Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It sounds like a pain in ass to register a car in NSW...

In the ACT we just pay one lump sum every year that includes rego and CTP and we dont have compulsary inspections either, once the car has passed its first inspection as long as you dont get defected and you dont let the rego run out for more than 12 months you dont ever have to have it inspected again.

I guess we have a pretty good deal going down here :)

and if we get personalised plates, we pay once and get them forever, no paying stupid fees each year!

I bought my car on about the 16th of december, you try pay for presents and save enough to drink when you have to pay $1500 rego and $3000 insurance.

What a rip! Damn car!!

$1500 rego? $3000 insurance?

Im new to this club and i bought my car last december 08 paid

$500 for my rego for 2010

$650 CTP greenslip

$2050 for Full Insurance

for me its $275 rego fee, vehicle tax.

CTP greenslip $336 (join sau NSW club and see how i saved $300 on my green slip, only costs about $60 to join so its well worth joining just for that info)

Comprehensive insurance with just car @ $1800 a year, car is insured for $17k (thats what they valued it at so i'm not complaining), mildly modified. R33 gts-t series 2.

cant see why you guys are paying so much, ask questions, dont just accept the first number they give you.

hope this helps...

and all this is in my name, im 22 years old, still on green p's for a few months, no accidents though.

My 'Line Rego is due 12th Dec

My 'Lude Rego is due 21st Dec

Everyone gets cheap prezzies on the 25th

I didn't know about the 6 month rego - don't celebrate Yulefest anyways

$1500 rego? $3000 insurance?

for me its $275 rego fee, vehicle tax.

CTP greenslip $336 (join sau NSW club and see how i saved $300 on my green slip, only costs about $60 to join so its well worth joining just for that info)

Comprehensive insurance with just car @ $1800 a year, car is insured for $17k (thats what they valued it at so i'm not complaining), mildly modified. R33 gts-t series 2.

cant see why you guys are paying so much, ask questions, dont just accept the first number they give you.

hope this helps...

and all this is in my name, im 22 years old, still on green p's for a few months, no accidents though.

That sounds promising.

Also,I did like you said,and asked an insurer some questions about agreed value + modifications.

Now they said that my mods will be covered provided their legal.

Does that mean they have to be engineered to be deemed legal? like exhaust and suspension...

My r33 gtst is the first car i bought myself. My problem is christmass and new years are expensive times. I shouldnt have bought a car on the 14th of january 2008. because on the 14th of january 2009 insurance, pink, green slip, rego all has to be paid right after the hollidays lol.

just some advice to somebody who is wanting to buy a car at this time of year, DONT!!!

Ha how do you think i feel my rego ran out on the 23 of december. Word to the wise dont buy are car when if rego ends in december.

$1500 rego? $3000 insurance?

for me its $275 rego fee, vehicle tax.

CTP greenslip $336 (join sau NSW club and see how i saved $300 on my green slip, only costs about $60 to join so its well worth joining just for that info)

Comprehensive insurance with just car @ $1800 a year, car is insured for $17k (thats what they valued it at so i'm not complaining), mildly modified. R33 gts-t series 2.

cant see why you guys are paying so much, ask questions, dont just accept the first number they give you.

hope this helps...

and all this is in my name, im 22 years old, still on green p's for a few months, no accidents though.

Im a club member but too late i already bought the insurance just after Shell put me on members area group

You could leave enough money aside to cover insurance, CTP, rego and a potential excess all year around...

Just saying :(

You guys obviously fail at budgetting hey?

Put a bit of money aside each week and it pays for itself... Plus you get interest on it.

I hear an echo :)

You guys obviously fail at budgetting hey?

Put a bit of money aside each week and it pays for itself... Plus you get interest on it.

when you study full time, work full time, you wanna party full time and go on $15000 european adventures..... things get alittle tight sometimes, how else could i save $15k in the first place without budgeting lol.... you only live once.

nah we arn't complaining or failing at budgetting (generally speaking) just the bank account really drops bad after the festive season and then other expenses like rego, insurance...ect.... are due at same time

lol i find when i buy i car i know i have to pay trasfer/ insurance/ rego if its due on the car im buying

now im not quite retarded but if i cant affor all of the above in one go i generally buy a cheaper car

im also writing a book... chapter one is called "going to the university of life"

suck the balls

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...