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Case: Antec 900

Cooling: Noctua CPU Cooler, 5+ Antec Case Fans

Motherboard: Gigabyte EP45T-UD3LR

CPU & CPU Cooler: Intel Q6600 @ 3.2GHz

RAM: 6GB Corsair XMS3 @1600Mhz 1.65v

Sound: Logitech Z-5500

Monitor: Acer 22"

Graphics Card: nVidia GTX285

Power: Antec 650W

HDD(s): 2 x Seagate 1TB + 1 WD 500GB and 1 Seagate 500GB

OS Used: Win7 Ultimate

Peripherals: Logitech G25 Wheel,

Logitech G15 LCD Keyboard,

Logitech G500 Mouse,

Logitech Extreme 3D Pro,

Razer eXactmat Control

Case: Coolermaster CM690 II + Corsair 1100W PSU

Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R

CPU & CPU Cooler: Intel CORE i7 950/3GHz

RAM: 12GB DDR3 Corsair 1600mhz Ram

Monitor: 22" Samsung & 19" Dell

Graphics Card: ATI HD 5770

HDD(s): 2x 2TB SeaGate HDD's

OS Used: W7 64bit Ultimate

Peripherals: Logitech G15, Razor Lachesis, Logitech Speakers

Edited by ls128

Coolermaster HAF 932 case

Corsair 850w modular psu

Noctua d14 CPU cooler

8 gb gskill ripjaws 1600 8-8-8-24

Intel i7 2600k (oc to 4.5 ghz with no vcore change. Just multi - not finished )

Gigabyte gtx285

Giganbyte ud5 mb

120gb ocz SSd 285mbps read/write

2tb caviar black (games)

2tb samsung green (media)

1tb caviar green for random (pr0n etc. )Rofl

SuperPi 1m = 7.6 secs.

26 degrees idle.

48 degrees max on burn-in test after 4 hours.

50 degree max on prime-95

  • 3 weeks later...

well i've updated mine a bit

Case: Antec Three Hundred

Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-P55-UD4

CPU & CPU Cooler: Intel i5 760 2.88ghz

RAM: 4gb dual channel G Skill Ripjaws 1600mhz

Monitor: 24" Benq

Graphics Card: 2x Gigabyte GTX 460 1gb OC Edition in SLI (currently running @ 840/1682/2004 mhz until I get a bigger PSU)

HDD(s): 2x 500gb WD Caviar Blacks in RAID 0, WD RE3 750gb, 1tb Caviar Green

OS Used: Windows 7 x64

Peripherals: Gigabyte keyboard, Logitech MX518 mouse

Case: Antec 1200 w/ 3 cm silent green fron fansMotherboard: Gigabyte ga-ex58-ud5CPU & CPU Cooler:Intel Core i7 920 w/ CM V8RAM: 10GB DDR3 ~ 6GB OCZ 1866mhz + 4GB corsair dominator 1600mhzMonitor: Samsung 2253BWGraphics Card: nVidia Geforce GTX280HDD(s): 8 Hard Drives, 9TB Total StorageOS Used: Windows 7 x64 Ultimate SP1 + Windows Vista x64 Ultimate SP2 + Windows XP x86 Pro sp3 + Mac OSx 10.6.4 (still in trial stage)Peripherals: Typical Stuff

  • 4 weeks later...

Case: NZXT Phantom / Corsair Professional Series 850W silver

Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD5

CPU & CPU Cooler: Intel i7 930 - Noctua NH-U12P SE2

RAM: 12GB DDR3 Mushkin 1600Mhz

Monitor: 26" ASUS

Graphics Card: 2x Gigabyte GTX 460 1gig SLI

HDD(s): WD 1TB + WD 500GB + Lacie 1TB external

OS Used: Windows7 64bit Ultimate

Peripherals: Razer Mamba, Razer Blackwidow Ultimate, Razer Megalodons, many mousepads (currently razer goliathus control)

I cant believe i never noticed the pc section. I spend 99% in forced indcution i guess.

Anyway...

Case: Coolermaster CM690

Motherboard: Gigabyte ep45-ds3

CPU & Cooler: Q6600 @ 2.85 with a TRUE cooler (worst overclocking chip ever!)

RAM: 8 gig of Patriot 800mhz

Monitor: Samsung 2253BW

Graphics Card: gigabyte 6850

HDD: 1x 500gb seagate 2x1tb seagate 1x 2tb seagate

PSU: Corsair HX-620

OS: Windows 7 Pro

Peripherals: Logitech Wave combo and JVC ha-g101's for sound. No need for speakers.

I'll be looking through this section more and hopefully contributing. I know more about pc's than cars actually...

Edited by k1netic
  • 3 weeks later...

Bored @ work so here goes....

In desperate need of an upgrade;

Case: NZXT alpha w/ multicard reader and triple fan controller

Motherboard: Gigabyte AM2+ GA-MA770

CPU & CPU Cooler: AMD Athlonx2 6000+ & Arctic Cooling Freezer pro/AS5 paste

RAM: 2x2gb DDR2 Kingston hyperx

Monitor: Samsung 223bw 22in LCD

Graphics Card: ATI HD4850 w/ passive AC accellero/AS5 paste

HDD(s): 1x 250gb WD System; 2x 1TB WD; 1XLacie 1TB external

OS Used: Vista 64bit

Peripherals: Razer deathadder 2 mouse/goliathus speed mat; Logitech G110 Keyboard; Creative fatality headset; Logi Z5500 speakers; Netgear Wireless modem/router

This was my pride and joy when I built it 4/5 years ago :P

Hmm, Why not,

Case: Lian Li X-900

Motherboard: MSI P67 Big Bang Marshal B3

CPU & CPU Cooler: i5 2500K @ 4Ghz, Cooled with a CM V6GT

RAM: 8GB Corsair Dominator GT

Monitor: 2 x dell U3011, Mmmm Dual 30" goodness

Graphics Card: 2 x Gainward GTX 580

HDD(s): Corsair Force Series 120GB + 18TB on my server

OS Used: Windows 7 Ultimate

Peripherals: : Logitech G15 & G9x

Cost me a good 6ish K, wishing I had saved it up for the car (Didn't have it at the time) :angry:

I think it's time to sell it off.

