Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 170
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey Coop i recieved the accusump today mate thanks alot for that, it took me ages to unwrap it from the amount of silver tape u wrapped it in lol :D Now i just have to find a suitable location to mount the tank, im thinking under the plenum on chassis rail (where the hicas pump usually is) or at the front somewhere, just worried if i have a front end bingle i dont want to damage it.

How much was the PWR radiator worth too? PM if u like, i just picked up one second hand for cheap and wondering what it would of cost new roughly.

thanks again

Looks good!

More info on the dry sump kit please?

Definatly keep the bent rod, it would make a nice, but expensive paperweight - ive got 6 CP pistons doing the same thing :P

lol, i got 6 CP's, 6 ACL's and 6 stock pistons if any1 is in need of paperweights heh..awesome build on this car, should be one menacing track car when its done, congrats on the great work so far

Hey Coop i recieved the accusump today mate thanks alot for that, it took me ages to unwrap it from the amount of silver tape u wrapped it in lol :D Now i just have to find a suitable location to mount the tank, im thinking under the plenum on chassis rail (where the hicas pump usually is) or at the front somewhere, just worried if i have a front end bingle i dont want to damage it.

How much was the PWR radiator worth too? PM if u like, i just picked up one second hand for cheap and wondering what it would of cost new roughly.

thanks again

Cool Cool, Sorry about the mad wrapping. I just wanted to make sure nothin fell out or got lost. And I get the tape for free.

Under the plenum is where i was planning on putting it to.

The Radiator was a custom built one that I had made off some plans from a friend's R32 to fit where the AC condensor used to fit and incorperates a water to oil engine oil cooler in the end tank. It was about 1450 plus the fan. Very happy with it though. PWR do an outstanding job.

SDEWY5 Posted Yesterday, 06:55 PM

awesome build on this car, should be one menacing track car when its done, congrats on the great work so far

Thanks mate. If SDEWY5 is your number plates, That's cool. Good thinking.

Did a bit of work on sunday. I modified.........Ok hacked up the door trims to allow the doors to be closed without fouling on the doort trim. I just discarded the bottom half and replaced it with some ali plate.

DSC00482.jpgDSC00493.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey if anyone can identify these boxes in a R32 GTR can you please enlighten me as to what they are and what they control. They are under the parcel shelf an in inside the drivers side quater panel. I assume the one on the left is the Atessa box but i wanna chuck the stuff that's no longer required like the Hicas. also Just want to make sure that if I remove the Hicas controller that it will not effect anything else.

post-34032-1230522431_thumb.jpgpost-34032-1230522278_thumb.jpg

Thanks

And in other news. I had my first go at doing some sheet metal work to cover the holes in the dash that i had to cut to fit it back in around the bars. I tryed to bash out a piece of plate to weld to the car that was the same profile as the shape of the dash. It looks better now that I've primed it though. Also remounted all the glove box and dash brackets that had to be removed to fit the cage. The interior is now pretty much ready to get some paint. just need to weld the plates for the 5th and 6th point of the harnesses to the floor. I bought 2 Sabelt 6 pnt harnesses that arrived xmas eve that i need to go buy some nuts for to weld to the floor plates for the eye bolts.

post-34032-1230523260_thumb.jpg

from left to right, ATTESSA, HICAS ECU (Removed Mine). And the one behind the driver is a fuel pump regulator (makes the pump only pump when it's needed, not all the time), i think most people bypass these so the pump goes all the time, cause they have a habbit of dieing.

from left to right, ATTESSA, HICAS ECU (Removed Mine). And the one behind the driver is a fuel pump regulator (makes the pump only pump when it's needed, not all the time), i think most people bypass these so the pump goes all the time, cause they have a habbit of dieing.

Too easy mate thanks. That's what i was thinking but wanted a comfirmation.

Madness coops, when does thing get painted?

