Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks for the help.

Problem found and fixed. It was the old AFM wiring that in my haste i didn't sercure well enough and it had shorted on the body. Wacked a new fuse in him and started first crank.

Dropped the run in oil and filter. Chucked in some fresh Kendall oil and ventured out for a bit of a road tune tonight to clean up a bit of untidyness and gave it a few mild runs through 2nd and 3rd with 1 bar of boost. Found it to be a very linier power delivery that i think will benifit from some cam timing adjustment.

Probably back on the Dyno tomorrow to play with that and start looking at towards some more boost.

I think it's about time i sent out a big thanks to Paul at X-treme Motorsport here in Townsville for looking after the tune and keeping an eye on what I was doing throughout this project. With out his help I would never have got this far.

  • Replies 170
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hope Coops doesn't mind me posting this here..

http://www.qldstreetscene.com/forums/index...20&start=20

"It's repairable and the car is still pretty straight. Just some expensive and 1 off parts that will have to be binned. Pretty much just a rear end lock up, kicked out hard and ran tarmac to pull it up. Took out a small tree and stoved the front into a rock. Better luck next year. Gotta stay true to my sig. On a positive though that motor was amazing all weekend and from what i've removed so far it looks fine."

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys. sorry for the lack of updates as i haven't had a Pc for a while.

So far I've pretty much identified everything that's been damaged and I've started buying bits already. I bought a second hand blitz intercooler, Ordered a new custom PWR radiator, new radiator and headlight supports and also have a new oil pump input shaft as It was bent slightly by the impact from the bottom rad support. Still alot of work to do but well on the way to repair. I'll try post some picks of the damage from the rally when I have access to our own computer gear again.

Besides us crashing out we were actually doing quite well. We were running 3rd outright behind a Skelta G-force and Giant's RGM racing R35 Gtr. I would have liked to have had more opportunity to sort out its handling issues but simply ran out of time.

I'll try and get the in car footage up on youtube when i figure out how, but untill then heres some pics

Befor and afters.

At scrutineering

DSC00656.jpg

At home, all stickered up and ready to rallying

DSC00662.jpg

Where we landed looking from where we left the road

07062009081.jpg

And on the tilt tray mid way through day 2

DSC00664.jpg

DSC00665.jpg

NOTE:

You may have noticed this thread has been moved.

SAU Admin have decided to run a new section for "Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups"

As such your thread is a prime example of what we wanted to house in this section.

We have left links in the sections you originally posted also to allow easy access to the threads new home.

Any issues, please feel free to pm myself or N1GTR.

Cheers Col

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

I loaded up You tube wth a few in car Vids from the Mount Stuart Tarmac rally including the ill fated 6th run crash. Run 3 gives some idea of how taily it was and there's a couple of classic catches in this one. Enjoy

I am sorry to see mate.

Car looks beautiful and fast.

I hope you are almost done with the repair. It will be nice to see it on track again.

The last video was sad to see :thumbsup:

From the video it appeared that your rear end stepped out under brake.

What actually caused the accident?

Brake lock up, oil/gravel on the road?

First up in the morning the car wasn't working too bad but I'm pretty sure that once we'd done a few stages the rear shock oil was cooked and they had no real controll over the spring so basicly it was like trying to rally a New York taxi. very bouncy in the rear.

However I did make a mistake where I didn't rev match the downshift to second spot on and compresion locked it slightly and on cold tyres the rear just colapsted and tried to overtake the front. I got it back a bit straight but ran out of road.

It's all repaired and racing again now with only some cosmetics to fix up like a new bar and stuff but for now my zip ties are doing the trick. Kinda drift spec.

First up in the morning the car wasn't working too bad but I'm pretty sure that once we'd done a few stages the rear shock oil was cooked and they had no real controll over the spring so basicly it was like trying to rally a New York taxi. very bouncy in the rear.

However I did make a mistake where I didn't rev match the downshift to second spot on and compresion locked it slightly and on cold tyres the rear just colapsted and tried to overtake the front. I got it back a bit straight but ran out of road.

It's all repaired and racing again now with only some cosmetics to fix up like a new bar and stuff but for now my zip ties are doing the trick. Kinda drift spec.

i thought it looked like you compression locked it a little...

pitty after you caught it you didnt nail the throttle might have just pulled you around the corner, but these things are very hard split second decisions

at least your ok

I really enjoyed watching stage 3

Stage 6 though.....hmm. Not so good to watch.

Hope the next event goes a little smoother for you.

cheers

btw are you running stock brakes!?!

Edited by Duncan1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...