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WDS lol.

Is Ghost still around? prob be your best bet for consumer stuff, but in this day of high speed broadband I'm too lazy to create a base image (that and its usually getting new hardware anyway that necessitates it).

Only a complete noob would still be running 7200rpm disks in this brave new SSD world. Could not believe the speed difference between RAID 0 Velociraptors and my SATA 2 Samsung OEM SSD.

  • 3 weeks later...

My Gaming Rig:

i7 980 CPU

CoolerMaster HAF X Case

XSPC Rasa 750 Water Cooler

ASUS RAMPAGE Extreme III Black Edition Motherboard

ASUS 27inch LED Widescreen Monitor

Gainward Phantom 580GTX 3GB SLi

Corsair AX1200 Gold PSU

Corsair Force Series GT 120GIG SSD

Corsair 12GIG Dominator GT Kit

Seagate Barracuda XT 3TB 64MB

Seagate Barracuda 1TB HDD

Razer Mamba Mouse

Logitech G19 Keyboard

Logitech Gamepad F710

LG Blu-Ray Drive

Sony Disc Drive x2

  • 2 weeks later...

Just replaced my Sammy 2443BW with a S27A750D

173628259_SamsungS23A750DS27A750D.jpg

It's got 120hz and 3D with active glasses (1920x1080)

I gotta say, 120hz is freaking awesome! The difference it makes in FPS games is huge, everything just looks.. buttery.

I've had a play around with the 3D, and it's definitely cool, but I'm not entirely sold. It makes aiming in FPS games very hard. GTA4 was amazing, but I had to turn the graphics down a fair bit to make it playable. Might have to invest in a second GTX670 down the track ;)

I would recommend this monitor to anyone, with two caveats- it's still a large monitor with a 1080p output, so it's not the sharpest thing in the world, and secondly that you really need a bit of graphical horsepower to make it worthwhile.

  • 3 weeks later...

I understand different meaninngs.

Got a bit carried away intel is a more efficent

chips etc but amd is bang for buck and helped

to drastically reduce my build price. 2 years later

my phenom is still relevant. Handles the latest games

couldnt justify the intels price atm.

pfft AMD ftw, cheaper and provides similiar and on par performance to costly intel processors.

No, just no. They certainly used to match Intel, dollar for dollar in performance stakes and even bettered Intel in some cases, but not anymore. AMD have dropped the ball on their processor range.

And really, I was just rib poking. TBH I'm not a CPU snob. While I can't see me buying AMD anytime soon (dollar/performance proposition doesn't add up IMO), if AMD works for you, so be it.

I read an interesting comparative review the other day of various processors, and the Intel's are quite a bit ahead.

The Bulldozers are still worse than the older Phenoms though ironically. Multi core fail, and weak single threaded performance.

I understand different meaninngs.

Got a bit carried away intel is a more efficent

chips etc but amd is bang for buck and helped

to drastically reduce my build price. 2 years later

my phenom is still relevant. Handles the latest games

couldnt justify the intels price atm.

Yet my old C2D E8400 clocked to 4.2ghz, 4 years old, still relatively fine with most games. It only struggled on CPU intensive game moments and would go back to perfect soon as that passed.

Realistically AMD have no other market than the "value" one to be in given their performance.

It's actually quite a shame AMD have dropped the ball so much as Intel really have no competition in the desktop/workstation space.

The server work space is a different kettle of fish however with Ivy Bridge the power savings are even greater so it really does put even more heat on.

That all said Intel will run into problems with their Tick-Tock process when they get past 14nm, it's really going to get tough but that is a few years away yet

cowboy1600: how's dat dere Catleap going for ya?

Nice case Aljo, can't say I'm tempted with the $$$ of the Lian Lis though!

Also how does using a tv go for you, i always thought it would give severe eyestrain if used like a conventional monitor. Have you considered a Samsung or el cheapo korean 1440p 27?

I'd also read that there is no point in striping SSDs as you lose TRIM functionality (a mate has a very similar setup to yours albeit with a GTX670), does ATTO / Crystal Disk Mark show big increases in performance? I've seen with the RevoDrives, that whilst having amazing read writes / IOPS, they boot slower than even my lil ol sata 2 Samsung OEM SSD.

You could always go to 3 or 4tb drives btw

cowboy1600: how's dat dere Catleap going for ya?

Nice case Aljo, can't say I'm tempted with the $$$ of the Lian Lis though!

Also how does using a tv go for you, i always thought it would give severe eyestrain if used like a conventional monitor. Have you considered a Samsung or el cheapo korean 1440p 27?

I'd also read that there is no point in striping SSDs as you lose TRIM functionality (a mate has a very similar setup to yours albeit with a GTX670), does ATTO / Crystal Disk Mark show big increases in performance? I've seen with the RevoDrives, that whilst having amazing read writes / IOPS, they boot slower than even my lil ol sata 2 Samsung OEM SSD.

