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N/a+t Power Results - N/a +t Turbo Conversions Only


N-DAWG
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AFAIK the AFM on S1 N/A is the same as the turbo item?

That was just a power run, to see what state my car is in, nothing was changed - everything is setup how I set it up at home. I was going to get my SAFC tuned but he recommended it would be a waste of time and that the car really needed full aftermarket management, its unusual for the tune on an N/A+T to be this out of whack, but it's fair enough and I will definitely get more power and better drivability from it.

I'm aiming for 12psi and/or as much power as he can get using the water+meth, with any luck it ends up with >250hp, but my eventual goal is for 300hp.

At this stage it looks like I'll end up with a power-fc, should have everything sorted within the month (actually my deadline).

Sucks that you can't edit old posts, was going to change it to the correct format;

Model - R33 GTS4

Engine - RB25DE

Modifications / Parts Used - R34 Turbo, R34 SMIC, RB25DET Factory Manifold, R33 GTST Injectors, 2.5" Cat back, Water + Meth spray

Engine Management Used - Standard RB25DET ECU

Fuel Used - BP Ultimate 98

Boost Used - 9 PSI

Dyno Tune Results - 164.5KW/220HP @ 6400RPM

Costs - Parts: $1500 Labour: $FREE (fitted myself) Tuning: $FREE SO FAR (Ignition adjustment & water meth adjustment done my self)

Dyno Graph

post-a289440-R33-GTS4-Dyno-small.jpg

Edited by SKiT_R31
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hmmm... I cant remember actually... I know my original afm had the green label and I thought to be safe I got a s1 gtst one, but I sold that a while ago for a z32, so dont remember the colour.

my fuel pump held up to 180rwkw... im assuming same as urs?

also im just curious, wheres the 1500 worth in parts? ie break down of parts/$..

From memory.. and this is YEARS ago... my parts were all off a 33 and prices something around:

$400: good cond gtst turbo, manifold, injectors in fuel rail, afm

$80: s1 33 gtst ecu

$100: crossover pipe and gtst bov

$300: hybrid fmic and piping

I already had a catback exhaust and then a little later on i got a front/dump for 200 new and went from about the power you have now to 200rwkw + boost at 12psi. so your goal is pretty close

gl with it man... once u hit 200 u will realise very quickly that you will need gtst brakes and then u might aswell go 5 stud as well...

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Thanks man, yeah I have GTST rear brakes and hubs ready, just need the cash for GTR front hubs and brakes (bit down on the list ATM).

The cost was really rough, just sort of guessed without putting too much thought into it, but ill do a breakdown now;

R34 Turbo $300

R34 SMIC $60

R33 factory piping and crossover pipe $100

RB20/25DET exhaust manifold $75

Front & Dump Pipe $80

Braided turbo feed line with restrictor $120

Custom oil drain/t-pieces/silicone hose etc $25 (I've tapped into the head-block vct? oil return line for turbo drain)

RB25DET ECU ~ $150 (guessed, i already had one of these spare)

RB25DET Injectors ~ $150 (guessed, i already had these spare also)

Water + Meth kit $350 (basic kit, with nozzle/lines/pump/wiring & relays)

Turbotech manual boost controller $40

So that’s about $1450, and I’m sure there would be other random costs like gaskets/goo/replaced studs etc.

The exhaust was already fitted to the car, but on looks to be a $200 custom press bent jobby (its not badly crimped though) I have looked into a 3" but would require turbo back, I’ve tested 3" dumps but they don’t clear the gearbox cross member, so that would need to be custom plus the car is a 4 door (so possibly custom cat back).

The car also already had splitfire coilpacks, so that was a bonus.

And I have also put an R32 GTR gearbox in it, ultra lightweight RB26 flywheel and Exedy HD organic RB26DET clutch all costing $1k second hand. I am aware that the stock GTS4 gearbox is more than strong enough, but the GTR box has better gear ratio's, plus at the time I wasn’t sure of the damage to my box (clutch exploded) or flywheel, and I could purchase only all the above or none of it (and I needed to fix car ASAP, wasn't fun BTW).

Even 165kW in the GTS4 is a bit of fun, just from the incredibly short gearing and good grip, it is a daily so I don’t want to push it too hard, but I think 200 would be a great number to have while I sort out the rest of the car (front TIEN SS’s due for rebuilding, front brakes and some light body work – like the car to be Immaculate)

By then being sick of the power, I might try my luck with a 3” exhaust, GT3071R, and FMIC.

edit: I do have stock fuel pump AFAIK, might have an R33 GTST one around somewhere I could fit, what are you using?

