Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Even better (I didn't realize he had the car on a dyno dynamics with the -7 set up)...

164rwkw @ 4500rpm

6NOg6l.jpg

205rwkw @ 4500rpm

0zO4Zl.jpg

From other graphs on dyno dynamics his set up does look down by 40odd rwkw at 4500rpm but that still does not cover the 100hp it has improved with the 35R

Here's a decent -7 result, more boost could've been used but stayed conservative (98 BP PULP);

Terry-42.jpg

This is a silly comparison anyway, a 35R is designed to make more power than 7's ever will so of course its going to seem lazy and have a bigger top end. Anyone who doesn't understand that should give up modifying cars right now.

This is a silly comparison anyway, a 35R is designed to make more power than 7's ever will so of course its going to seem lazy and have a bigger top end. Anyone who doesn't understand that should give up modifying cars right now.

But the previous dyno graph shows the 35R has more response and more top end over the -7s??

Even better (I didn't realize he had the car on a dyno dynamics with the -7 set up)...

164rwkw @ 4500rpm

6NOg6l.jpg

205rwkw @ 4500rpm

0zO4Zl.jpg

From other graphs on dyno dynamics his set up does look down by 40odd rwkw at 4500rpm but that still does not cover the 100hp it has improved with the 35R

Do you have the 35R one in RPM vs boost?

i know it may sound like a "how long is a piece of string" question but how much boost would you run on a healthy standard internal rb26 with -7's? im currently at 19psi @ 296rwkw, thought 20ish psi is the safe limit? and you cant run much more then 21-22psi? on pump fuel ofcoarse...

You mean the one where we know the setup wasn't running properly?

Your "decent" -7 set up is making 25rwkw more at 4500rpm that the one that "wasn't running properly". Funnily enough the GT35R makes 74rwkw more at the same rpm...

Your "decent" -7 set up is making 25rwkw more at 4500rpm that the one that "wasn't running properly".

Yeah great - so that's agreed

Funnily enough the GT35R makes 74rwkw more at the same rpm...

Maybe i've missed something here (and it's looking that way), but explain please how you got 74rwkw difference between the two at the same rpm - I simply cant see where the numbers come from for this 35R.

Do you have the graph in RPM vs Boost please?

Maybe i've missed something here (and it's looking that way), but explain please how you got 74rwkw difference between the two at the same rpm - I simply cant see where the numbers come from for this 35R.

Do you have the graph in RPM vs Boost please?

7TYI8l.jpg

At 4500 the -7's are making around 210hp (157kw) and the GT35R is making around 320hp (239kw), so it's actually more like 82kw.

No idea about boost vs RPM, it's snozzle's graph so maybe ask him :)

Edited by SimonR32

7TYI8l.jpg

At 4500 the -7's are making around 210hp (157kw) and the GT35R is making around 320hp (239kw), so it's actually more like 82kw.

No idea about boost vs RPM, it's snozzle's graph so maybe ask him :)

Ah ok now I see where.

Lets compare that 35R result vs the one I put up then, the 35R is close enough to 239kw and the 7's are close enough to 230kw.

So for a bolt on set of turbos, vs new oil and/or water lines, dump pipe, exhaust manifold, intake piping, turbo to FMIC piping etc, with a goal of 300 odd rwkw (remembering which thread this is), the 7's win on cost while they come in an ever so slight second place to power in midrange.

A 35R will go so much further power wise than the goal of this thread, so IMO for 300 odd rwkw throw a set of 7's on at 23/24psi and with the other basic supporting mods the owner is there.

EDIT: Checking my last graph, i'm at a touch over 260rwkw at 4500rpm with the EBC turned off. Hooray for low end :)

Ah ok now I see where.

Lets compare that 35R result vs the one I put up then, the 35R is close enough to 239kw and the 7's are close enough to 230kw.

So for a bolt on set of turbos, vs new oil and/or water lines, dump pipe, exhaust manifold, intake piping, turbo to FMIC piping etc, with a goal of 300 odd rwkw (remembering which thread this is), the 7's win on cost while they come in an ever so slight second place to power in midrange.

A 35R will go so much further power wise than the goal of this thread, so IMO for 300 odd rwkw throw a set of 7's on at 23/24psi and with the other basic supporting mods the owner is there.

EDIT: Checking my last graph, i'm at a touch over 260rwkw at 4500rpm with the EBC turned off. Hooray for low end :)

I would be going a 3076R for 300rwkw and you would only need 19psi :) They are so much better than a GT35R!

Plus I think you will find the cost comparison would be fairly similar, how much do you think it would cost from filter to cat to get the twins going?

Checking my last graph I'm at around 270rwkw at 4500rpm with 500cc less that you :P

are the -9s really that much better then the -7s?

If you only want 300kw, then the extra $400 for the -9s is a waste of money. If you want to go past 320kw, then they're the right choice.

are the -9s really that much better then the -7s?

I've had both, I prefer -9s over -7s. Some say it may make no difference but if I were to buying another turbos I'd go for -9s.

ive checked the specs on -9s and -7s and they're identical apart from the comp wheel & trim.

so for example if at 19psi, the -7s will make 290kw, what will the -9s make on the same boost?

is the -9s the same response as the -7 or slightly laggier?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
×
×
  • Create New...