EDIT: Like k1netic I know a LOT more about PC's then cars, didn't know this place had a PC section lol.

Edited by Converge

Slight system change :)

Current:

CASE: Coolermaster HAF 932

PSU: Corsair hx850w modular

CPU COOLER: Noctua D14

M/B: Gigabyte Z68X-UD5-B3

RAM: 8 gb gskill ripjaws 1600 8-8-8-24

CPU: Intel i7 2600k @ 4.5 ghz (for now)

GPU: Gigabyte GTX285

SCREEN: Benq XL2410T 24" 120hz LED 0ms input lag

Storage:

WINDOWS: 120gb ocz SSd 285mbps read/write

GAMES: 2tb caviar black

MEDIA: 2tb samsung green

MISC: 1tb caviar green for random (pr0n etc. )Rofl

KEYBOARD: Logitech G15

MOUSE: Razer Lychesis v2.0

MOUSEPAD: Razer Destructor

SPEAKERS: Logitech Z-5500's

  • 1 month later...

OS: Windows 7 Ultimate x64

CPU: Intel Core i7 960 @ 4022MHz

Cooling: Corsair H70

Motherboard: ASUS Rampage III Formula

RAM:G-Skill Tridents 6GB DDR3

Graphics Card: Sapphire HD5870 1GB

Sound Card: Creative xFi pci-e Soundblaster

Power: Antec TruePower Quattro 1000w PSU

HDD: 1x OCZ Vertex II 60GB SSD

HDD: 1x WD Green 1TB HDD

Monitor: Dell u2711 2560x1440

Sound: Receiver/Passive bookshelves/Active Sub setup

Sound: Audio-Technica ATH-AD700 Headphones

Sound: Logitech USB Microphone

Peripherals: Steelseries Xai

Peripherals: Microsoft Sidewinder X4

Peripherals: Razer Goliath Speed Mousemat

Graphics card not good enough for the monitor :ermm:

Case: ATX CASE 1901 Delux Gaming Case (custom)

Motherboard: ASUS M4A78LT-M LE

CPU & CPU Cooler: AMD X2 555 AM3 Phenom II Black Edition 3.2gh Dual core (unlocked to quad)

RAM: 4GB DDR3 1333 kingston ram

Monitor: 2 acer 24" lcd

Graphics Card: ATI Radeon HD6850 HD 6850 1GB 1024MB DDR5 DVI HDMI PCIE

HDD(s): Western Digital 1TB 64MB SATA

OS Used: Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit

Peripherals: : Logitech G15

Built it myself cost just over 500 bucks (Tower)

  • 2 weeks later...

Case: Antec DF-85

Cooling: Coolermaster V8 +8 Antec Case Fans

Motherboard: Asus Rampage 3 Extreme

CPU: Intel i7 970 @4ghz

RAM: 6GB CorsairUltimate Dominator @1600Mhz 1.65v

Sound: Logitech 5.1ch

Monitor: BenQ 24" LCD

Graphics Card: Gainward GTX570- for sale!!! - $300

Power: Antec 1000W Quattro

HDD(s): 60gb OCZ SSD+ 1 WD 1,500GB hdd

OS Used: Win7

Hey guys :laugh: i built this about a year ago

case: Antec 1200

motherboard: P5N-D

cpu & cpu cooler: intel Core 2 Duo E8500 3.16 GHz cooling: xigmatek red scorpion heat sink and fan

ram: 8gig

monitors: 2X 28" Viewsonic Lcd running extended desktop

graphics cards: 2X nvidia 8800 GT 512 MB each

hard drives: 2x Wd raptor 150g each and a exteral 1 tb drive for saving stuff

PSU: 1000W

cooling: 12 internal fans

OS: Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit

peripherals: Logitech G19 Keyboard Logitech G500 mouse

webcam microsoft VX-5000

Edited by curb_bashed_rims281

nice list of parts wouldnt blow the budget i wouldnt think either

thats my biggest concern now a days

im over dropping 4k on builds thought the last time i did that 775 socket was brand spanking new as was a 3.2 (650) P4 chip and a x850PE 1gb >_<

im over dropping 4k on builds thought the last time i did that 775 socket was brand spanking new as was a 3.2 (650) P4 chip and a x850PE 1gb >_<

I remember spending close to $700 on a Radeon 9700pro back when they were the fastest video card avaliable... :closedeyes:

I still have it today collecting dust somewhere, now be lucky to even get 70c for it.

Edited by Mayuri Krab

yeah i remember those days only to be beaten by the 9800pro a few months later. then XT

hahaha my old invoice

PowerColor - R48-XVD3

PowerColor R48-XVD3 X850 XT Platinum Edition, PCI Express, 256MB GDDR3, Dual DVI, VIVO, HDTV $810.00 $0.00 $810.00 14-06-2006

Case: Aerocool CyborgX

Motherboard: Gigabyte P55A-UD3

CPU & CPU Cooler: Intel Core i5 @ 2.67GHz (stock fan, too lazy to put V8 back in atm)

RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws @1333MHz

Monitor: Asus 22"

Graphics Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 465

Power: Antec TruePower TP-550

HDD(s): 1x WD Caviar Black 1TB

OS Used: Windows 7 Professional (64-bit)

+ Blu-Ray writer (nice and cheap now)

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As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. 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    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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