Jump to content
SAU Community

Warming Up Your Car - Right Or Wrong?

83CKS

By 83CKS,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

The only reason its going to foul the plugs, is repeated cold starts & short drives.

ie, get in car, drive 5mins, turn off. Drive 5mins 4 hrs later, turn off etc.

Obviously ive exaggerated it a tad, but over the course of 3-4 weeks, lots of 'mini' drives on cold start does have potential to foul plugs.

Just let it sit for 30 secs, give you time to do your seatbelt up, check the oil pressure gauge is doing its thing, and any other warnings that might pop up...

and off ya go

gfunkk Rising Star

gfunkk

Posted
Posted

people say that if you start your car and let it idle for 5 mins, the petrol gets through the piston rings and into your oil

+1 for gentle driving

on this note, its not about coolant reaching operating temp, its about oil reaching operating temp.

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

A bit off the thread but...

The only cars I've ever had to warm up (out of the 30 in my 40 yr driving life) were my precious

Alfetta GTV and

Alfa Romeo 164 Quadrifogglio

what with...

i) oil leaks

ii) exhaust manifold working itself loose from the block through different expansion rates in metal on warm up

iii) blowing universal joints

Why did I get a 2nd Alfa??

Slow Learner! Lolz. I laugh at the times that Jeremy Clarkson says that you have to own an Alfa to be passionate about cars.

What I've learnt is that by owning an Alfa, you learn how to become stoic and patient with its faults.

Tez

PS Why even my Alfa Romeo umbrella developed holes - yeh, gave it away to anothet Alfa owner. Needless to say, he's a slower learner than I am!! ;)

r32line Mentor

r32line

Posted
Posted

I would NOT use the water temp gauge as an indiction of when your car is warm.

My water temp gauge comes up to mid way and the oil temp gauge has not even moved!

It takes 7mins of easy driving to bring everything up to temp. Warming a car by letting it idle for 5 mins as people have suggested it waste of time.

Marco-R34GTT Grand Master

Marco-R34GTT

Posted
Posted

I know that piston/cylinder glazing is an issue with heavy diesel vehicles (tractors, trucks ect ect), but I don't think it is a big issue with petrol engine, or even automotive diesels for that matter... I think it is more of a load issue more than anything, but don't take my word on it..

cuppas Community Regular

cuppas

Posted
Posted

why bother waiting for oil and water temps to reach optimum?

the oils you use are multigrade winter-suitable oils... the coolant is designed to transfer heat away from the head etc... the ecu is programmed to fuel differently at different temperatures...

as for oil on the walls... the piston rings are supposed to keep the oil on one side and the combustion on the other... on downstrokes theyre designed to angle slightly to scrape oil off the cylinder walls...

if im wrong, someone please correct me on this

im thinking the only time you really need to let your car idle for a while is with forgies that get piston slap at cold temps

Bankzy Newbie

Bankzy

Posted
Posted
Thats awesome!! :D

Thanks so much everyone!!! :P

Hi Guys And Girls it's Bankzy here.

I just joined today, and i thought i might just add to this post.

When sitting in traffic for those of you who don't know this it's actually a good idea

to rev the motor a little and hold revs, maybe say between 1200rpm and 2000rpm in turn creating more coolant to flow

thrue the internals. What this will do is keep the internals cooler. BTW your car is hot Beck.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
yeah. different composition, i forget what of

they expand much more when hot...

depends on clearances, tolerances, piston type etc.

not all forgies are the 'same', different properties for each brand and so on.

a well built motor, shouldnt have any audible 'slap' unless its a crap build IMO

Primordial Grand Master

Primordial

Posted
Posted
I would NOT use the water temp gauge as an indiction of when your car is warm.

My water temp gauge comes up to mid way and the oil temp gauge has not even moved!

It takes 7mins of easy driving to bring everything up to temp. Warming a car by letting it idle for 5 mins as people have suggested it waste of time.

Ditto... I use the oil pressure as a guide until i get some way of reading oil temp (ie. R35, not just a sensor :D)

If the oil pressure rises with revs, oil aint ready!

cuppas Community Regular

cuppas

Posted
Posted
depends on clearances, tolerances, piston type etc.

not all forgies are the 'same', different properties for each brand and so on.

a well built motor, shouldnt have any audible 'slap' unless its a crap build IMO

haha i only learned from a guy at work

has an 80s turbo charade

backyard performance to the max =D

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
I don't see how starting your car and letting it idle at any time could possibly be detrimental to your engine.
Fuel mixture runs rich, not burnt completely, excess fuel dilutes oil. You work out what happens then.

Turn it on, start driving. The engine will warm up MUCH quicker if it is doing some work. You don't need 2-3 minutes to get fluids circulating - if they aren't circulating in the first few seconds of running, then they won't be circulating 2-3 minutes later.

BTW - we discussed this a few months ago!

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
Hi Guys And Girls it's Bankzy here.

I just joined today, and i thought i might just add to this post.

When sitting in traffic for those of you who don't know this it's actually a good idea

to rev the motor a little and hold revs, maybe say between 1200rpm and 2000rpm in turn creating more coolant to flow

thrue the internals. What this will do is keep the internals cooler. BTW your car is hot Beck.

What utter rubbish. At idle, the engine is not doing any meaningful work, therefore it is not generating substantial heat. All you are doing is burning - read 'wasting' - fuel for the sake of burning fuel.

If it was such a good idea, the manufacturers would have designed the ECU's programming to do it for you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...