Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So i jacked up my r34 by the front right hard point and noticed when it was

on the jack that the drivers door hangs differently. Not by much but enough

to make a clack sound on the latch as it closes or opens.. passenger door opens

closes the same way however.

lower the car back down by that point and it closes normally again.

Is there really that much chassis flex/twist ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244458-chassis-flex/
Share on other sites

I don't have links handy but if you are going to foam fill the do A, B and C pillars as well as the chassis rails and sills. There are improvements in rigidity to be had according to some of the OEM manufacturers research but no quantifiable results in our cars.

Or just get a decent cage with some gussets to the a and b pillars...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244458-chassis-flex/#findComment-4271906
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

wow I am late.

Yes the standard chassis flexes like crazy, but Ronin 09 said try it on most other cars!

In our new sports sedan we have a very serious cage but have also foam filled the A and B pillars, and the sills and chasis rails to get the most stiffness we can (and it adds stuff all weight). The problem is I can't tell if it made any difference because the didn't exactly do before and after tests on a 6 post shaker rig. But it is dirt cheap and light so it can't hurt.

The most common ways to spot the chasis flex is to close the door on a coupe while it is on a jack (it will clunk not just close), or jack it up from one corner and see how many wheels come off the ground. Our race car will lift 3 wheels off the ground when jacking it up from one corner.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244458-chassis-flex/#findComment-4401339
Share on other sites

wow I am late.

Yes the standard chassis flexes like crazy, but Ronin 09 said try it on most other cars!

In our new sports sedan we have a very serious cage but have also foam filled the A and B pillars, and the sills and chasis rails to get the most stiffness we can (and it adds stuff all weight). The problem is I can't tell if it made any difference because the didn't exactly do before and after tests on a 6 post shaker rig. But it is dirt cheap and light so it can't hurt.

The most common ways to spot the chasis flex is to close the door on a coupe while it is on a jack (it will clunk not just close), or jack it up from one corner and see how many wheels come off the ground. Our race car will lift 3 wheels off the ground when jacking it up from one corner.....

I read some info on foam filling and don't really like what I read. Nissan or Nismo recommend against it too. Why? because

although it appears to add rigidity, it will not flex, it will simply snap. So it might be great for a road car and add rigidity to

a point, but hammer it around a circuit and sooner or later (maybe sooner) it is going to snap at the point(s) that are doing

most work, and once snapped it is totally useless and nearly impossible to remove.

Stands to reason, I mean, take the popular foam products and make a tube, let them set. Very tough, like an iron bar?

but would you lean it against a wall at 45 degrees and stand on it? jump on it? you can do that with a roll cage, no problem,

but the foam will snap like a stick of rock candy. You can probably hit 2g vertical on some corners on some circuits.. thats

a 500 kg load hammering against the foam .. which has no flex at all ..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244458-chassis-flex/#findComment-4401396
Share on other sites

yeah fair call and not just for foam filling. there is no doubt that a car that flexes more will last longer (it will take the shock and then flex back into place). the stiffer the car (or even any solid member) the more likely it is to crack instead of break.

In the case that we are using (light/stiff race car) I am happy to take that tradeoff. The less the suspension mounts can move compared to each other the more predictable the handling will be. If the chasis is stuffed in a couple of years of racing its just $5k for a new one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244458-chassis-flex/#findComment-4401400
Share on other sites

I think you will find that the foam in rails is an 60s and 70s thing, mostly from rallying. There was thinking that it helped with stiffness, but the main reason they did it was to keep mud and garbage out of the rails which over time would cause corrosion.

Again it was noted to help the stifness by a bees dick but the other reason i know rally guys do it to the B and C pillars is to improve the acustics in the cabin and help the driver hear the navigator with pace note calls. It tones down the NVH from all the hollow spaces in the cabin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244458-chassis-flex/#findComment-4401820
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have no hard data to report, but I have to say, having driven it to work and back all week, mostly on wet roads (and therefore mostly not able to contemplate anything too outrageous anywhere)..... it is real good. I turned the boost controller on, with duty cycle set to 10% (which may not be enough to actually increase the boost), and the start boost set to 15 psi. That should keep the gate unpressurised until at least 15 psi. And rolling at 80 in 5th, which is <2k rpm, going to WOT sees the MAP go +ve even before it crosses 2k and it has >5 psi by the time it hits 90 km/h. That's still <<2.5k rpm, so I think it's actually doing really well. Because of all the not-quite-ideal things that have been in place since the turbo first went on, it felt laggy. It's actually not. The response appears to be as good as you could hope for with a highflow.
    • Or just put in a 1JZ, and sell me the NEO head 😎
    • Oh, it's been done. You just run a wire out there and back. But they have been known to do coolant temp sensors, MAP sensors, etc. They're not silly (at Regency Park) and know what's what with all the different cars.
    • Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
×
×
  • Create New...