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R32 Actuator --> Rb25

gotRICE?

By gotRICE?,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted

I did a little research vis SAU Search, as i am supposed to :P, but didnt quite find out exactly what i wanted to know.

I have been having a few little problems with boost creep.

For reference:

R33 GTSt, 58,000km

HKS High Power Silent CatBack

De-Cat pipe

JJR Split Dump/front

Blitz LM FMIC

Apex'i Power Intake pod filter,

I had the same issues as everyone else did with the split design JJR rubbish, causing the wastegate to catch on the inside. And i had that rectified so that was good.

I noticed straight away it seemed to be better, as on the racetrack the boost was only creeping very high in the RPM range to around .8bar (12ish psi?), but dropping back quickly, and only in 3rd/4th full throttle. Wasnt to concerned with it as it was only hitting 12psi briefly.

Lately i have noticed a little more creeping. The other night i was hitting 1.0bar in 2nd/3rd/4th in the high RPM area. Not good.

Im going to try the R32 Actuator and see how it goes, and if it still creeps like it has been recently, im going to go back to OEM Dump/Front. If it fixes it, im taking to the JJR one with a sledge, or selling it to someone else to have the probem with :P

1) After installing an R32 Actuator onto an R33 RB25, you DO need to disconnect, and remove the Stock Solenoid, correct? And just replace the vac line where the solenoid would have been.

I was only ever wating to run 10psi on the stock turbo so figured the actuator a good place to get it without investing in a good controller. (possibly what i need??)

And while im here,

2) Where is the most sensible place to take a boost reading for a gauge?

I have an Apex'i EL2 Electronic gauge (fantastic piece of work!), and i "Tee'd" it into the short line going to the FRP, as per the Apex'i instructions. Im guessing Apex'i generally know what theyre talking about, but thought id ask what others have done.

Any other info would be appreciated too.

Thanks alot.

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RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

yes, if you fit r32 actuator, you will get 10psi flat without solenoid hooked up, or with solenoid you might end up with 12-14psi at the switchover point and above which will cause the factory ecu airflow limiter to kick in, if you have standard ecu. (retard timing, run rich)

boost reading, should be taken from the plenum or post intercooler for best results.

go on the turbo or pre intercooler and the boost will be lower at the engine because of the pressure drop alot of cores will have across them. (factory coolers atleast)

one last thing, only reason you can have boost creep is if the wastegate is a.) to small or b.) wastegate flap is not opening or gases are restricted.

i.e. if it's a standard turbo, that dump pipe is a piece of shit, stock dumps/turbos, do not boost creep.

Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
Posted (edited)

Agreed

10psi, then theoretically 12psi over 4500revs (?)

Try it, if you don't like it, remove the solenoid setup and stick to 10psi across the rev range.

For my boost guage on the R33, i nicked the standard boost sensor spot on the plenum, no problemo

Just a dead needle on the standard dash, but a sexy Blitz going nuts on my steering column!

EDIT: oh yeah, and i'm using the R32 actuator

Edited by Birnie
skyguy61 Collaborator

skyguy61

Posted
Posted

Hey Mate,

I dont think everyone is having boost creep problems, ive had my split dump for over 2 yrs with no problems at all btw its not a JJR one and i wont advertise which brand as i had fitting issues that cost me time and money. I would definitely fit the the RB20 actuator as i have and also use a bleed valve/boost controller bypass the solenoid. Leave the solenoid bolted up and try and have your boost controller out of sight ie under turbo inlet hose. I gained 20kw at the wheels with mine so it was worthwhile im running 10psi with no creep at all. I would suggest you check all your hoses and tee's for leaks which may also cause boost creep,.....Just one question about the JJR split dump....does it have a separator on the flange? cheers

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

i cant talk from experience, but i have read on SAU a few other threds getting around about boost creep in the high rpm range and that this was caused by the split dump setup. something to do with the way the wastegate exhaust line was plumbed back into the dump pipe, when in high rpm the pressure from the dump pipe must be overcoming the wastegate exhaust gas pressure and not allow the wastegated gas to flow.

might be something worth looking into.

