Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Im sure that the people with oil temp guages in their car will agree with me on this one.

Yep...definitely about 10 mins for the oil to reach anywhere near operating temps(thrashable temps). My drive to work takes 15 mins...I baby it for the 1st third then by that time...I'm in heavy traffic! Oh well...look forward to the weekend to stretch it's legs, for the daily grind, I'll baby her...plus it helps my fuel consumption!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24741-warming-up/page/4/#findComment-832720
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Come on fellars, as much as we like to think that a skyline is a super performance machine, at the end of the day, it is a car. In japan, they are our version of commondore. Well, not really, but almost. All this talk about warm idling and taking it easy. Just drive it.

I let my car idle for about a minute. That is start up the car, put my stuff in the car, sit down, and go. Who in their right mind would even think about going a different path just to warm up their car? As a turbo car, it is important to let the oil circulate for a sec to lub the turbo. Then, just go. After the turb is lubed, it is the same as a normal car. Do you see commodore drivers warming up, or circling the block at 40 km/hr to warm it up, or driving on the freeway at 80?

All this analness that you guys are doing will make minimal difference in the end. Might last a few more ks. If you think about it, most likely you may not even have the car in a few years time. Most commondores and other cars last 10-15 years and around 200 000ks. Isn't this enough? in 15 years time r33s will be an absolute shitbox. Would you even wanna be driving it around anymore?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24741-warming-up/page/4/#findComment-920558
Share on other sites

Holy resurrect a thread batman!

Why bother washing the car, the paint will be rooted in 10 years' time anyway. It'll be due for new tyres too eventually, so I might as well just torch the crap out of the ones I've got.

I don't see what's so anal about not flogging an engine until it's had time to warm up. I mean really, who in their right mind canes any car when it's stone cold? If you see anyone caning a cold engine, feel free to call them an idiot.

I looked after my VC Commodore no differently than I do the R33, except that the 33 will idle without pumping the throttle for the first couple of minutes :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24741-warming-up/page/4/#findComment-920570
Share on other sites

rev head, you have taken what i said to the extreme. I'm not saying go off and flog it straight away when it's cold. I'm just saying that you should just drive it normal without being all anal about taking it ultra easy in the beginning.

Let me give you an example. Driving it around the block a few times taking it ultra easy. Worrying about going 100 ks/hr after they said that it takes 5 minutes to get there. Thinking about going a longer route.

The difference between driving it normal (say as your parents would) and being ultra anal is minimal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24741-warming-up/page/4/#findComment-920572
Share on other sites

I think it comes down to whatever YOU feel comfortable with. If your happy to drive it soon as it turns over go for it, as others have said probably wont do damage if its babyd for a few minutes. If you prefer to let it sit for a minute fine, not hurting anyone, you couldnt spit more fuel than is being used in that minute either. Personally i let mine sit until i have seatbelt on, windows down or until i feel ready to drive off(minute or so). I believe my car runs better if left to warm up a little, specially on these cold mornings. I know ppl with v8s, skylines etc who will turn there car over in their driveway, walk back inside do this and that then drive it. They swear by it.

Just like those speeding adds, is taking that extra minute to get to your destination really going to make a difference? IMO

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24741-warming-up/page/4/#findComment-920742
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...
just out of curiosity, how long on average do you take to warm up your car?

i take at least one cigarette time to warm up (10mins approx), that is when i see the oil temp needle touches the first white line and my rpm sits around 900.

i feel that it's a little long, and it doesn't help when i'm rushing to school. been considering a remote start too.

comments?

p.s i drive an R33 GTST M-spec

My old mans a mechanic, he says this: When a car has first been started and is running at idle the amount of oil flowing around the motor is negligable ie low oil pressure, oil will not reach all areas of the engine correctly until the the oil pump is opporating at revs. Oil pumps reach their maximum pump pressure @3000rpm. You should never exceed 3000rpm until engine temp is at normal operating temp. It is also important to correctly warm down a motor with the final k's done within normal driving operation not thrashing the pants off it. I drove a highly boosted to 16lb Laser Tx3-4WD to 360,000km's on the clock without engine failure by following this advice with regular 5000km oil/filter changes until I sold it and joined the "Legion of Skyline-There can be no other"

Thats my 2c

Start the car up for about 5mins just b4 I goto work. If Iam running late I'll give it atleast 1min or 2 and take off easy. Drive it easy for a good 5 - 10 mins and everything is at normal driving temp.

