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Hi all , lots a people who use Power FC's on R33s give some thought to using the Z32TT AFM and although wiring them in is not a biggy I though this idea may interest those who don't like cutting std wiring looms .

I bought my Z32 AFM from that place in the same approximate area as Silver Water Automotive but on the other side of the main drag .

At the time I asked about the plug adapter and was mistakenly of the opinion that it would plug to the std R33 AFM plug and the Z32 AFM , should have learnt by now never to assume anything .

I think the bite was 30ish dollars for the "flying lead flat plug" and I though nah at the time . Someone here mentioned that VL Commodes use the same plug fitting as the TT AFM and I haunt Pick and Payless so I grabbed (cutters) a few next time I was there .

The thing I couldn't find until today was an AFM that used the same 3 pin fitting as the std RB25's one , turns out 1995 Mazda 626's use the same thing so I murdered a couple of those to get the male side of the union .

Like on the 25 AFM the fittings plastic shroud is held to the AFM with two phillips head screws but it wont come apart because the three steel strips inside are soldered to a circuit board and there's silicon gunge to seal crud out .

You need to "persuade" the plastic lid to exit the unit and then you can see where the steel strips come in from the back of our male plug . You can snip these with wire cutters (in front of the resistor like striped gadgets) and feed them back through the silicon sealant - once the external screws are removed .

So now you have the male fitting and it plugs straight into your R33's female AFM plug . If you got yourself the 7 pin flat plug from a VL what you now need to do is join them together and you have a solution that requires no tools to plug into a std AFM or the Z32TT one .

To make the new male fitting workable you could solder three wires to the thin steel strips and use something to glue it together so that the steel strips wouldn't work harden and break off with vibration etc .

Maybe Jaycar has something that the plastic shroud could screw to in the way of a proper plug backing and that filled in to support the new wires/steel strips .

Any thoughts ?

Cheers A .

Hey Disco,

I considered swapping the male plug over on my Z32 (the std afm being the donor) but decided against molstering my shinny new z32 and simply spliced the VL afm plug in to the existing loom.

Nice and tidy and provides provision for plugging the stock afm back should the need arise.

Out of the std afm's I've repaired I have not come across a s2 r33 one as of yet. If the male plug dimensions are the same it would be a simple matter of de-solder from the pcb then resolder the new male plug, 2 screws and a little black silicon.

Yeah mine is not the easiest method but it just means that you can use this adapter sub loom to plug into the Z32TT one and go back to std quickly and easily if required . Sort of what the Japanese'd call a "bolt on" thing , the AFM is bolted on ...

Cheers A .

As above my Z32 is spliced and soldered into the existing wiring so i have the option of plugging the standard one straight back on if need be.

Thats how mines done, spliced it in with the stock one so you can swap over between the two. This is an interesting aternative though...

Edited by MintR33
  • 5 weeks later...

Hey guys i just recently purcahsed a z32 AFM, Where do i get this plug from? People are saying a VL commordore plug will fit? if so , how much roughly? do you guys think it will cost? Do i need the cables as well or just the plugs and my tuner can do it from there? or do i need to give him the plug and the cables?

A little more info in case anyone is looking for the male plug fitting that S2 R33 GTS25T's have on their std AFM's .

Some of the mid 90's Mazda 626's have a transister which uses this same plug .

Their male plugs are moulded into a rectangular composite box which has an aluminium plate glued to the mounting side .

When you remove (pry gently) this plate of the box is full of a gelatinous silicon solution , the electronic guts are on the inner side of the ally plate .

Once the guts are removed you are left with the three pins which you could solder three wires to and feed out through holes you could drill in the rear of the box . Fill the empty space with araldite (not acid cure silastic) and wire your VL type AFM plug to your three wires .

Plug the adapter box to your R33s AFM plug and the VL type one to your VG30TT AFM . Easy ?

Cheers A .

No , the plug off the Mazda Transistor box (or some Mazda AFMs) is what is needed to plug the R33 std AFM loom (car harness side) into .

To spell it out , your R33 GTSTs factory AFM has a male 3 pin shrouded connector to which the std female loom connector plugs into .

I have not been able to find the necessary 3 pin male plug other than on R33 AFMs/some 90s era Mazda AFMs and or transistor .

Like I said earlier I want to make an adapter loom which plugs into an R33s std female loom plug and the Z32TT AFM at its other end .

The Z32TT AFM can use the same plug as VL Commodores use so if hard up cut one off a Commode at a wrecker . New is always preferable with electrical plug fittings but second handies if in good nick (no dry or high resistance joints) can work too .

A .

I think you've come up with a good idea changing the male side of the plug, but as many have said i think its alot easier just to add in the Z32 plug along with the standard one. And plus I know id be reluctant to open up and chop up my Z32 AFM.

...and also FYI late model Nissan Maximas have the same Z32 plug on their AFM as well. So another cheap alternative to VL connectors.

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