Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys recently perchased my r33 an was wondering what i can do to get a little more hp out of the stock engine b4 i have to start spending $ on bolt ons.

It already has a hks s/steel dump, front mount and gfb dual port bov.

Heard the series 2 has ceramic wheel turbo an isnt a good idea to wind the boost up past 10psi is this true?

Others say the s2 has steel wheel any info on wot i can and cant do would be greatly appreciated as i've only played round wif 2jzgte's b4 hand an pretty much done away wif stock turbo's streight away.

thanks Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250924-stock-r33-series-2-turbo/
Share on other sites

10 psi max with an EBC would be the best bet... anything over that and you'll need an aftermarket ECU to prevent R&R

also ditch the bov, the stock one is fine and legal... mine holds 20psi all day every day

with a PFC and a decent tune i ran my stock turbo @ 1 bar for 12 months but it is generally accepted that 12psi is the limit of the exhaust wheel

ALL recent skyline turbos (R32 onwards) have a ceramic turbine wheel.

R32 has a steel compressor wheel

R33 series 1 has a steel compressor wheel

R33 seres 2 has a nylon compressor wheel

R34 has a nylon compressor wheel

AFAIK.

had 3 stock 25 turbos over 1 bar now and never killed one, current one (s1) whines hell bad but still boosts fine and holds 15psi

for your 3 , I will raise you well over 30 popped ones on R33's who thought it a good idea to run 1 bar based on shoddy advice.

give it 1 bar of boost often enough and they let go. I am very confident I could pop each and every one of those 3 you have had on an Rb25 within a day , given a go at them ;)

The sheer number of popped R33 turbos in the history of this forum boggles the mind. And if I had a dollar for every guy who said they ran 1 bar for a year with no troubles only to have the turbo pop within the month I would also have a few bucks in the pocket. :D

1 bar on an RB25 with ceramic wheel stock turbo = hand grenade.

+1

BUUUUT...

i thrashed the shit out of mine aswell... limiter abuse galore and spiked out to 1.1 bar pretty often (turbosmart mbc ftl)

damn thing had NO shaft play when i pulled it out...

i dont reccomend people doing it though... not to mention it really doesn't make any more worthwile power over 12 psi anyway

depends if you're running a bleed valve or EBC too. on my R31 I ran a bleed valve and it hit 15psi in the midrange and tapered off to 10psi at high revs. That (standard) turbo had no problems at all, most likely because your peak shaft speed is at redline (assuming same boost level at all revs). The turbo doesn't have to work too hard to produce 15psi at 4000RPM and then at 7000RPM it's only producing 10 pound.

EBC running 1 bar to redline, different story. Then the turbo is forced to spin much faster -> fail.

ALL recent skyline turbos (R32 onwards) have a ceramic turbine wheel.

R32 has a steel compressor wheel

R33 series 1 has a steel compressor wheel

R33 seres 2 has a nylon compressor wheel

R34 has a nylon compressor wheel

AFAIK.

Exchange steel for aluminium, i dont think there has ever been a turbo with a steel comp wheel.

so its safe to run say 10psi without doin any harm? the engine only has 90,000k's on it an i dont have alot of cash atm so a lil more boost wont hurt for the time being hopefully, if i was to run 10psi all day every day how long till the wear an tear takes its toll if it even does? i'll most likely pull the t/smart boost tee off my 2jz an wind the boost in 2morrow, iz there anything else i should know about, to watch out for or what will be needed to run aswell to keep things safe?

also around what hp roughly will 10psi get me?

thanks for the info guys its greatly appreciated, Matt.

Edited by MAFIA R33
so its safe to run say 10psi without doin any harm? the engine only has 90,000k's on it an i dont have alot of cash atm so a lil more boost wont hurt for the time being hopefully, if i was to run 10psi all day every day how long till the wear an tear takes its toll if it even does? i'll most likely pull the t/smart boost tee off my 2jz an wind the boost in 2morrow, iz there anything else i should know about, to watch out for or what will be needed to run aswell to keep things safe?

also around what hp roughly will 10psi get me?

thanks for the info guys its greatly appreciated, Matt.

I ran anywhere between 10-12psi for just over a year and when i pulled the turbo off it was in excellent condish still. Mind you the car was running standard boost before that with only a cat back zorst (which got boring quite quick).Have a look at the RB25 upgrade thread that should give you a good idea of what your car should be producing. My car for instance with Blitz FMIC Turbo back zorst, EBC made 188rwkw @ 11psi.

10psi won't wear anything out any quicker especially if you treat your car nicely ie warm it up before boosting and drive gently the last few minutes of your trip to let everything cool down again. keep it serviced regularly and it'll be sweet.

you should keep an ear out for pinging on the new boost setting, with standard exhaust my series 2 will ping more so I've left it standard until i do the exhaust.

12psi

stand alone ecu with aggressive tune

good tyres

pineapple, camber, castor kit

short shift kit

intercooler

good 3" turbo back exhaust

cold air intake

there wont be much on the street that can beat you in this setup

should make around 190-200rwkw

omg.. here we go again..

I rev bashed my RB20DET with a RB25DET S1 turbo for 2 years @ 1bar, turbo still fine... the new owner bashes rev limiter more than I do, still fine.

Did it hold 1 bar to redline? With a bleeder it probably didn't.

As mentioned before for your one Rb25 turbo I can name plenty more than 30 dead ones.

omg.. here we go again..

I rev bashed my RB20DET with a RB25DET S1 turbo for 2 years @ 1bar, turbo still fine... the new owner bashes rev limiter more than I do, still fine.

Ohhh the stupidity. First you start with the "omg....here we go again.... " line as if you know what you're talking about. Then present a post with 2 basic and compounding flaws.

Flaw 1: You are using anecdotal evidence from 1 car. (Whereas plenty of people have had turbos lose their exhaust wheel running 1bar)

Flaw 2: You were using an RB25 turbo at 15psi on a 2.0L engine !!! (This is NOT THE SAME ABUSE as running 15psi on a 2.5L engine. The shaft speed of that turbo on a 2L in not as high as if it was running the same boost on a 2.5L engine)

So yeah, other readers please disregard his post. I have no experience personally with blowing an RB25 turbo. I run 10.5psi (as on my gauge) - no issues after 3 years.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...