Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 321
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

omg the extractors are teh bomb... they make a sweet noise when I give it gas, having driven a stock GTS and mine, it makes a big difference. The engine revs a lot smoother too.

I even got the jap manual, the bill for purchase and fitting by a performance shop in japan, and a sticker for it, which was never attached.

I also got an HKS airbox... but I haven't tried any alternative CAI methods so I can't compare it to anything.

I'm gonna do some light mods to the car, what do you guys recommend to get the most out of the N/A?

extractors_manual_1.jpg

hi all... im relatively new to the Skyline world, having only just bought one ~6months ago, but like everyone else, am looking for more power... I only have an R32 GTS Type-S (RB20DE), so am not expecting miracles, but being beaten by any commodore is just embarrasing...

Having read all of the previous posts on Exhausts/extractors/CAIs etc, im wondering whether its worth the effort of staying NA. All the same, When i bought the car, she already had a 3" high flow system, of some japanese origin, but i think the headers are only factory (not a manifold though). The air box on the 32 is fed from under the headlight assembly anyway, so would a CAI or Pod filter help at all? You guys sound like you'd know more about this than me, so any help will be great.. Cheers, Phil

well in that case, can you tell me what badges yours has? coz some ...unmentionable... has gone to all the trouble of RIPPING ALL MINE OFF !!! bastard... anyways, it was before i got it, and i have never seen another one (i live in a small town) close enough to work out what im meant to have. All i can see is the outlines on the front arches where the GT badges were.

Originally posted by pstanbis

All the same, When i bought the car, she already had a 3" high flow system, of some japanese origin, but i think the headers are only factory (not a manifold though).

3" is way to big for a NA 2.0 litre, I've got a 2 1/2" exhaust system on my 2.5 litre and I wouldn't go any bigger. If you're going to keep the car NA, get a hold of some extractors (there's a group buy set up at the moment, to get Cobe's for around the $300 mark), and if you're going to slap on a pod filter, make sure you sheild it so it doesn't suck in the hot air from around the engine.

At the end of the day though, you're pretty limited with what you can get out of the 2.0 litre engine.

i would have to agree that 3" is probably a *Little* bit of overkill for 2 litres... but it's not like its a 2-stroke requiring a tuned back-pressure, is it? i dunno... all the same, i am also aware that theres not much to do with that small capacity, but at my age, there is no way i can insure a forced aspro car of ANY sort, (but lets face it, after owning a Skyline, what else would you have?) so im trying to make the best of what i've got.

The air intake is another matter, because im SURE you can't get too much air. And i fitted a pair of driving lights the other week, and found that behind the side intake of the GTR front bar (again, a waste on a GTS) is a gaping cavity with nothing in it. Would it be worth trying to tap the pod filter into this area, as it would then be drawing fully from the open air in front, which would obviously be the coldest. Anyone else tried this before? suggestions?

hey guys i got the same extractors as the one in the group buy

i found em here in sydney paid a little bit more than the group buy price though

just comparing the old headers to the new ones you could tell that the new ones would perform better but i wasnt expecting much difference from them but boy was i surprised

i have a 2.5 inch cat back exhaust, stock cat and the coby extractors i also have a cold air induction

once the extractors were installed i noticed straight away that the car sounded meaner and more open it also reved smoother and quicker i regaind alot of the low down power i lost when i put the exhaust on

so just lettting u guys know im very happy with em

hopefully u guys will be too

anf

yea i was so close to changing it to a 2.25" but i thought ill wait till the extractors go on then i would decide wat to do but it seems ok now

i tightened the accelerator cable too cause there was a sh*tload of slack

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...