Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It was good to see the gtr's racing around the mount and to see the first aussie delivered gtr racing around the mount was good. Im cofused with sum of the entrant numbers but as in the sdrive bathurst part the number 26 was on a 32 gtr that raced at superlap and not on a 997 gt3. And congrats to michael taylor for doin a 2.47 in the r35 for its first outing and on street tyres around the mount. nope i got the right as ive had a few drinks between seeing it and typing this :)

The 32 was parked up at mark and russ's joint Roy. Maybe the new owner gave them the green light to hang another scalp from its belt.

The 33 ran at time attack a few days back and even at this early stage was only a cuppla secs away from the fully developed 32. It augers well for the future of the 33 for sure. Its an amazing car to watch.

wow massive QLD result. Top 3 regular TimeAttack QLD drivers! Great result for Mark Rayner to pip Cam Dyal. !

last time I spoke to Russ at TimeAttack, they was hoping to take the R33GTR? Not sure if that result is the R33 or R32 (I doubt R32)

R32 GTR is in someone else's hands but the car lives in brissie still. killed a gearbox the saturday before timeattack at qr i think???

thats what i heard down the grapevine? :P

wow massive QLD result. Top 3 regular TimeAttack QLD drivers! Great result for Mark Rayner to pip Cam Dyal. !

last time I spoke to Russ at TimeAttack, they was hoping to take the R33GTR? Not sure if that result is the R33 or R32 (I doubt R32)

R32 GTR is in someone else's hands but the car lives in brissie still. killed a gearbox the saturday before timeattack at qr i think???

thats what i heard down the grapevine? :P

Go the Qlders, & ALL 1st timers at the track too, just for good measure!

Well done to Mark & Russ on a fantastic result, well deserved, especially considering the car was in 2wd mode!

Great performance by Mark Rayner also to dip into the 29's on semi's. Considering there is 4 to 5 seconds in slicks, it would have been very interesting to see what times he would have got down to. Next year we'll see, that's for sure.

Unfortunately I could not run my good engine for the event, so I swapped back to my old 2 litre engine which was only good for 259kw's on pump, so I was very happy to get down to the time I did on a handful of dry laps. It was not fun seeing another Evo pull away from me on every straight I tell you!!!!!

Cheers Cam

yeah well done to Mark B, Mark R & Cam, bloody good driving given the conditions ( lots of rain) , which really limited any learning the track time with good grip! especially as EVO Cam and ourselves had mechanical trouble which meant even less laps.

It was a good weekend and absolutely fantastic fun,& the most amazing track you could ever imagine driving , i thought!

it was the r33 that we took down for it first real race debut, which was a mission to get even half right, the car got one session friday and managed a 2.20 which we were happy with given it was Mark's first time on track! but the car was handling very poorly , it was trying to change lanes on it's own when pushed and swap ends over the high speed bumps on the crests. Then Saturday the front diff and housing assembly parted company with the sump and the top of the hill just after skyline with me in it ( my one and only drive of it two laps in), so we decided to take the whole lot out and run it in rear wheel drive for Sunday.

attached is a lap incar from yesterday with rear drive only, you maybe able to make out the whole car trying to bounce sideways from the shit suspension uprights and standard bushes still in the car. he couldnt hold it flat over the crests on either straight as it just wanted to bounce of the track!

it is a credit to Mark to drive it so fast handling sp poorly like that!

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=lf6opg6Mdt0

I so want that car more then ever now. Awesome in car vid of an awesome driver/car combo! I wonder how mnay years i will have to slave away in developign countris to affors your asking price :(

So first time out i know it would be hard to say, but do you think the R33 could ultimately be as fast/faster then the R32?

don't worry troy. i keep putting the hard word on russ for ya, and I promise I wont let him sell the 33 to anyone else! it's right up your alley I reckon. :)

anyway, it was a top effort by both mark and hollywood. you did pretty well for a bloke with no talent russ! putting around in that little evo. there would be a few blokes behind you that wouldn't believe you if you told them how little money is the total spend on your evo... especially when they probably spent more on wheels and tyres for their GT3 Cup Car than you did on the whole shebang!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...