the clutch pedal and its too high so ill put it back where it was.

The braided line thing is definately worth while, as its so easy to bleed the clutch now. I got mine made up for $60 from the local brake and clutch place; i couldnt spend $120 on one from UAS.

I havent taken it off the stands yet; ive had the flu soooo bad this week, i havent really left the sofa.

The Nismo slave definately makes the pedal lighter (i reckon 30% lighter), but i did the braided line thing at the same time, so im not sure if thats had an effect on the feel either.

Ill take it for a spin tomorrow if its not raining up here.

Just a side note. Ive also had a really annoying squeek in the clutch fork inside my gearbox, so i took the rubber boot off and lubricated the little ball thing with an extended paddle pop stick and some bearing grease. Youve gotta be really careful not to get grease everywhere otherwise it might get on your clutch, but its so much nicer to push the clutch in now. A really worthwhile thing to do if your clutch squeeks inside the gearbox housing.

nismo slave most likely wouldn't fix disengagement problems as the nismo slave actually has short throw than a stocky.

most like the problem is one of 3. damaged/bent fork. damaged/broken bearing carier (sometimes the little ears snap), damaged or broken clutch cover/pressure plate. the bummer is that pretty much all means gearbox off to diagnose. :blink:

nismo slave most likely wouldn't fix disengagement problems as the nismo slave actually has short throw than a stocky.

most like the problem is one of 3. damaged/bent fork. damaged/broken bearing carier (sometimes the little ears snap), damaged or broken clutch cover/pressure plate. the bummer is that pretty much all means gearbox off to diagnose. :)

Hey, i was just thinking about what you said could be the problem(s) above, and ive just changed my harmonic balancer to an ATI item. I was pretty paranoid about having the thing come off because ive heard so many stories about this happening, so i really leaned on the bolt when tightening it up. In order to stop the engine spinning when torquing the bolt up, i had the car in fourth gear and the handbrake on tight.

Could this have bent the fork or caused any of the damage you suggested above? Im not really sure if any of that hardware is in use when the clutch is not depressed.

It would explain a few things though.

Thanks,

Shaun.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...