Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi,

iv built a Rb30 bottom end with a RB26 head, RB26 head studs have a different diameter and RB30 head studs are two long..

what is the best option?

do you drill n tapp the block? or helicoil or what??

also timing belts...i think we are relocating the tentioner. what size do you need? iv read 152 teeth, but is this 100%? does anyone hav any info that could help me out?? this car has been off the road for a year now n im really keen on getting my engine it.. would be greatly appreciated

thanks

phone number: 0416 53 58 50 or reply

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236432-rb3026-head-studs-help-please/
Share on other sites

hi,

iv built a Rb30 bottom end with a RB26 head, RB26 head studs have a different diameter and RB30 head studs are two long..

what is the best option?

do you drill n tapp the block? or helicoil or what??

also timing belts...i think we are relocating the tentioner. what size do you need? iv read 152 teeth, but is this 100%? does anyone hav any info that could help me out?? this car has been off the road for a year now n im really keen on getting my engine it.. would be greatly appreciated

thanks

phone number: 0416 53 58 50 or reply

Drill and tap the block

Justjap in Sydney ( i think) keeps the belts in stock for RB 26/30 conversions. seen em advertized with other retailers aswell.

Drill and tap the block

Justjap in Sydney ( i think) keeps the belts in stock for RB 26/30 conversions. seen em advertized with other retailers aswell.

You can't drill and tap the block from 11mm to 12mm! The thread will never clean up. You can helicoil it. I'm not sure what others have done.

Cheers

Marty

You certainly can drill and tap the thread. You need to drill to 10.5mm, and drill the recess at the top of the hole to 12mm(this is vital) then tap the holes to M12 x 1.5. The new thread will follow the old thread. Another easier option (especially if the motor is assembled) is to use rb25 head studs, they are the correct thread for the rb30 block and the correct length for the rb26 head, you must ensure the 2 dowels are in though.

152 teeth is correct depending on the location of the second tensioner.

(low and high)

You certainly can drill and tap the thread. You need to drill to 10.5mm, and drill the recess at the top of the hole to 12mm(this is vital) then tap the holes to M12 x 1.5. The new thread will follow the old thread. Another easier option (especially if the motor is assembled) is to use rb25 head studs, they are the correct thread for the rb30 block and the correct length for the rb26 head, you must ensure the 2 dowels are in though.

I don't have a thread chart in front of me to check but I wouldn't have thought you could get the 11mm to clean up nicely to tap 12mm. As long as they chase the pitch correctly when tapping I guess you can do it. I would probably save the headache and use the RB25 head studs. That way it also stops the flimsy RB30 deck from warping when you try clamping down the 12mm studs to 85 foot pound.

Cheers

Marty

i personally wouldnt re-tap the thread for the bigger studs. i'd use rb25 studs. the more thickness u can leave in the block the better

as martin said. ~0.75mm isn't ideal to cut a new thread in, however that said ppl have re-cut them without any dramas.

  • 2 weeks later...
With over 40 x RB30's built since 1999, I would always use ARP (RB26) head studs.

Cheers

Gary

gary have you used a similar method as adriano has explained?? or can you recomend a different approach to the process

You 'could' tap the block to 12mm but from experience I can tell you it its perfectly fine to run 11mm RB25 head studs with a 26 head.

I've done alot of miles and drags with a best of 8.71 @ 162 with 11mm studs, over 1000hp, never had a problem.

Rob

  • Like 2

i use 1/2" arp head studs in my 26/30, my machiner actually got them from a US car i have to ask him again for the exact details, lucky as he deals with the old school muscle cars just as much as jap cars they were perfect length

ben...

i use 1/2" arp head studs in my 26/30, my machiner actually got them from a US car i have to ask him again for the exact details, lucky as he deals with the old school muscle cars just as much as jap cars they were perfect length

ben...

In our experience using 1/2 inch studs in the RB30 block cause the deck to distort when torqued as you need to be around 100 foot pound. The RB30 has a thinner deck than it's little brothers (RB25/26) and the largest size we have sucessfully seen is 12mm (slightly smaller than 1/2 inch). For ease of fitment the RB25 work fine.

Cheers

Marty

  • 2 months later...
  • 4 years later...

Can i please ask if anyone has ever had a drama with using rb25 arp head studs in a RB26/30.
And if you havent had any dramas what power and boost were you running with the 25studs.

Wish my builder told me about this before we got 3/4 through building the engine... im abit worried about running the rb25 head studs..

Only gna be running around 26psi or so through GT-SS with larger rear housings on e85 and higher com, type b poncams, ported etc etc..

Should be around the 400kw flat mark if im lucky....

But im kind of pissed off because i have ibeam rods and what not now i feel like the rb25 head studs is my weakest link ! :@
Now if i want to go a single or something in the future im gna feel like its just gna pop.

Can i please ask if anyone has ever had a drama with using rb25 arp head studs in a RB26/30.

And if you havent had any dramas what power and boost were you running with the 25studs.

Wish my builder told me about this before we got 3/4 through building the engine... im abit worried about running the rb25 head studs..

Only gna be running around 26psi or so through GT-SS with larger rear housings on e85 and higher com, type b poncams, ported etc etc..

Should be around the 400kw flat mark if im lucky....

But im kind of pissed off because i have ibeam rods and what not now i feel like the rb25 head studs is my weakest link ! :@

Now if i want to go a single or something in the future im gna feel like its just gna pop.

Read the post by rips a few up. I wouldn't worry at all about using rb25 head studs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...