Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So if i want to import an 1988 S13 what do i need to do exactly???

How do i get an import approval is my main question?

Also if its modified will they give me a hard time when i try and get it registered?

I know u need child seat harnesses etc.

Im in WA btw.

Thanks

Any manual conv cefiro's megalla??

  • Replies 153
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

From what I can gather (various sources) the requirement for exact month is a stop-gap measure to limit the number of cars that come in early in 2004, giving the department time to sort out and pass a change in this rule. Otherwise they would be swamped with hundreds (thousands?) of applications on January 1st. As for how the rule will be changed, I have heard many theories, but the most commonly put forward is that there will be a new standard of checking (not just an engineering certificate) before these cars can be registered. It may be the case that only a RAWS can import these cars and a basic standard of compliance modification similar to the old low-volume import scheme may need to be carried out.

If this looks too hard to do they may simply revise the rule to 20 years or maybe older. All they are really interested in doing is limiting the total number of imports coming in. A) because they have limited staff to process applications B) because the volume importers are constantly lobbying the government to maintain their virtual monopoly, even though they are already the most protected industry in Australia and all are foreign-owned companies.

We included a petition in issue 10 of HPI three years ago, encouraging people to complain to their parliament member about this, but obviously not many people did. Now it's too late and everyone is sitting around complaining.

The requirment for licencing imported 1989 vehicles next year with-in W.A are due for some changes ie;

* full engineers inspection

*cat converters

*intrusion bars

*seat belt upgrades

*emmisions test(full) to RAWS spec

*CRA,s

*removal of some a/m parts

*ect,,,,,

* RAWS to comply only T.B.C

I know, other State licencing authorities in Aust have been insisting on these requirments now for some time, although some of the proposed changes are being challenged legally. We fully understand the requirments under the M.V.A of 89,to have ALL vehicles built on or after this date to comply with ADR,s of the day (1989) although the following are highly arguable

1. Engineers sign-off, this is what we pay the vehicle examiners for?

2. emmisions test, NO Aust vehicle of 15y/o would pass this test so why should a used Jap import?

3.RAWS only to comply, why? a RAW system is a Federal requirment and has No State recognised authority.

These issues will be talked about in depth latter, but WATCH this space.......

Cheers

F.Y.I********

Used Japanese imported vehicles represent 0.8% of ALL vehicles sold in Aust ;

***2002**** Report prepared by industry groups

2003 Nissan report" Luxury 4x4 sales up 37% 2003 QTR

2003 Toyota "Sales tipped for continued growth this year"

2003 Toyota " captures small mid range vehicle market with the introduction of the new Corolla"

Talk about GREED........

Just read an article in BRW Magazine re: used car market.

My summary ....

" due to the record of new cars sold in australia in past year (approx 1 per 22 people), the used car market is feeling the crunch.... with over 20% of used car dealers estimated to be going broke in the next 6 months.."

I'm probably a little off with the exact figures, however it's not only the big guns (who are doing better than ever), who have an interest. It's the whole market of second hand cars ... such as dealers, mums & dads, etc ...

An open economy is bad for a lot of groups who are unwilling to move with the times....

BTW ...

I have 4, 15 year rule cars in Melbourne :P ... most of us in this post seem to be affected in some way by these rules.

A lot of good info here guys .. interesting to see everyone's views.

IMHO .. well, we have established whether a buyer or importer of these cars ... individually we are small fish in the auto industry. As a group we obviously make a significant impact on many stakeholders interests.

So what to do ? ... think about the risks and workout what you will do if the laws change at the drop of a hat... if you don't have an exit plan (or can't take the hit), buy locally.

what are my 4, 15 year rule cars?

I'll tell you anyway :) ... a manual SR Coverted modified Silvia, and three lovely Manual Turbo Cefiro's ... one is factory manual and they all have zorst, clutch and suspension as minimum.

pm / email me for details .. i will be posting in cars for sale section within 24hrs

cheers,

Oyabun (aka R32PWR)

I do like my cars...

bought the silvia as I was looking for a daily driver to accompany my beast endless...

And the Ceffy's ... well, I took one drive in Meggala's and had to have one ... then I saw a better one, then I saw a better one ... now I just want to mix and match with the best bits to create the ultimate ceffy? ...

now i got to get rid of 2 ceffy's and the sil ... as Endless is becoming a bit of an Ego investment :D

do I try to lose money when I sell my cars? .. well, no.

Guys, I am a tad confused ???

Can someone summerise what this is all about, I have read right through the thread. Does this 15 year rule only apply to "private" imports or to all imports? Can I import a 10year old car so long as I pay for compliance?

Thanks, I am waiting on a car at the moment, it's on the water but it is older than 15 years 87/88 I think...will this be complied ?

I am actually gettting it from a dealer and not actually importing it my self so it is all good...the first one didn't turn out to be what the importer thought...Just cause it says twin turbo on the tail light doesn't mean it will be a twin engine :rolleyes:

As I understand it it, the current rules re 15 year old cars requires that you fit retractable seatbelts, high-level stop light, a smaller fuel nozzle (cos our unleaded pumps have a smaller nozzle then the "leaded" pumps), non-convex mirrors and side-impact bars in the doors.

Once you've done all this and have an engineer's sign-off for the mods you've basically got your car complied!! Then you need to get it licenced and registered. Then you can finally drive off into the sunset....straight into your garage ready to make the car really, really FAST!! :-)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...