Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I did a little research vis SAU Search, as i am supposed to :P, but didnt quite find out exactly what i wanted to know.

I have been having a few little problems with boost creep.

For reference:

R33 GTSt, 58,000km

HKS High Power Silent CatBack

De-Cat pipe

JJR Split Dump/front

Blitz LM FMIC

Apex'i Power Intake pod filter,

I had the same issues as everyone else did with the split design JJR rubbish, causing the wastegate to catch on the inside. And i had that rectified so that was good.

I noticed straight away it seemed to be better, as on the racetrack the boost was only creeping very high in the RPM range to around .8bar (12ish psi?), but dropping back quickly, and only in 3rd/4th full throttle. Wasnt to concerned with it as it was only hitting 12psi briefly.

Lately i have noticed a little more creeping. The other night i was hitting 1.0bar in 2nd/3rd/4th in the high RPM area. Not good.

Im going to try the R32 Actuator and see how it goes, and if it still creeps like it has been recently, im going to go back to OEM Dump/Front. If it fixes it, im taking to the JJR one with a sledge, or selling it to someone else to have the probem with :P

1) After installing an R32 Actuator onto an R33 RB25, you DO need to disconnect, and remove the Stock Solenoid, correct? And just replace the vac line where the solenoid would have been.

I was only ever wating to run 10psi on the stock turbo so figured the actuator a good place to get it without investing in a good controller. (possibly what i need??)

And while im here,

2) Where is the most sensible place to take a boost reading for a gauge?

I have an Apex'i EL2 Electronic gauge (fantastic piece of work!), and i "Tee'd" it into the short line going to the FRP, as per the Apex'i instructions. Im guessing Apex'i generally know what theyre talking about, but thought id ask what others have done.

Any other info would be appreciated too.

Thanks alot.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243099-r32-actuator-rb25/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yes, if you fit r32 actuator, you will get 10psi flat without solenoid hooked up, or with solenoid you might end up with 12-14psi at the switchover point and above which will cause the factory ecu airflow limiter to kick in, if you have standard ecu. (retard timing, run rich)

boost reading, should be taken from the plenum or post intercooler for best results.

go on the turbo or pre intercooler and the boost will be lower at the engine because of the pressure drop alot of cores will have across them. (factory coolers atleast)

one last thing, only reason you can have boost creep is if the wastegate is a.) to small or b.) wastegate flap is not opening or gases are restricted.

i.e. if it's a standard turbo, that dump pipe is a piece of shit, stock dumps/turbos, do not boost creep.

Agreed

10psi, then theoretically 12psi over 4500revs (?)

Try it, if you don't like it, remove the solenoid setup and stick to 10psi across the rev range.

For my boost guage on the R33, i nicked the standard boost sensor spot on the plenum, no problemo

Just a dead needle on the standard dash, but a sexy Blitz going nuts on my steering column!

EDIT: oh yeah, and i'm using the R32 actuator

Edited by Birnie

Hey Mate,

I dont think everyone is having boost creep problems, ive had my split dump for over 2 yrs with no problems at all btw its not a JJR one and i wont advertise which brand as i had fitting issues that cost me time and money. I would definitely fit the the RB20 actuator as i have and also use a bleed valve/boost controller bypass the solenoid. Leave the solenoid bolted up and try and have your boost controller out of sight ie under turbo inlet hose. I gained 20kw at the wheels with mine so it was worthwhile im running 10psi with no creep at all. I would suggest you check all your hoses and tee's for leaks which may also cause boost creep,.....Just one question about the JJR split dump....does it have a separator on the flange? cheers

i cant talk from experience, but i have read on SAU a few other threds getting around about boost creep in the high rpm range and that this was caused by the split dump setup. something to do with the way the wastegate exhaust line was plumbed back into the dump pipe, when in high rpm the pressure from the dump pipe must be overcoming the wastegate exhaust gas pressure and not allow the wastegated gas to flow.

might be something worth looking into.

i cant talk from experience, but i have read on SAU a few other threds getting around about boost creep in the high rpm range and that this was caused by the split dump setup. something to do with the way the wastegate exhaust line was plumbed back into the dump pipe, when in high rpm the pressure from the dump pipe must be overcoming the wastegate exhaust gas pressure and not allow the wastegated gas to flow.

might be something worth looking into.