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
i cant talk from experience, but i have read on SAU a few other threds getting around about boost creep in the high rpm range and that this was caused by the split dump setup. something to do with the way the wastegate exhaust line was plumbed back into the dump pipe, when in high rpm the pressure from the dump pipe must be overcoming the wastegate exhaust gas pressure and not allow the wastegated gas to flow.

might be something worth looking into.

You know i did wonder this, the pressure from the dump pipe would be insane. I also read it somewhere too. I might end up modding the JJR one further if it will work out cheaper than getting another one. that, or stock.

skyguy61, kinda doesnt really matter, as the JJR ones are the ones that people are having issues with creep.

I will get onto the R32 actuator and get rid of the stock solenoid all together. Sounds like the best bet.

And if i had a boost controller, i dont need to hide it. NZ Government doesnt f**k us up the ass yet for mods :) (yet). WE get away with no cat, ext bovs, pod + FMIC etc. Just no screamers. But so long as you dont open them up going past cops it doesnt really matter either.

Thanks for all the replys. Will keep checking back incase there are other inputs.

EDIT: Ultimate GTR.. might want to update your sig.. whats a HONDIA? :P Had One Never Do Again... Try that if you want to flack the "H" haha

Edited by gotRICE?
skyguy61 Collaborator

skyguy61

Posted
Posted

Hey Got Rice,

Fair enuff your lucky you dont have to bother with mods in NZ, How about asking Just Jap for a refund for their crappy designed spilt dump made in china by a mongul... lol all da best.

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hey Got Rice,

Fair enuff your lucky you dont have to bother with mods in NZ, How about asking Just Jap for a refund for their crappy designed spilt dump made in china by a mongul... lol all da best.

It would be ideal, i dont know if anyone has ever done it before. I do wonder, as i have only heard a few good responses, to the 100's of negative. Have had the pipe too long to get a refund lol.

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey guys, just wanted to confirm if this is the correct way to re-hose the setup.

Just installed the R32 actuator and ditched the boost solenoid.

Actuator.jpg

Is this correct? Or should i blank off the hose that goes to the BOV return?

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
Hey guys, just wanted to confirm if this is the correct way to re-hose the setup.

Just installed the R32 actuator and ditched the boost solenoid.

Actuator.jpg

Is this correct? Or should i blank off the hose that goes to the BOV return?

Looks good to me. When i did it with the standard actuator spring I moved the restrictor into the line that goes to the bov return line and altered the size of the restrictor (bigger for more boost smaller for less). I don't know how it goes with the 10lb spring I guess you could experiment or maybe others who have done it can tell you. I am also getting an R32actuator on my high flow but I now have a Jaycar IEBC.

Basti Grand Master

Basti

Posted
Posted
i cant talk from experience, but i have read on SAU a few other threds getting around about boost creep in the high rpm range and that this was caused by the split dump setup. something to do with the way the wastegate exhaust line was plumbed back into the dump pipe, when in high rpm the pressure from the dump pipe must be overcoming the wastegate exhaust gas pressure and not allow the wastegated gas to flow.

might be something worth looking into.

that doesnt make sense, either way, the wastegate will have to open into the dump pipe. so it will still be seeing the pressure from the turbo's exhaust. in a split pipe it will just be mixing further away. by my reasoning it should be worse in a belmouth as its hittin straight away

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

So the Bit with the restrictor is needed? I did a n00b and left it at the store when i got a new piece of hose... doh.

Im no expert, but i thought that seeing as im just running the r32 actuator with no solenoid i wouldnt need one? (this is just me saying this so i dont have to go get it..)

COrrect me tho! and ill go get it back!

Edited by gotRICE?
RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

all you want is a hose connected from the intercooler pipe to the actuator, simple, because it is.

block the bov return vac pipe fitting thing you have, use a bit of hose and jamb a tight fitting screw/bolt into the end if you don't have a proper blanking plug for the vacuum nipple.

it will overboost the way you have it up there, because the pressure will bleed off into the bov return pipe before it gets to the actuator.

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
  • Author
Posted
it will overboost the way you have it up there, because the pressure will bleed off into the bov return pipe before it gets to the actuator.

That, makes alot of sence!!!

I just went for a drive, and it is still spiking to near enough the same boost it was. So i will try this (it is what i thought should be done in the 1st place.. one long sleepless night thinking about it :blink: ).

If it still does it.. stock dump pipe.. see if that helps.

Thanks alot

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