Cheers

Edited by SKiT_R31
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its good your saving for gtr brakes at the front. I ended up getting the whole front arm assembly (not sure what it is called, but the big heavy black things that the caliper bolts to) off the front of a 33 gtr.. i dont know whether you will be able to just change the front hubs and add brakes to your current setup... the gtst and gtr brakes are much bigger...i ran out of funds so i just got the gtst brakes, would like to get some nice gtr ones or brembos down the track.

oh yeh.. good thing you already did your clutch...when I got the first power jump (from 104rwkw n/a to 160ish standard boost etc) I instantly lost the clutch.. within 6 hours of driving it out of the tuners :D

I have some form of a Walbro pump.. cant remember the model, but it is holding up absolutely fine.... same as my stock one...

and yes... 200 absolutely is fun... I remember with the high compression motor I would have full boost coming on in the low 2's and had alot of torque down low from that.

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If it's a standard in-tank replacement it would be a Walbro GSS342 intake pump. Should be good 550horse, flows 255 LPH and direct replacement.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Guys

A memeber just suggested I post up some info about our Federal Sil80 RB25DE+t Neo build.

This is a budget build and we have used only what we have in the shop.

Here are some quotes from the build thread - Also images showsing the engine etc

this is a stock RB25DE neo on a stock RB25DET computer and Stock Injectors
wanted the higher compression as well - it will be on STD turbo computer and injectors for a start with Bosch pump and adj fuel reg with Tolulene/98 mix
Intercooler piping will work no problem , still way shoerter than a normal front mount - didn`t want to use a cheap forward facing plenum and like the one thats on there so it stays hence the setup on it
Very Very happy with the car straight out of he box and its only running .6 Bar of boost , now to finish it off and develop it into more of a weapon

Everything on the car was done with basic welding / cutting equipment as well - you could build one at home in your garage with some skills people !

It is so predictable to drive and has lots of sideways grip which makes it so fast plus the transitions are awesome fun , looking forward to spending some time in it . QR and turn three entries are on in a month or so once its finished !

Had a slight overboost problem above 5500 rpm on the dyno so now has a 44mm gate which will fix that no worries - from what we saw on the dyno at around 12lb boost it should be making 280 hp and come on hard and early in the revs which is exactly what we were looking for

4557423664_2ebce656bb_o.jpg

4547585078_9bc124db4c_o.jpg

4547588656_fb24d5a85d_o.jpg

4546953567_7aa55d58f1_o.jpg

4547591372_94a9e726de_o.jpg

4556792401_7728bb0f81_o.jpg

4557423398_c8c19011a2_o.jpg

4581425824_fa61eb20f9_o.jpg

high end Pirtek heat proof hose. has a wall thickness of like 5mm

4577791200_c48ab42c4b_o.jpg

dyno_2.jpg

Making great horsepower for the boost levels plus nice safe mixtures and comes on nice and early , pretty much what I wanted .

VIDEO!!!!!!!!!!!

Question is does it work? YEEEEEES :P

4641669192_90bf62d41c_o.jpg

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^ what spring were you using in the ext gate?

i had a 12psi spring which caused over boosting after 5000rpm.

changed to a smaller 7psi spring and problem solved.

tuner #1 told me to change to 44mm gate as well but i new that wouldn't be the issue.

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  • 1 month later...

SIGH, wrote this whole thing then pushed back by accident :D

I know it has been longer then 6 weeks, but there have been alot of set backs.

The 18 psi has still been holding perfect and since I have had the new turbo on the car the largest knock I have gotten was 17psi at 6,800 rpm.

This is whats been happening:

- Still using the standard head gasket, tuner has said no need to change unless there are problems

- Been to the tuners 3 times in the past 4 weeks, with all these issues for those last 16kw:

-1. Went to the tuners to get a flange ally welded to my cooler pipe because I have been driving around without any blowoff valve and the car has been fluttering like crazy. We got that done but it

was too late to tune so had to block off the new bov and drive home.

-2. Next week went back for the tune. Car was running fine the night before but on the dyno it was misfiring bad. I had to take it home and gave it a full service including oil, sparks, cleaning in the valley

of the head and giving all the splitfires a good clean. The car was then running really well.

