Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not my car unfortunitly, but another forum members car. I do not want to steal too much of his glory

It will be a turbocharged nissan V8, so it should have plenty of torque.

Ps. I am only half mental. The full metal people are in Darwin :)

Oooooh, I'd so love to find out who this is, but if he wants to wait to reveal who he is and the details of the build, I'm (kinda) fine with that...

No turbo mods, 3 off the turbo back(Mandel not pressed), hi-flow cat, resonator+cannon, K&N panel filter, MiNes ECU(Jap Spec),Super Spark Coils(Work great), Replaced SMIC with a Mint one(See my thread for pics of the old one).

Hasn't seen the dyno yet or the strip. But it faster from standing starts than a 4door Golf GTi, VX SS (aircon on and 3 ppl in the car), couple of turbo Magna's My Celsior made 131kW before the X-pipe, Hi-flow cats, big leads and new plugs.

So fingers crossed for a good dyno resualt.

Did 4 runs to 100km's the other night.

Car: M35 AR-X

Mod's:

Air filter

Exhaust

Conditions:

9 Degree's

fine mist or very light rain

1/4 of a tank of fuel

Skinny bastard mate as passenger. :O

My mate timed from a stop watch in the passenger seat and the GO! was from him.

6.53sec

6.61sec

6.55sec

6.69sec

With those times to 100KM's it should be good for a very low 15sec pass on the quarter...or maybe a high 14! :)

P.S. For all you Dudley Dorights.....it was done on the Freeway at about 3AM....in the 110km zone...with no cars around. :D

Did 4 runs to 100km's the other night.

Car: M35 AR-X

Mod's:

Air filter

Exhaust

Conditions:

9 Degree's

fine mist or very light rain

1/4 of a tank of fuel

Skinny bastard mate as passenger. :D

My mate timed from a stop watch in the passenger seat and the GO! was from him.

6.53sec

6.61sec

6.55sec

6.69sec

With those times to 100KM's it should be good for a very low 15sec pass on the quarter...or maybe a high 14! ;)

P.S. For all you Dudley Dorights.....it was done on the Freeway at about 3AM....in the 110km zone...with no cars around. :ph34r:

Those are pretty good times. By making small increases in timing I got my SI down from 11 sec to 9 sec so i think the timing is too retarded but I'll leave it for now as i have a turbo being highflowed at GCG and will get the car properly tuned on a dyno when it has been installed.

well I drove a rapid stagea last night. 350awkw. RB26 and manual conversion, twin highmounts (look like 2530s or GT-RS maybe), power FC DJETRO, lots of other gear. pretty scary on standard suspension. not very quick under 5,000 but holy shit from 6,000-8,000 i thought it was trying to kill me! I reckon the 350kw feels about as quick as 320 or so in a 32 GTR so should be good for 11s I guess.

this thing:

post-3621-1225349297_thumb.jpg

My old S2 RS V (that is now owned by MIKE) did an Apexi RSM 0-100 time in the high fives - repeatedly. Best was 5.70 stalled on brake to 2500rpm. Quarter time only run once when a little out of tune and ran 14.34 on the RSM. That was with 12psi, GTR 'cooler, only 2.5" exhaust and stock airbox. RWD an less kg's mean much better performance than RS4... With the SAFC2 I put on it, a decent tune, and maybe 14psi on a cold night it would comfortably crack a mid 13 at a sticky track...

C'mon MIKE, do it!

well I drove a rapid stagea last night. 350awkw. RB26 and manual conversion, twin highmounts (look like 2530s or GT-RS maybe), power FC DJETRO, lots of other gear. pretty scary on standard suspension. not very quick under 5,000 but holy shit from 6,000-8,000 i thought it was trying to kill me! I reckon the 350kw feels about as quick as 320 or so in a 32 GTR so should be good for 11s I guess.

this thing:

post-3621-1225349297_thumb.jpg

Awww man, where was my phone call Richard? :)

I hope you got some more photos.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2 spots that my exhaust guy joined the 2 pipes together  Made a big difference. I'm now able to live with it. I can make it louder if I want by removing the HKS caps.
    • Hi all, considering clutch upgrade to support 1130 engine hp from 1650cc injectors on e50 at 85% duty cycle (1650 x (11.85/14.7) x 85%). Narrows down to these three as they can be converted to use gm 26 spline input shaft if I ever want to use transmission with that input shaft (orc1000f and r3c easy/cheap just change center hub; tr2cd pricier must change clutch discs). Pricing orc1000f similar to tr2cd, r3c about usd 200 pricier. Orc1000f triple plate 200mm. Tr2cd twin plate 215mm. R3c triple plate 215mm. Claimed max torque : orc 1000f 723 lbs ft; tr2cd 800 lbs ft; r3c 1100 lbs ft. Why orc1000f triple plate but claims lower max torque vs tr2cd twins? Is orc1000f underrated? Any info maxing out these clutches? Info on street/traffic driveability/pedal feel? Thank you for any info on them.
    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
×
×
  • Create New...