Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alright, this will be my next projec tonce I get my S15 RB26DETT up and running but as for now I am already acquiring some parts, namely the damaged RB26DETT engine. I have done a bit of searching and people are saying that you need to machine the headstud holes and retap, some others also said you can use the RB25DE headstuds and they work proper, can someone clarify. What else needs to be done, was thinking about a new headgasket and a baffle and the usual RB26 headwork for oiling problems. Can anyone advise me who has done it as I am thinking along this direction. If the damaged engine has a good block and crank then my swap will be an RB26 but not sure until it is scrapped, guy just told me it was a spun bearing and the crank needs polishing but no one can know unless it is scrapped. Let me know what is needed as I am thinking along these lines.

Good question that , non VVT head on VVT block - if the 26 block is RS .

I suppose you could look for an R32 RB25DE block and fit it with piston oil squirters and good internals .

I think American mobs can sell you non metric threaded fasteners but you have to get the block drilled/threaded and not sure about the heads bolt holes .

Ask SK , cheers A .

  • 3 weeks later...

What exactly do you want to know? The head will bolt on using rb25 head bolts, but as i said the compression ratio will be low due to the difference in cylinder volume. You really aren't gaining anything by using a neo bottom end, as a non-neo bottom end will end up with a more appropriate comp ratio. You could get a set of non-neo forged pistons and fit them to the neo bottom end, that will fix the comp issue.

Okay are you sure that using the RB25 headbolts I can bolt on the head? The reason I am using the Neo bottom end is because the RB26 engine that I am getting has bottom end damage and that I already have an RB25DET Neo engine in my GTT. Maybe the RB25 forged pistons may be an option I can look at, thanks. I just want to confirm that the headstuds from the RB25 can work on the RB26 head without worries, can you confirm firsthand?

I wanted the individual throttles and also the intake mani run on the side for shorter coldside piping, and also maybe do a twin turbo setup all at the same time, oh and the wow factor :/. Actually I am getting the RB26 for a good price and getting aftermarket intake manis for the RB25DET Neo is harder and expensive along with the harder to get injectors and then the exhaust manifold. Okay so RB25DE or is it RB25DET headstuds or are they the same, gonna do a search now?

Yes I know but I am getting the entire head for a good price and having the individual throttles is an added bonus as well as the twin turbo setup. Let's not harp on the topic I just want to make sure you can use RB25 headstuds and if so is the RB25DE and DET headstuds the same, I am thinking so. Thanks to all for the input BTW.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
×
×
  • Create New...