Looking the goods so far

Ta Marty. Hopefully have the interior and engine bay painted by monday. The body will get done whenever. Will post pics if i manage to get it done.

Welded in the new seat belt mounts for the 5th and 6th points of the harness today. Chucked a seat in and mocked up the harness to check the mounting positions. Here's a pic of the new harnesses.

If any body wants the BRIDE seat and adjustable rail, it belongs to a mate and he's chacin 5 hungy for it.

DSC00517.jpg

looks good enough to me. :yes: the cage looks very good too. very neat and I like the new rear firewall.

Thanks Mate. I was pretty happy with the cage when we finished it. In hinsight would have really liked to have replaced that factory bar that runs under the dash and through near the steering column with a CDS one and make it part of the cage. Would have been able to get the front down bars closer to the pillers if we had have thought about it earlier.

I defo like it better now it has colour on it. Kinda blends in a bit better.

Moodles2 Posted Yesterday, 10:15 PM

I'm curious about the adjustable cam gears you have in, look so worn out out I can't tell what brand.. kinda Tomei like

They are old JUN ones I'm pretty sure. They don't look the flashest but they are accurate and I run the timing cover anyway so they'll go again. :cool:

Mate this looks insane...gotta love a kenny cage!!

Reckon it'll be all go by the first hillclimb (end of march if my memory serves me correctly)??

and don't forget a seat for me :(

Swade

Ha ha Kenny build a cage? yes he Ken.....

Don't know about the first hill climb mister. Will be a very close thing if at all. Still so much work to do. And money. Hopefull ready for the rally sprint but.

Got the engine bay painted on the weekend. Also under the guards, I finished the seem welding and got te stone guard on.

DSC00525.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, long time no post as per usual! It's been a busy year so far, the biggest thing being a new job.  After 28 years in the automotive industry I decided it was time for a change.  I was losing faith in the industry and where it's heading.  Now in a completely different industry (electrical) working for a company that manufacture water pump contollers.  Not as sexy as cars but it's an interesting,  challenging industry. I now don't work Saturdays which is a bonus!  It's still 50-55 hours a week but having Saturdays ack after 28 years of working them is awesome!   No news on the GT-R but i did decide to add some more JDM goodness into my life....           1990 300 ZX.  She's not perfect but for a 35 year old car she ain't bad!  Just going to tidy it up a bit and enjoy it.  It's currently auto but will start stockpiling everything for a manual swap. It WILL distract me even further from the GT-R but im hoping not for too long! It somewhat proves a 6'8" freak can fit in a 300 ZX.  Sort of...  I drove it home from the previous owners house in Melbourne via Black Spur and Merton Gap (2 awesome bits of Victorian twisty road) and it was amazing!  Handles so well!!!   I don't think it would be worthy of a full build page but I'll post up some of the upgrades here if anyone is interested?  Cheers guys!
    • End game is to: - Remove all the slop from old worn parts - Adjust setup so that the wheels actually fit and the car is drivable (currently it is not because of the extreme rubbing on the guards).   Progress over the last couple of days, removed the rear hubs! Next steps: - Buy bushings - Replace bushings/bearings on hub - Reinstall
    • Cracked deck  And other cam snap stuff   
    • A few random issues have popped up since my last update. My WMI pressure sensor failed within about 10 minutes of it seeing liquid. It was a 20$ China special, so I'm not surprised. My name brand replacement should arrive today.  My power steering assist also decided to crap out last weekend. The usual, works for about 60 seconds after starting the car then I lose it. I dusted off my old copy of NDS and connected to the HICAS ECU. Code 4 for assist solenoid.... I tested the solenoid and it's fine.  I knew the day where my HICAS ecu would crap out would come, and I welcome it. It was the last HICAS part on the car that is now in the bin. I've ordered an SSR and I will control the power steering solenoid with my Haltech ecu. It will be nice to have proper speed referenced assist again after all these years.   
×
×
  • Create New...