Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Getting Too Hot

FATGTS-R

By FATGTS-R,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

FATGTS-R Experienced

FATGTS-R

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

This is my situation. My car takes a very very long time to get up to operating temp. It never used to do that.

During the colder months it can take over 10 minutes or 10kms to get close to a quarter on the gauge but it didnt overheat.

Now that the weather is warmer it is still taking way too long to get to temp but when it does it just keeps climbing. Sitting still in traffic on a warm day it can peg 95 degrees according to ecu. If I sat there on the spot and bring the revs up it would drop it a couple degrees.

Today in Vic it was warm again and it got hot. Popped the bonnet to let some heat out when I got home and pulled the throttle to see if I could hear the clutch fan engaged. The fan engaged fine untill I noticed that the lower radiator hose was being sucked flat!!

This wasnt at high rpm either, jiust a quick flick of the throttle would have it collapse.

Now I assumed that the radiator must be blocked. But the radiator was recoed around 20,000kms ago and also if the radiator was blocked wouldn't it get to operating temp very fast rather than very slow?

The other symptom it has is that after shutdown I can hear a "gulping" sound through the system but I have flushed and bled the system many times and never been able to get rid of it?

Obviously, I will be replacing the lower hose with a new one but could all the above symptoms be caused by a simple rubber hose thats too old?

thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244390-car-getting-too-hot/
Share on other sites
BANGN Experienced

BANGN

Posted
Posted

First things first, replace all the other water hoses on the car as they are now pretty much cactus since its gotten hot otherwise one by one they will split over time and cost u money in tow's home.

secondly if water is not getting through the system its not going to be able to read temperature properly, IE no water in the system is going to read low or mid temp until it gets a bit of water through and WAM temp gauge goes up fast.

I would be replacing that hose for starters and replacing your thermostat, aftermarket thermostats jam shut where as genuine thermostats jam open and could be shut to the point its creating vacum in the system. That hose must be really screwed however to suck inwards that much.

if water takes a long time to flow through the rad its an indication its blocked but since u have reco'd it I doubt thats the case.

are you loosing water at all?

FATGTS-R Experienced

FATGTS-R

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No,not losing a drop of water.

And I researched a little and saw the common signs of water temp rising slowly and then a rapid jump or just fluctuating all over the shop when theres air in the system but I've had my other half drive the car with me in the passenger seat with laptop watching the temp rise and its definatley a linear rise in temp.

But I agree re the hoses, I've already organised getting a new set right through along with stat and also a bigger radiator. Hoping problem will go away but really just want to know for knowledge sake whats caused the drama.

FATGTS-R Experienced

FATGTS-R

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Pulled the cap off yesterday just when I beleived the thermostat should be opening and looking into the core it seems to be flowing well?

Also looked at the laptop whilst I cracked the throttle and at a lowly 2200rpm the pipe is flat as a pancake which is a worry.

Have organised new pipes and thermostat so will start there and see what happens. Hopefully its just a perished rubber hose. If its the same hose as fitted by factory then its 21 years old and could do with a change.

Re the metal hose...wouldnt it just crack as the engine moves around?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • joshuaho96
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...