-3. The next week went back again. Car was doing really well but I didnt want to use the bleed valve i had been using, I wanted to use my gizzmo electronic boost controller. It was really good.

Brought boost on a couple of hundred rpm earlier and harder. We were doing a run for 20psi so I would finally smash into the 300's and it was going really well, got the same peak power it had made

before (284rwkw) but at 5,000rpm not 7,000, so there was still 2,000 to play with >_<

Then, all of a sudden a massive bang, car was running like poo. Found out the reason - I had made a heatsheild to cover the turbo so cops wouldn't know about the screamer, but unfortunately it

was so hot under there it made the rubber cooler pipe joiner go hard and it popped in half! By then the tuner had another client waiting so had to quickly replace the pipe and get out of there.

Last week I had to do assignments so we scheduled again for this Friday. Hopefully it will finally be the day I get to the 300's!

On the controller, as there is 6 boost settings, I have been switching between 18 and 19psi and both have been fine on the tune with no knock.

I'll let you guys know the progress as soon as all these little hiccups are sorted.

Adam

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SIGH, wrote this whole thing then pushed back by accident :D

I know it has been longer then 6 weeks, but there have been alot of set backs.

The 18 psi has still been holding perfect and since I have had the new turbo on the car the largest knock I have gotten was 17psi at 6,800 rpm.

This is whats been happening:

- Still using the standard head gasket, tuner has said no need to change unless there are problems

- Been to the tuners 3 times in the past 4 weeks, with all these issues for those last 16kw:

-1. Went to the tuners to get a flange ally welded to my cooler pipe because I have been driving around without any blowoff valve and the car has been fluttering like crazy. We got that done but it

was too late to tune so had to block off the new bov and drive home.

-2. Next week went back for the tune. Car was running fine the night before but on the dyno it was misfiring bad. I had to take it home and gave it a full service including oil, sparks, cleaning in the valley

of the head and giving all the splitfires a good clean. The car was then running really well.

-3. The next week went back again. Car was doing really well but I didnt want to use the bleed valve i had been using, I wanted to use my gizzmo electronic boost controller. It was really good.

Brought boost on a couple of hundred rpm earlier and harder. We were doing a run for 20psi so I would finally smash into the 300's and it was going really well, got the same peak power it had made

before (284rwkw) but at 5,000rpm not 7,000, so there was still 2,000 to play with :(

Then, all of a sudden a massive bang, car was running like poo. Found out the reason - I had made a heatsheild to cover the turbo so cops wouldn't know about the screamer, but unfortunately it

was so hot under there it made the rubber cooler pipe joiner go hard and it popped in half! By then the tuner had another client waiting so had to quickly replace the pipe and get out of there.

Last week I had to do assignments so we scheduled again for this Friday. Hopefully it will finally be the day I get to the 300's!

On the controller, as there is 6 boost settings, I have been switching between 18 and 19psi and both have been fine on the tune with no knock.

I'll let you guys know the progress as soon as all these little hiccups are sorted.

Adam

i'll look out for the report good luck,might be tempted to up my boost if this works out ok,but at the moment i'm messing with my lads s13,i was playing with the gizzmo on mine and accidently put in on the wrong setting and it boosted to 25psi + before i shut down luckily it survived in tact

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  • 3 months later...
  • 4 months later...

put my CA18DE+T on the dyno yesterday

160kw on 12psi

T25g

GTR front mount

040 fuel pump

feels much better then my CA18DET with the same setup, didnt help my that engine had the exhaust manifold gaskets on the wrong way blocking half of each port

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  • 4 months later...

Finally got my s**t together.

Model: R33 Series 1 GTS

Engine: RB25DE+T

Mods/parts:http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=garage&do=view&tab=main&id=1515

Engine Management: Stock R33 Series 1 GTST ECU

Fuel: BP Ultimate

Boost: ~7psi, drops to ~5psi after 5000rpm (read below)

Dyno Results: 138rwkw@6400rpm

Costs: Stopped counting

No Graph as I don't have a scanner.

Figure is extremely low, tried dropping the exhaust in front of the cat, and removing the air filter, minor difference. Biggest issue is the car's hitting anywhere down to 8.5/9:1 AFR and simply isn't burning the fuel. Dyno operator said find the problem, lean it out, and should realistically see 160-170 rwkw on 7psi. Going to carry this over to the "How to turbo your NA" thread for opinions.

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  • 2 months later...

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