Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah i think he was talking close to 1k above a normal trailer for the same thing.

You'd probably save in things like fuel if your towing weekly and even wear and tear on the tow car (towing less weight) but if your using it once every few months, then i dunno know.

  • Replies 435
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yea want a r34 gtr

they are the first stepping stone to it

you want 34 GTR, and I want 1 less 34 GTR. we should talk. how many 31s will you give me for it? though I guess in your eyes a good 31 is worth 2 or 3 R34s so I'm probably out of luck...

and on a serious note, 34 wheels are awesome. I had some on my last 32 GTR and loved 'em. and they look hot on S15s too. trying to track down a cheap set for my mate. I bought an S15 for him, and it desperately needs some wheels. it's white too and they look sweet on white.

you want 34 GTR, and I want 1 less 34 GTR. we should talk. how many 31s will you give me for it? though I guess in your eyes a good 31 is worth 2 or 3 R34s so I'm probably out of luck...

and on a serious note, 34 wheels are awesome. I had some on my last 32 GTR and loved 'em. and they look hot on S15s too. trying to track down a cheap set for my mate. I bought an S15 for him, and it desperately needs some wheels. it's white too and they look sweet on white.

Did you buy me a S15 for xmas?

I will go buy some vaseline to repay you :P

I've been looking at trailers for a bit now and I came across this from a magazine, little more expensive than the trailers I have seen in the last 9 pages but it seems good to me.

http://motorsporthauler.com.au/open_haulers.html

It would be used to tow an R32 GTST which would be stripped to the bare minimum for drifting, probably weighing around 1100kg :santa:

What do you guys think? Also im in Darwin so im wondering if there is a hefty delivery charge in there too?

Edited by mitch_SR32
Yeah i think he was talking close to 1k above a normal trailer for the same thing.

You'd probably save in things like fuel if your towing weekly and even wear and tear on the tow car (towing less weight) but if your using it once every few months, then i dunno know.

An all aluminium trailer for 1 grand above a steel trailer,,,I'd like to see that.

I'll take 3 and ship 1 to N.T. for mitch.

Neil.

guys,

wondering if you can give me some advice on which electric winch to have for the trailer, i am looking through the web and there are some many.

What specs should i be looking at to pull up the car?

Rolling it would not be that heavy but thinking if worse comes to worse an crash or cause something that won't let the car roll what will be able to drag it up onto the trailer?

Car - S14a i have not weight it but would be around 1200kg or less.

Matt

we mostly use the cheapy 1000kg/2000lb super cheap ones. around $50-100 and specs similar to:

Specifications:

1) Rolling capacity: 6,000lbs

2) Marine capacity: 5,000lbs

3) Pulling capacity: 2,000lbs

They can be painfully slow but are adequate for pulling even a heavy car up. We have used them for cars with good wheels/flat or broken wheels/on dollies or jacks/no wheels(dragging).

We have now upgraded to something bigger but even the cheapest ones are good enough to drag up a skyline.

The new winch is 2000kg stationery, something like 6t rolling.

Got it when

a/ we didn't have a winch

b/ the car we had to move rolled 6 times and had 2 wheel torn off.

Its overkill though the small ones are fine.

sounds like you guys might need to invest in a flat bed truck with a high-abb.

The new winch is 2000kg stationery, something like 6t rolling.

Got it when

a/ we didn't have a winch

b/ the car we had to move rolled 6 times and had 2 wheel torn off.

Its overkill though the small ones are fine.

Hook and keeper or s-hook ratchets and why?

My tie down points (eye bolts) are suited nicely for s-hook but not at all for hook and keeper style ratchets. I could use a d-shackle to make it ideal but I see plenty of s-hook style ratchets that are easily rated above what I need.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
×
×
  • Create New...