Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's a question for ya, you mentioned a plazmaman plenum. Will this fit under the bonnet with a RB30/25 since the RB30 will raise the engine height a bit? Because i've looked at mine before and i swear with the extra height of a RB30 the front of the plenum will hit the bonnet.

^^^^^Have you seen what else they have run on the stock bottom end. There is a recent post by rips in the rb30 section. A built standard bottom end will handle that with some mods.

quote from rips

I can also vouch for stock RB30 cranks to 9000rpm 1000+hp, and stock RB30, pistons and rods to 8000rpm and over 500rwkw in a track car without problems, although I usually tell my customers 7200rpm, 1.5 bar 400rwkw.

If have money to burn.....

Edited by Bond

Why dont you guys just build your own engines? Do a bit of research like everyone else (there is so much of it on this forum its not funny) and instruct an engine builder to build it to your specs. You could do it for half the price

Why dont you guys just build your own engines? Do a bit of research like everyone else (there is so much of it on this forum its not funny) and instruct an engine builder to build it to your specs. You could do it for half the price

Agreed... Between the PDF, Oil control thread, and the conversion thread theres not much else you need.

...apart from the tools, the time, the space and the confidence that you wont make an elementary mistake that will involve having the engine pulled and the job done properly by someone you should have paid in the first place.

because i'm lazy and rips are experienced and well reccomended

haha +1

Furthermore, I just don't have the confidence to do it myself and ask a mechanic to build it. WHat happens if I get something wrong, I can only blame myself, whereas if the mechanic does it all, and something turns out foul, you can point the finger/gun at him.

But yes, as always, there is a premium associated with the mechanic doing all of this.

I guess it's too late anyways for me as I've already paid the mechanic.

Here's a question for ya, you mentioned a plazmaman plenum. Will this fit under the bonnet with a RB30/25 since the RB30 will raise the engine height a bit? Because i've looked at mine before and i swear with the extra height of a RB30 the front of the plenum will hit the bonnet.

Might be different in a 33 but I looked at that and it definitely wasn't going to fit in my 32. That is why I had a custom manifold made out of my stock runners and a 26 plenum :D

Why dont you guys just build your own engines? Do a bit of research like everyone else (there is so much of it on this forum its not funny) and instruct an engine builder to build it to your specs. You could do it for half the price

+1

Might be different in a 33 but I looked at that and it definitely wasn't going to fit in my 32. That is why I had a custom manifold made out of my stock runners and a 26 plenum :D

Yeah thats what i thought. I dont think a plazmaman plenum will fit under the bonnet on a 30/25 in a skyline. Might have to look into this Turbz-RB25.

Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't $8,700 for a fully forged RB30 engine a little too expensive?

my old boss had to fork out roughly 10k on his rb30 block but that had block strengthening done to it as they prone on cracking

plus depends what brand you're using, also you're getting it all prepped for the forgies to go in, so yeah i'd say maybe not quite that

but very close to it

my old boss had to fork out roughly 10k on his rb30 block but that had block strengthening done to it as they prone on cracking

plus depends what brand you're using, also you're getting it all prepped for the forgies to go in, so yeah i'd say maybe not quite that

but very close to it

Prone to cracking? More info please, RIPS 8 second stock bottom end seems to differ. The only part of the rb30 "prone" to cracking is the oil pump, and thats if you use something other than an rb30 pump.

For $8700, i would be wanting a high end oil pump.IMO its the first place you should spend the money on an rb bottom end(although i didn't)

This is what is included in the package:

Used RB30 short engine

Drilled and tapped to fit RB25 head studs

Engine is stripped and chemically cleaned

Block rebored and torque plate honed

Head gasket surface CBN milled to suit MLS gaskets

Crankshaft balanced, micropolished and fitted with screw in oil gallery plugs

Oil pump drive collar supplied and fitted

Connecting rods resized, fitted with new bolts and pin bushes and balanced

Short engine assembled using new forged pistons and rings, ACL race series bearings, new N1 oil pump, seals, painted and fitted with oil & water plugs.

Plus the mechanic is porting the head, as well as fitting the bottom end to the head.

So it's not just the engine itself, it's the porting of the head and fitting the block which raises the price to $8,700.

Not to mention that exchange rates have an impact upon parts, so stuff would have been cheaper in june 2008 when our dollar bought 0.98USD.

Cheers for your help fellas

eeeeeeeeeek your telling us its $8700 for a $3000 port job and then $5700 for a basic rebuilt with stock rods and crank?

Sorry, rods aren't stock. they are spool RB30 forged H-Beam rods.

They cost around $850 just for themselves.

So you guys still think it's expensive?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...