You know i did wonder this, the pressure from the dump pipe would be insane. I also read it somewhere too. I might end up modding the JJR one further if it will work out cheaper than getting another one. that, or stock.

skyguy61, kinda doesnt really matter, as the JJR ones are the ones that people are having issues with creep.

I will get onto the R32 actuator and get rid of the stock solenoid all together. Sounds like the best bet.

And if i had a boost controller, i dont need to hide it. NZ Government doesnt f**k us up the ass yet for mods :) (yet). WE get away with no cat, ext bovs, pod + FMIC etc. Just no screamers. But so long as you dont open them up going past cops it doesnt really matter either.

Thanks for all the replys. Will keep checking back incase there are other inputs.

EDIT: Ultimate GTR.. might want to update your sig.. whats a HONDIA? :P Had One Never Do Again... Try that if you want to flack the "H" haha

Edited by gotRICE?

Hey Got Rice,

Fair enuff your lucky you dont have to bother with mods in NZ, How about asking Just Jap for a refund for their crappy designed spilt dump made in china by a mongul... lol all da best.

Hey Got Rice,

Fair enuff your lucky you dont have to bother with mods in NZ, How about asking Just Jap for a refund for their crappy designed spilt dump made in china by a mongul... lol all da best.

It would be ideal, i dont know if anyone has ever done it before. I do wonder, as i have only heard a few good responses, to the 100's of negative. Have had the pipe too long to get a refund lol.

Hey guys, just wanted to confirm if this is the correct way to re-hose the setup.

Just installed the R32 actuator and ditched the boost solenoid.

Actuator.jpg

Is this correct? Or should i blank off the hose that goes to the BOV return?

Hey guys, just wanted to confirm if this is the correct way to re-hose the setup.

Just installed the R32 actuator and ditched the boost solenoid.

Actuator.jpg

Is this correct? Or should i blank off the hose that goes to the BOV return?

Looks good to me. When i did it with the standard actuator spring I moved the restrictor into the line that goes to the bov return line and altered the size of the restrictor (bigger for more boost smaller for less). I don't know how it goes with the 10lb spring I guess you could experiment or maybe others who have done it can tell you. I am also getting an R32actuator on my high flow but I now have a Jaycar IEBC.

i cant talk from experience, but i have read on SAU a few other threds getting around about boost creep in the high rpm range and that this was caused by the split dump setup. something to do with the way the wastegate exhaust line was plumbed back into the dump pipe, when in high rpm the pressure from the dump pipe must be overcoming the wastegate exhaust gas pressure and not allow the wastegated gas to flow.

might be something worth looking into.

that doesnt make sense, either way, the wastegate will have to open into the dump pipe. so it will still be seeing the pressure from the turbo's exhaust. in a split pipe it will just be mixing further away. by my reasoning it should be worse in a belmouth as its hittin straight away

So the Bit with the restrictor is needed? I did a n00b and left it at the store when i got a new piece of hose... doh.

Im no expert, but i thought that seeing as im just running the r32 actuator with no solenoid i wouldnt need one? (this is just me saying this so i dont have to go get it..)

COrrect me tho! and ill go get it back!

Edited by gotRICE?

all you want is a hose connected from the intercooler pipe to the actuator, simple, because it is.

block the bov return vac pipe fitting thing you have, use a bit of hose and jamb a tight fitting screw/bolt into the end if you don't have a proper blanking plug for the vacuum nipple.

it will overboost the way you have it up there, because the pressure will bleed off into the bov return pipe before it gets to the actuator.

it will overboost the way you have it up there, because the pressure will bleed off into the bov return pipe before it gets to the actuator.

That, makes alot of sence!!!

I just went for a drive, and it is still spiking to near enough the same boost it was. So i will try this (it is what i thought should be done in the 1st place.. one long sleepless night thinking about it :blink: ).

If it still does it.. stock dump pipe.. see if that helps.

Thanks alot

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...