Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

This thread is an elaboration from Trents (URAS) thread which basically showed the low/midrange gains of a boost solenoid or stepper motor with a properly setup 'Gain" function; Fine control of wastegates.

Thankyou by the way Trent from stopping me buying the power fc boost kit!

Also

The discussion about stock airboxes and whether they proved a restriction from an air velocity, turbulance and volume point.

-First dyno sheet was done on the 2nd of July and made 235awkw at 1bar with an apexi replacement panel filter and bottom half of the airbox removed.

-Boost controler was a HKS EVC version 3 (solenoid)

-Dyno done today made 255awkw at 1 bar with apexi power intake pods

-Boost controller was a new HKS EVC Version 6 (stepper motor)

Both dyno runs were done with the bonnets up so even though there was a gain of 20awkw would we expect a car in bumper to bumper traffic to have higher intake temperatures and therefore lose this power? But one thing is for sure, the addition of a partition utilizing the intake snorkel might give us the best of both worlds!

I dont really know how to compare the different boost controllers as i dont know how to compare a dyno sheet in RPM to KM/H so perhaps someone would like to examine it for me.

There is no 100% secure result as there are too many sliding variables but i found it pretty cool!

Thankyou to Rob, Daniel and the rest of the boys at CREATD motorsport! He went above and beyond for a tidy setup, expert tune and treated the car as if it was his own. So if anyone is looking for an expert tuner, I highly recommend them and have their contact details in my signature.

post-4266-1221127307_thumb.jpg

post-4266-1221127284_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235700-johnnys-dyno-results-2/
Share on other sites

nice results mate would like to ask what mods have got to the motor

Thanks mate, just a catback zorst, pods, power fc and EBC

As i asked

Did you removed the side panel out of the airbox? Which restricts it and must be removed?

Did you try taking the panel filter out entirely? (just to properly test restrictions?)

Not exactly sure what your asking but here is a pic of the setup

post-4266-1221129220_thumb.jpg

here it is now

post-4266-1221129381_thumb.jpg

i'm not seeing a lot of difference between the boost curves there. You have the same shaped ramp onto boost and even have the same slight creep up to 1 bar at the top end. earlier or later response can come down to what revs the operator loads up the car.

Also 2 different dynos 4 months apart doesn't really prove much at all to be honest. And 2 different types of dyno at that. And neither is showing the correction data!

I don't want to sound negative, but we have nothing to make a direct comparison with, even the scales are different.

Thanks guys so far for the analysis and thoughts! Like said there are too many sliding variables to my testing so a 100% proven theory is not on the cards but im very happy with the results and the car is fabulous to drive!

I wrote up this thread because this is a forum for skyline enthusiasts and i hope some people enjoyed the read/results.

dear god that car looks f**king mean

good to see an improvement though, and you reckon driveability is heaps better?

i want a bit more driveability from the R32. just doesn't have the wall of torque the supra does... but has many more revs :P

was at Status Tuning the other day, we did back to back dyno runs, both with hi-flow panel filter (Blitz) but one with stock airbox lid on, one off. 10rwkw difference. Don't want to go pod, so might "modify" the airbox lid :P

dear god that car looks f**king mean

good to see an improvement though, and you reckon driveability is heaps better?

i want a bit more driveability from the R32. just doesn't have the wall of torque the supra does... but has many more revs :P

Thanks man! Definitely driveability is better 100%

Never driven a supra, would love to feel the difference.

was at Status Tuning the other day, we did back to back dyno runs, both with hi-flow panel filter (Blitz) but one with stock airbox lid on, one off. 10rwkw difference. Don't want to go pod, so might "modify" the airbox lid :)

Thanks for the positive result.

When i was using the airbox i noticed an instant sluggishness once i put the other half of the box back on.

Hey guys,

This thread is an elaboration from Trents (URAS) thread which basically showed the low/midrange gains of a boost solenoid or stepper motor with a properly setup 'Gain" function; Fine control of wastegates.

Thankyou by the way Trent from stopping me buying the power fc boost kit!

Also

The discussion about stock airboxes and whether they proved a restriction from an air velocity, turbulance and volume point.

-First dyno sheet was done on the 2nd of July and made 235awkw at 1bar with an apexi replacement panel filter and bottom half of the airbox removed.

-Boost controler was a HKS EVC version 3 (solenoid)

-Dyno done today made 255awkw at 1 bar with apexi power intake pods

-Boost controller was a new HKS EVC Version 6 (stepper motor)

Both dyno runs were done with the bonnets up so even though there was a gain of 20awkw would we expect a car in bumper to bumper traffic to have higher intake temperatures and therefore lose this power? But one thing is for sure, the addition of a partition utilizing the intake snorkel might give us the best of both worlds!

I dont really know how to compare the different boost controllers as i dont know how to compare a dyno sheet in RPM to KM/H so perhaps someone would like to examine it for me.

There is no 100% secure result as there are too many sliding variables but i found it pretty cool!

Thankyou to Rob, Daniel and the rest of the boys at CREATD motorsport! He went above and beyond for a tidy setup, expert tune and treated the car as if it was his own. So if anyone is looking for an expert tuner, I highly recommend them and have their contact details in my signature.

post-4266-1221127307_thumb.jpg

post-4266-1221127284_thumb.jpg

I can't follow your graphs. You say both runs were at 1 bar of boost but one chart says 15psi (around 1 bar) but the other seems to say 200 kpa (about 2 bar).
was at Status Tuning the other day, we did back to back dyno runs, both with hi-flow panel filter (Blitz) but one with stock airbox lid on, one off. 10rwkw difference. Don't want to go pod, so might "modify" the airbox lid :P

Did you try with the filter off (just outta interest)

Did you try with the filter off (just outta interest)

don't think we did, just with the lid off. Trent then said he may have noticed one of the pipes sucking closed, so we ran again and i tried to watch it, didn't seem to be closing, but plan on doing the 3cm stainless steel insert mod all the same. He mentioned cutting some holes around the lid, and maybe meshing them up so it doesn't look too obvious.

As has been already said - different dynos - different days and neither run with corrections applied or in a industry standard "Shootout mode". So liitle can be made from these graphs and its pointless to try to draw conclusions.

Why dont you try logging AFM voltages on the same day in the same conditions with pods and then with the standard Airbox.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the linkie. Certainly always a great deal of help when people post comparisons like these, but I think for now I'll stay away from any semi slicks. I did go ahead and order the sportcontact 7. My buddy has them on his modified A4 and he keeps saying how good they are. For my intended purposes these will probably work real well. I'll report on them once I had the chance to try them out
    • Talk about noisy. Even when I still had the Tomei under the car I could distinctly hear the tires rolling. And I doubt I ever will need maximum grip like on a track. My GTR will maybe never even see the 600hp mark and I need to get used to the car quite a bit before challenging the limits of its handling. For the next winter storage I think I will get a set of these rubber drive-on thingies that have a tire shaped base. Those supposedly really help prevent flat spots.
    • Well our climate is definitely way less hot overall and the weather can be quite picky at times. I just know that during normal road use or even spirited drives there is no way I'd be able to consistently stay in the operating temperature, and constantly changing the tire pressure would also be a royal pain.
    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
×
×
  • Create New...