Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I must be missing something, whats the relevance to this discussion Marko?

I am making a statement that its a nice car, is that not allowed on sau?

about the same relevance as that 300,000 word 20 year old sig quote

hmmmm...i will amend my sig if its that much of an eyesore

Thought that may be the case!

enough with the bait! give it a rest

Always a bit sceptical when theres no corrections on a dyno dynamics graph for all we know that graph could be stock turbos with 200 degrees of intake compensation.. Before xmas my car made 492rwkw on e85 and 26psi on a pretty hot day with 28degrees AirTemp 49 degrees InletTemp compensation worked in the figure i thought nice not much to go till 500 now. After having a few problems we stopped tuning for the day, 2 days later went to another dyno, tune unchanged made 460rwkw i was like :mad:

Anyway dynos tell porkies we need more mph on the 1/4 in this thread.. :cheers:

There was a full thread on the car specs if you want to know more - rb29 was in the title IIRC.

There was a full thread on the car specs if you want to know more - rb29 was in the title IIRC.

"RB29 wow". Great thread, and that graph is pure car porn.

Hey question for you guys.. Im currently building my engine, and a thought crossed my mind.. The gtx3076r's compressor map shows it can flow around 65lbs/min of air at ~29psi. Could this translate into a hopeful ~530 - 550rwhp? Or ~400rwkw? I mean, could it be done for sake of argument..

The housing configuration i figured would be a 1.06 T4, most likely divided and mated to a twin scroll manifold.

Any thoughts guys? :)

I wouldn't, not unless you've seen anyone push one that hard and make that much power on a dyno type that gives results which reads in the area you aim to reach that power on. You certainly won't be getting that power from one on pump gas on any dyno, E85 or something similar would be a must.

400kw should be achieveable on E85 with a GTX3076R at least on a hub dyno, actually even potentially with a run of the mill GT3076R.

"RB29 wow". Great thread, and that graph is pure car porn.

Hey question for you guys.. Im currently building my engine, and a thought crossed my mind.. The gtx3076r's compressor map shows it can flow around 65lbs/min of air at ~29psi. Could this translate into a hopeful ~530 - 550rwhp? Or ~400rwkw? I mean, could it be done for sake of argument..

The housing configuration i figured would be a 1.06 T4, most likely divided and mated to a twin scroll manifold.

Any thoughts guys? :)

I thought the same thing, the GTX3076 compressor flows nearly 5 lbs more than the GT35 on paper so 400atw should be theoretically possible with enough boost.

I wouldn't, not unless you've seen anyone push one that hard and make that much power on a dyno type that gives results which reads in the area you aim to reach that power on. You certainly won't be getting that power from one on pump gas on any dyno, E85 or something similar would be a must.

400kw should be achieveable on E85 with a GTX3076R at least on a hub dyno, actually even potentially with a run of the mill GT3076R.

Was definately thinking the e85 route aswell. IIRC, some of the supra guys have them running 26psi, so i figure the odd jump to 29psi would be ok. And because of the 1.06a/r, EGT temps *should* be fairly acceptable.. I think?

Wouldnt the gt3076 be out of its ideal efficiency? I mean, i havent seen one go past ~24psi, but then again i havent looked for that exact figure..

My build should be done around september, so might push it to 29psi to see if its achievable.. For science-sake :)

Scotty, glad to see im not the only one! :D i know the gtx are marginally slower coming onto boost, but i figure the divided housing mated to a twin scroll mani should bring it back to bee's dick of difference.

Thanks for the input gents! :D

The normal GT3076Rs have been pushed up past that before and made good power, but yeah they are definitely pushing shxt up a hill. I reckon the gun choice for what you're looking at doing would be a FP GT3076RHTA personally.... have a look into those while you're considering it.

They are claimed as 59lb/min, which sounds underwhelming compared to the GTX but bare in mind the maximum flow is rated to whatever flow efficiency the company decide to use as a cut-off and isn't an absolute - and also Garrett themselves have ultimately said the 77mm compressor used on the GTX3076R isn't suited to the GT30 hotside by putting it on the GTX3576R, the extra flow is argueably redundant on the GT30 turbine.

I think the HTA76 wheel is basically the ultimate compressor for a GT30 turbine, the most flow you could put through that turbine with better response than a normal 56trim GT3076R wheel.

Problem with ramming so much boost etc, what happens if you get a slightly average batch of fuel?

There is really not enough room for error running uncontrolled fuels in street cars.

Mine is lasting well so far, haven't had any bad batches of Caltex yet either according to the wideband anyway. I did hear it pinking once on cruise one of the hot days we had, but its running 18:1 there for economy atm. >_<

Im not scared about the little VQ, seen many stock VQ30det's pushing big numbers (400-450kw) and the VQ25det runs the same rods, the main worry is the auto. Either way, I have spare engines and a trans here.

I doubt 400 is attainable with the auto, (I would be happy with 350) but a built RB with a GTX3076 would sh*t it in. I will check out the HTA76 further Lithium but I think the compressor housing is a little too big. Does it still run the Garrett rear?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...