Jump to content
SAU Community

Gt35r Vs Garrett T04z - Discussion (just Post In This Thread To Create A Database)


Recommended Posts

i was comparing simons 625hp not my own setup nick.

cerbera thats something i expected from you on a forum, just your style lol

borg warners are where its at :P

come on its a matter of personal preference i think, everyone has there own ideas of lag/power/fast.

11m59gn.jpg

beii5j.jpg

pretty much the same engine/turbo but one has 6-boost twin scroll and one has china manifold and a dodgy gate

shows what a well set up manifold/gate/boost controller combo can do...

Would it be possible to overlay a stock curve for those following at home?

post-11223-1261636788_thumb.jpg

Ah ic ic - makes more sense now :P

Would be interesting to see the GT35 on a good setup i think, one thing that's missing from the comparo's haha ;)

Here is a graph of my GT35 with .82 rear on a decent manifold setup

also i plotted it on brockas graph to compare, its the black line.

post-11223-1261636788_thumb.jpg

diff ratios dont seem to be the same and isnt yours a RB30 therefore totally useless comparison?!?

lol ye exactly - twice in as many days... stand back george :)

Thanks sky30 - but kinda... not really relevant unfortunately :(

Didnt realise that its a RB26, for some reason i thought brockas was a RB30det, That would explain why it seems so laggy to me. Oh well interesting comparison between rb30 and rb26.

Its a r32 gtr diff, 4.11 ratio, what are the ratios in the other graphs?

Car should be running in a week or so. And i'll head to the plex again see if it can go decently into the tens on street tyres. To4z has the top end to get decently into the mid 130mph's. With the small things its had done to it this time round 650rwhp should be enough for mid tens on street tyres.

I'd love to see a GT4088R compared with these things :D

lol give my bank balance time to recover after this change in setup first!!

I've now taken 2 people for a spin in my car. They both saw the graphs before going for a drive, and said the exact same thing. "It doesn't feel as laggy as it looks on the dyno plot".

Would love to have it snapping on boost hard, but I don't think my gearbox would like that...

Just looking at Pauls Graph compared to mine as a t04z to to4z comparison seems to be quite a bit of difference in response. They are both roughly based on speed vs hp and at say at 130kms pauls is making 220hp ish and mine is making almost 400hp at the same speed. Just an interesting comparison as mine didn't really feel laggy at all and should be better with the new setup of bigger valves and bits and pieces. As a comparison mine was running 27psi and i think pauls is 25psi so pretty close.

ftzcck.jpg29kvupj.jpg

Edited by R32-GTS

I think you can put it down to the boost control.

You can see in your graph the boost comes on hard where as Brockas is a bit lazier. A good boost controller makes all the difference.

Car should be running in a week or so. And i'll head to the plex again see if it can go decently into the tens on street tyres. To4z has the top end to get decently into the mid 130mph's. With the small things its had done to it this time round 650rwhp should be enough for mid tens on street tyres.

LOL

no chance you will have it running in a week or so!!!

Indeed arguable. Effiecent range on the GT35 is probably 28 - 30psi and 35 + on t04z.

Brockas like most probably not keen to push to those levels.

All your graph comparo proves is that brockas china manifold / setup is crap compared to 6boost and your setup.

GT35 on your setup would have rocked.

LOL coming from the guy that never raced his 26 !!! Simon N has times you got wannabe ......

Final word

IN PERTH GT35 smashs the t04z on RB26. Best single t04z time is like 10.8 on a fully built motor ??

There is more then one GT35 RB26's quicker then that IN PERTH.

RockoGTR's 10.4 on Nexan Radials is a GT35 and China manifold. We are going to put it on E85 and MT Drag radials and try again.

I think you can put it down to the boost control.

You can see in your graph the boost comes on hard where as Brockas is a bit lazier. A good boost controller makes all the difference.

I now have one of the best boost controllers on the market, the Blitz Dual SBC Spec R.

Unfortunately, it's my wastegate which is letting me down.

Simon, we overlayed yours versus mine and yours destroys my setup everywhere. It's on earlier due to the head porting, but yours snaps on boost so much harder. I think once I sort this wastegate issue it will change the midrange dramatically and also carry a few more HP to the top.

For now though, I'm going to see how long this $300 2nd hand box lasts... the fact that it lasted the dyno run means it's been good value so far...

Natto it will be interesting for me to see if your car can repeat the 627. That is a 4 year old dyno graph your clinging on to. Dyno's get worn, software updates and re-calibrated over that time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...