Also the weather can effect it too. If its a hot day then the car will not need as long to warm up.

Edited by (00)SKYLINE(00)

What an old thread. Im not so sure a general rule of "3kRPM"

I figure, clearences are designed around operating temperature, so keeping it below 3K for 10mins (if theres traffic, in winter conditions) can effect bearing wear. I give it 30-60s then drive keeping under 4'ish. As it warms up, lean on it more.

I start my car, set the turbo timer to 6 mins, go inside and brush my teeth, then jump in my car and by that stage its been on for about 3.5 to 4 mins, then i drive off and go the speed limit till it reaches its normal operating temp. After that if i feel the need to speed i will with a clear conscience.

Edited by WET-25T
  • 1 year later...
I start my car, set the turbo timer to 6 mins, go inside and brush my teeth, then jump in my car and by that stage its been on for about 3.5 to 4 mins, then i drive off and go the speed limit till it reaches its normal operating temp. After that if i feel the need to speed i will with a clear conscience.

EXACTLY what I do... I couldn't believe someone else saying exactly what I was going to!

EXACTLY what I do... I couldn't believe someone else saying exactly what I was going to!

This has been covered 100 times but cant believe it needs to be said. The LONGER your car takes to reach operating oil temp will just do it more damage! You let your car idle there because you think its good for the engine when its not! Jump in, start the car. Put on your seatbelt. Set your radio. Then start driving at low rpm off boost untill it reaches operating temp. Your gearbox oil, diff oil and everything else doesnt get warmed up with your car just sitting there.

This has been covered 100 times but cant believe it needs to be said. The LONGER your car takes to reach operating oil temp will just do it more damage! You let your car idle there because you think its good for the engine when its not! Jump in, start the car. Put on your seatbelt. Set your radio. Then start driving at low rpm off boost untill it reaches operating temp. Your gearbox oil, diff oil and everything else doesnt get warmed up with your car just sitting there.

Agreed. That prob equates to what? 30 seconds?

Lets end the debate there. =)

  • 4 months later...

alright guys i know its a bit overboard but i love my car its my pride and joy and couldnt stand the fact of it wearing away.so this is my daily ritual:

4am, wake up, go to garage drain all the oil in the car inc gearbox.

6am, put all the fluid in the massive pot stick a temp gauge in it and bring up to specified boiling temp.(you wanna get it just a bit over cuz it will cool down a lil b4 puttin it back in2 car)

6.30am, put all fluids back in the car just in time to drive to work.

6.32am have the car sideways out of the driveway with no worries of engine wear

Previous to a service I got a squeak as a belt moved on cool start, and if I accelerated prior to warm up it sounded bad... I normally warm it up for 5 mins or until the oil guage is under that middle line it sits above just after start... doesn't run rich when driving and I have a 100km zone out front so its gotta be ready to go

alright guys i know its a bit overboard but i love my car its my pride and joy and couldnt stand the fact of it wearing away.so this is my daily ritual:

4am, wake up, go to garage drain all the oil in the car inc gearbox.

6am, put all the fluid in the massive pot stick a temp gauge in it and bring up to specified boiling temp.(you wanna get it just a bit over cuz it will cool down a lil b4 puttin it back in2 car)

6.30am, put all fluids back in the car just in time to drive to work.

6.32am have the car sideways out of the driveway with no worries of engine wear

true story?

:(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...