Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know this might be a bit late in the day....but its a big wake up call for buyers. There are plenty of dodgy cars out there make sure the car you buy is road registered in OZ.

It's not technically illegal.....it is illegal and the seller can be in some serious trouble there are plenty of laws that cover this.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 101
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

the car has been flagged on the system by DOTARS. When the new owner tries to register the car, the inspectors will have fun tearing it apart for closer inspection then removing it from your possession.

vice5500: as I've told you on the phone a MILLION times, you cannot put a new VIN on the vehicle and think everything will be ok. It wont! I dont care if you recon your transport department said it could be done, it cant and they will work that out once they get the whole story.

What I recon has happened is the car was complied and PASSED compliance mid last year. Then somehow you have obtained either a written off car or a car with a copied VIN.

1. The car was written off and all compliance plates including the original VIN on the firewall was removed by the insurance company. The owner bought the car back, then redid the VIN number fixed the damage and sold it to you.

2. The original car is still registered somewhere in Australia and what you have is another car that has had the VIN copied from an already complied vehicle. Obviously you cant have 2 VIN's on the road in Australia, so you're screwed.

3. The original white car was written off then the VIN was copied onto a donor car/half cut to fool you into thinking that its roadworthy.

Why they gave you a fake invoice with my company name on it saying that it failed compliance, then has the details for compliance of a VZ-R Pulsar on it with balance owing of $1800. And of course they gave you a front page of a import approval that is meant for a VZ-R pulsar. Obviously this was done to try and make it look legit to you, but you really didnt think or look much into it before handing over your money.

Why would a compliance shop charge $1800 to fail a car for compliance. Usually we ask for our documentation fees and tell the owner to take the car and piss off.

Heres a tip for you. Dont try and register the thing, get rid of it legally otherwise you will get into trouble. Even if you manage to fool the local transport authority, they will eventually find out. Remember, they have all the details.

If a deal looks dodgy, it usually is.

Edited by sbyder

sbyder is probably right...I take it the guy gave you the "I can't comply it but hey it's real easy if I transfer it to you with this new VIN and you get a cheap ride" line? Short story is if he can't comply it, there's no way you can so I would give up on ever using the car.

If not getting your money back is an option (e.g. he's gone or you knew it was like this) then best thing to do is hope the parts are in good condition and part it out and sell the shell to the wreckers. Get as much back as you can and then save up for one from a reputable dealer.

Hey, I know the lure of a good deal may be too hard to resist, but you will learn from your mistakes :(

It looks as if in Modifications & Maintenance > General Maintenance that...

you can't get 9 of the wheel nuts off it either !!! :(

'Der... they're those special dr/ft wheel nuts where you can screw 'em on, but ya can't screw 'em off!!! :)

Yeh! That's it! Special wheel nuts with explosive powa

Oh dear...

Then this...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4302129

Why bother calling everyone for advice if you're gonna ignore the answers??

Edited by Iron Chef
  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
What can be used from an illegal car? Is the engine allowed to be put in a road registered car? Other parts? If your car is flagged can't buy a registerable rolling shell and transfer parts ?

Just curious

yeh I think so. I'm pretty sure I read a thread a few years back on supraforums about a guy whose TT Supra was knocked back for compliance, in the end I'm pretty sure he got an NA aerotop and transfered all the gear to that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...