You could always go to 3 or 4tb drives btw

$97 for that case no PSU though oh I forgot to put PSU in Corsair HX850 v2 850W

HD 1080P TV so resolution is good for a big panel dot pitch is ok not perfect but ok.

I have a 23" HP 2311f and a Samsung SyncMaster 226BW as my extended displays the 42" is being used for a bit of a difference most likely go back to being a tv soon. I am a huge Samsung fanboy. I am not an el cheapo kind of person if I pay money it needs to be high end if not the best.

Yes, I have to say I have not noticed any speed increase with the them in raid and possibly may have taken a hit on the slower side I will be switching to a single 2 drive config 1 for OS other for gaming will prob do it when I move over to win 8 as I just built this system and was OCing and tweaking and wanted to do that on a 100% stable OS. I never take a persons word over anything, I hear the advise weigh up the pros and cons to seeing it for myself and more often than not I see if I can tweak or mod it to work before I come to agree with their advise. The Intel SSD drives I own are the fastest drives I have ever owned and I used to run 4 raptor drives in raid 0 but I have not compared them against many other drives as they were also bought for the 5 year warranty. I will do some benches before I go back to single drive setup to have a comparison. If I find the time.

Yeah I base my server data HDD purchase on $ / MB and the 2TB were the thing and the extra 2TB I have I will use in some second hand systems I have yet to build so no waste on them. I use Drive Bender to have the drive be a one drive pool without the risk of a raid setup. Very good piece of software.

cowboy1600: how's dat dere Catleap going for ya?

Nice case Aljo, can't say I'm tempted with the $$$ of the Lian Lis though!

Also how does using a tv go for you, i always thought it would give severe eyestrain if used like a conventional monitor. Have you considered a Samsung or el cheapo korean 1440p 27?

I'd also read that there is no point in striping SSDs as you lose TRIM functionality (a mate has a very similar setup to yours albeit with a GTX670), does ATTO / Crystal Disk Mark show big increases in performance? I've seen with the RevoDrives, that whilst having amazing read writes / IOPS, they boot slower than even my lil ol sata 2 Samsung OEM SSD.

You could always go to 3 or 4tb drives btw

Brilliant.

Still flawless and still impresses the shit out of me everytime I use it.

And you're right on the RAID of SSDs. Total waste of time. Not only do you lose TRIM, but at the end of the day there are other parts of your PC which are going to bottleneck 1Gb/s sequential read/write speeds. Even half that in random read/write is going to go to waste.

Edited by Cowboy1600

I use Drive Bender to have the drive be a one drive pool without the risk of a raid setup. Very good piece of software.

Reduce the risk of what? RAID0/1 is the only thing that really carries risk.

The whole point of RAID5 etc is the redundancy.

I also need to rebuild my server - 5TB and its full. Need to go and blow a good $700 on drives, maybe more.

Love my Perc 5/i - can load up 8 drives all in RAID5 no drama and it moves files around very snappy

I

Hi all I am new to the forum and new proud owner of a 1990 R32 GTS4T RB20DET 4 Door but I am a long time gamer, PC enthusiast, Tech, IT consultant and all round techno geek.

Here is my rig setup/specs

Lian Li LanCool PC-K60 Black Case

Asus Sabertooth X79 Mobo

Intel Core i7 3930K with Corsair H80 watercooling and Noctua fans throughout OC'd to 4444MHz just on multiplier 44 & Bclk 101MHz will push further when I have time to waste

Take your pick Kingston HyperX 2133MHz DDR3 XMP 4x4GB (2 x 2x4GB Kits) watercooling kits or Corsair Vengeance 1866MHz DDR3 4x4GB

42" Samsung LCD TV HDMI connected 1920x1080 resolution. I want the Asus PB287Q 2560x1440 WQHD LED monitor when it comes out.

Gigabyte ATI HD7950 3GB GDDR5

2 x Intel 520S 240GB SATA3 SSD in raid 0 config and 1.5TB Seagate as backup and storage drive

Win7 Ultimate x64

Razer Nostromo, Nargunium notebook sized keyboard,Logitech MX518 mouse

I have 8x2TB drives - 4 Hatachis and 4 Seagates but only using 5 of them atm in my media server need to buy expansion SATA3 PCIE x1 card for the rest but no need of them yet 4TB free space on current setup.

I have returned the SSD's to single mode as I couldn't notice any speed improvements and wasn't happy with loosing TRIM I have 1 for OS and the other for games.

I also over clocked a little more without increasing the voltage 100% stable. CPU-4501.09=102.3x44 MEM-1909.8MHz 9-10-9-27-2T (timings could get a little tighter just needs extra time to test) bench tests return better results on some tests with MEM @ 2133 stock timings so will look at tweaking timings at 2133MHz and see how that goes. But I need to game a little and post here on the forum (actually use the system, hehe)

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    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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