Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Given that current exchange rates have pushed the price of tomei oil pumps un near the 2k mark - I was wondering if there is any other options to upgrading the oil pump on my RB26. I have heard some talk of a CNC'd Pump Gear assembley that is larger and manufactured from better material than the stock and N1 oil pumps(??). The other thing is I assume there is more than just the gear assembley to upgrage... e.g can a stock or N1 housing be machined to accept the larger gear and so on....

RB26OILPUMP1.jpg

Thoughts?

Edited by Antimatter
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240582-rb26-oil-pump-gears/
Share on other sites

Given that current exchange rates have pushed the price of tomei oil pumps un near the 2k mark - I was wondering if there is any other options to upgrading the oil pump on my RB26. I have heard some talk of a CNC'd Pump Gear assembley that is larger and manufactured from better material than the stock and N1 oil pumps(??). The other thing is I assume there is more than just the gear assembley to upgrage... e.g can a stock or N1 housing be machined to accept the larger gear and so on....

RB26OILPUMP1.jpg

Thoughts?

I think it is a great idea if it is possible for the pump housing to suit the strengthened (possibly larger) gears. Buy a new N1 pump (or possibly standard) and replace the gears with some CNC machined ones out of some very tough alloy would be a viable option. Also, because the pump does not have an increased flow rate (like the Jun and Tomei ones) you may not have to worry so much about increasing the capacity of your sump (less $$$).

Not sure how everything fits into the pump but you would want to have an idea on the tolerances for the gears other wise you will end up that famous creek without a paddle.

Oil pump gears to suit RB pumps are not too far away....being manufactured as i type this

You are a good one for keeping secrets Paul, and releasing bits of information, haha.

- What material?

- Where did you get the design from?

- How do you know what tolerance to machine to?

I am sure there are more... that should keep everyone going.

Uh huh........

Actually they quoted me $550, just had a look at the email I had a while back.

From an email I recieved from power tune:

Yes, they are modelled on the N1 gear set so are exactly the same size.

The difference between our gear set is the material they are made from which is a pre-hardened alloy composite and as such does not require heat treatment.

As a performance part, we regret that we cannot offer warranty. We developed these gear sets out of necessity as many of our customers had broken so many of the N1 gear sets.

We made our first set in 2006. It was put into a 400kw GTR and is going strong.

if theres genuine demand i could push production of mine?

billetoz08cr1.th.jpgbilletoz07mr9.th.jpg

A complete new Pump incuding housing ?

Or just a new set of 77mm N1 Pump Gears ?

The best thing about this idea is the option of Gear upgrades for those that bought N1 pumps and don't want to get rid of them, but are scared to use them without the upgraded gears.

I am not sure if a redesigned pump would sit with enough confidence with most people.

Allan

Edited by JD74

if you want to upgrade your pump gears but the reimax ones. they are the best. they make the gears for group A race cars etc. formerly reinik.

http://www.reimax.co.jp/pages/products/lower-area.html

up till a few weeks ago they were about $550 too, bit more now with the bad exchange rate though. but they are good stuff. I know a few people who have used them in pumps both here and in japan with good results.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...