Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thing is though, the Racepace exhaust will pass... we got mine passed eventually, i was basically the test mule.

I must have had 5-6 exhaust noise tests, maybe more, cant remember :P

So while the price is high, there is a fair bit of research/work and otherwise that's gone into it as its all custom so its the biggest you can get, while still flowing.

I reckon with two brand name mufflers, you'll probably get close... those last 2-4 dB are the hardest to knock down as i hit 92 about 4 times with various changes.

So you can either go a stock exhaust (thats been... assisted) and pass, or get something made that will always pass.

Once you cop 2-3 EPA's, the less hassle/more costly option suddenly looks a lot more inviting which after my many many EPA trips, was worth it to me.

Each to their own on that one, depends how many times you see the EPA i guess before you get sick of it

Thing is though, the Racepace exhaust will pass... we got mine passed eventually, i was basically the test mule.

I must have had 5-6 exhaust noise tests, maybe more, cant remember :/

So while the price is high, there is a fair bit of research/work and otherwise that's gone into it as its all custom so its the biggest you can get, while still flowing.

I reckon with two brand name mufflers, you'll probably get close... those last 2-4 dB are the hardest to knock down as i hit 92 about 4 times with various changes.

So you can either go a stock exhaust (thats been... assisted) and pass, or get something made that will always pass.

Once you cop 2-3 EPA's, the less hassle/more costly option suddenly looks a lot more inviting which after my many many EPA trips, was worth it to me.

Each to their own on that one, depends how many times you see the EPA i guess before you get sick of it

Yeah i def want the racepace exhausts they are fantastically built and make great power while being quite... but like u say its that 2-4db that is hard to get down, ben said the same thing that it will get really close but not under 90... so my plan was to borrow a stock exhaust get the test cleared then get ben to build my system, it will be a little over 90db but the cop would have to be a sonic freak or just an arse to give me an epa test at 92-4 db. its just getting the stock exhaust from somewhere... the cefiro guy seems to have dropped off the plannet and i don't really wanna pay the exhuast place guy $300 to make me a plugged up system.

92dB isnt like 102km/h in 100km/h zone and being 2 units over.

92dB is actually 2 times louder than 90dB, so if you put 90 & 94 together there is a very substantial difference. :D

We got mine down to 86dB on back off, have a chat to Ben about it :P

My first effort was 92dB... RB's are VERY hard to get quiet due to the frequency of the exhaust etc. Its the bass that sets it off.

I also recommend taking your car to the tester in Lilydale. Yes it might be a fair drive from wherever you are, but there are factors that seem to impact the tests and their location is the best for it

PM me if you need more info or cant make sense of my post :)

While im here... Join SAU-Vic, you know you want too and we would love more Stag's ;)

Cheers

Well after a first great initial responce... i still don't have an exhauast, which is a bugger as i really am left with no choice but to get the exhuast place guy to make me up a silent system that will make 0 power... pass the test and then put my old on back on. Oh well, i guess thats what happens when u own a rare car

Have a good christmas everyone

  • 3 months later...

Im screwed!!!!

Got a letter a few weeks ago, I was in a shop, and mate comes in after 15 mins. He states to me cops been sitting behind my car for the past 10 mins. I was in a pickup/drop off park. Went out there and they were gone. Thought to myself. "Well, that went well." Got a letter in mail two weeks later stating my car was spotted driving in a particuliar street (load of shi..), and that the exhaust needed to be tested due to a certain police officer thinking it was 2 loud.

Fair enough. So went down to exhaust centre gave them a 2 1/2 muffler and said could U mount this and weld up half of the 2 1/2 inch pipe (3 1/2 inch into a 2 1/2 inch), to quiet it down enough. $260 later, did a great job. Went in got it tested 89 db. Woo Hoo passed. Got home removed muffler and put my bad boy muffler back on.

Mrs borrows the car! The other day to get to work, guess what! Yes, massive police blitz on Calder Highway on incomming side of Bendigo. Get the phone call from Mrs. "They about to do a EPA noise test on your car." Not good! Got a reading of 113 db!icon8.gif

They didn't know the car had just been through a test a gathered. They didn't ask her about it, but stated that I would be getting a fine maybe in the mail. I gather I will, not to sure how BIG yet. Heard a bloke got $2500 fine fore removing his CAT's. I will eventually get through this in the end.

Just to make things worse, my clutch shi... itself today (nismo twin-plate spring button clutch) done a hole 15,000 khms since it got re-conditioned. <------------DODGY AS!icon7.gif

Anyone had this happen to them before, or simular. Any advice would be muchly appreciated.

WHITEBEAST.

yeah i took the mid muffler out so i could atleast hear my car ....

if i get done ... just slap the stock system on and bada bing bada boom :D

i have thought about dropping my mid muffler, maybe when its manual :D

I just got a new 3" catback. The old setup was very quiet. Had a huge oval mid muffler and a 10" dia cannon that was only a 21/2" with a 5" outlet. Looked hot but was useless.

The new 3" has a 5" dia mid and a full flow 3" cannon but just 6" in dia. The outlet is double wall so it can't melt the bar.

It is noisier but I dont think too much. I reckon it would be legal, but I will get it tested.

Engine breathes a heap better. Cost $500 at GC Mufflers.

recently we stuck a 3" straight thru custom made 10" x 8" x 19" monster mofo rear muffler due to ms wolv wanting NO NOISE at all (replacing a twin outlet 10" x 6" x 12")

the muffler looks like something off a prime mover but it is super quiet. it sounds quieter than stock to my ears as there is no tell tale RB over-run noise coming into the driveway at all.

the rear end of the stagea has so much room so they are really easy to get the noise down.

cost $280 plus fitting.

Edited by wolverine

Didn't Know this thread was still going!!=

Well i have got my exhaust all done now, full custom 3.5" system from racepace. Twin tips out the back looks reasonably stock, sounds great quite on idol/cruise but sounds unreal under power. Ben also found a split hose which he replaced and turns out it had been causing troubles for awhile. So after a total remap, retune with exhaust and new pipe she is now putting down 263awkw :);) and goes and feels like it wants to go into orbit! i love it. A BUTT load of cash down but so worth it...

Anyway I still have the rear pipe/muffler i had made up so if anyone needs to borrow it for a test give me a buzz :rant:

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...