Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I couldnt find the thread in which i posted the extrude honed manifold flow results(??), if anyone can find it please link.

I found another thread and will follow on from this..

"There is one bloke. I forget his alias. Orange R33 in his Sig.

I believe he had UAS power port/extrude hone his std exh. manifold but he is/was oversea's so he was unable to test.

He's running a gt2835 and currently making up around 280rwkw.

I'm very keen on seeing his results. Maybe UAS could shed some light on if the extrude honed std exh. manifold allows it to push considerably more than the 300rwkw brick wall the std exh. manifold usually see's."

Well the car has just been dynoed, and.....

no power increase at all. I havent seen the dyno sheet as im still overseas, but from what i heard from my brother was that they played around with it for ages in search of more, but came up with nothing. If anything it made the same power at slightly less boost im told.

It is certain that the extrude honed manifold flows more, and i think the lack of results is most likely due to the turbo itself, maybe even the wastegate issue that many people mention (but personally i just think its out of puff). Seeing that the 2835 is not commonly known to push up and past 300rwkw, id really need to put a 3037 on there to see if the stock manifolds brick wall can be pushed.

I know many were eagerly awaiting these results, its a shame theres nothing exciting to share,

cheers :/

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Could you have a graph overlay posted up showing before/after comparison?

Shame that there was no quantifiable improvement, but it'd be interesting to hear if there was any different on-road feel to how it drives. I tend to agree that ~280rwkW should be pushing the max flow capabilities of the 2835.

What sort of price range to have the extrude hone done?

it may be some time until i get the graph but will see what i can do.

Spoke to my engine builder today and he thinks the same, that with a bigger turbo you would most likely see differences compared to the stock mani.

dont quote me as im not sure (was a long time ago) from memory just over $400? And was done buy a place in melbourne i think, if anyone can dig up the original thread there should be the details... ill have another look.

what size is the rear housing on the 2835? I'd say that is the problem if its only a 0.63.

Then again, the compressor technically shouldn't go any higher than 280rwkw as it just isn't designed to.

Shame the turbo isn't a GT3037.

I've had an SR20 6boost manifold done by Andrew Sanders at Specialised Power Porting who is based out of Mt Helen (near Ballarat I believe - not sure because I'm in Perth). From memory cost was around $550.

i do not see how it will add power

i can see how it would increase car response ramping on boost but not power increase

its likely youll gain some more torque / power earlier but overall peak should be the same

if you did the same to the turbine housing then i would say peak power could increase

In much the same way as increasing A/R size of the turbine housing, extrude honing should allow the manifold to increase its mass-flow capacity. ie. it can just put more exhaust flow through more efficiently. You have to look at it from the perspective of pressure gradient across the engine, not just inlet boost pressure. That the car did not make any higher peak power supports the general observation that the stock manifold is good for ~ 300rwkW of flow, and a 2835 with 0.68 A/R turbine is a touch short.

Waiting for comments from those who have exceeded 300kW with those components, but also want to know how comfortably and reliably it was done...

I'm glad you shared the results.

For better or worse it adds to the knowledge base and takes it a step beyond the "i reckon based on numbers" type thinking that a lot of us end up having to do based on lack of actual results.

Simple answer, $400 can be better spent elsewhere if chasing sub 300rwkw, much like .63 IW 3071 doesn't work :D

Another interesting test would be to swap for an aftermarket low mount manifold made from stainless or similar. As there seem to be a whole bunch of sceptics about what performance gains a Jap brand exhaust manifold actually produces. Although not sure there are too many RB25 low mount off-the-shelf manifolds kicking around. Throw in tuned length and there are so many combinations that I would like to test haha :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...