Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 435
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

gotta agree on the hire car trailers being bloody deathtraps, they either have flat tyres, stuffed wheel bearings, too high to get car on, ramps too short, or u cant open the car doors once u get the car on it (dukes of hazard style needed to get out of car lol), they sway at anything over 90kmh and make a usual 40 min trip to the drags etc into a 1 hour + trip. I was towing around a 1730kg car though so that doesnt help :thumbsup: I wish i had room at home to store a trailer, im gonna have to sort something out for the new track car im building.

This is the one I'll eventually be getting. No where to put it at the moment.

post-194-1225423903_thumb.jpg

My cousin makes them and has offered me one for free :-)

Can get some good deals if anyone is interested. (Mods delete if inapropriate)

Heya Bobby, can you PM me some details too please mate?

yeah Neil looked into those. too hard to find and they require the specialist mounts on the deck of the trailer.

Dennis was using a very similar tie down system on his little trailer for his clubman. it had rings mounted on the deck (they fold down flush), and a normal ratchet strap went through them and got tied to the front. mspaint explains....

green is the rings in the deck

blue is the tiedown

red is the ratchet on the tiedown

yellow is a ful sik race car

tiedowns.jpg

the outline of the car including the roof is all dented because Mark drove it, not because I suck at mspaint

I could always just go to 'towie' and buy them from him, but i'd rather know what they are called and an approx price before walking to for those thingies to find they are $1k each.

Yup D-Rings would be the other option for me (much cheaper too at about $20ea). Being a 1 piece fiberglass shell I can't exactly use it as tie down points, everything is located underneath.

Edit: I thought the dented sic car was the chinese copy bodykit you are having fitted to go along with all your other chinese parts?

aa9a27b98e687f96bf4b755c6326b5ab.jpg

Edited by benm

easiest with those shell type cars is a chain and hook under the back to the rear axle (it has live axle right? even if not hook to a control arm) and use the tow hook at the front with a ratchet strap to tighten it all. have to be careful thought we broke the wing support on neil's car by tying down on it.

with the gtr we run 2 chains at the front to the tow hooks, and 1 or 2 ratchet straps through the spokes of the rear tyres and then to the back of the trailer somewhere.

Baron is very close. Some cars use a hollow wheel nut with a fine thread on the outer to screw the adaptor on. You don't have to use long nuts for racing,,,just for transporting.

Benm,,,you are going to learn very fast that you can't just buy all your racing needs off the shelf or the net buddy.

Quick quiz,,,who made them and what car are they on?. No prizes,,,just a test. Duncan you are not allowed to answer.

Neil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...