Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am assuming you're using standard manifolds Ryan?

Great result!

Actually stock manifolds that I got UAS to get extrude honed back 2004 been 100% reliable so far. The exits of the manifolds were slightly larger than normal definately alot smaller than the gasket size which it is now. Got e85 and toluene/pump testing to go so will see how far we can keep pushing the low mounts.

Goes to show it's worth port matching the stock manifolds to the turbos, and here I was laughed at in a recent thread when I mentioned doing it in 350kw+ applications.

yeah thats right mate !!! well done ryan i have seen your car at willowbank its ridiculous !!!

Closer inspection was almost identical boost pressure but only 395kw on this particular run. I ran 131mph on 395kw so will see in a few weeks if it turns in mph.. Changes that could account for the gains were opening up stock manifolds and port matching everything. Removing unused 02 sensors from the very small split dump entries. Repairing front turbo outlet pipe which was squashed after i got to it with a hammer to make some clearance from the rocker cover due to a miss allignment of the front compressor housing and i CBF pulling the turbo off.. >_< So bring on willowbank i can finally start working on getting my times down without getting asked to leave every visit.. :cheers:

That's a very dubious result - I'm very skeptical that there would be gains throughout the entire rev range. Making things flow better usually decreases hp at low velocities and increases hp at higher velocities. My bet it was a different shootout mode or strapping technique or some kind of dyno technique.

There are good gains to be had by porting. In terms of percentage, Ryan's car gained 5% which sounds very real to me.

I'm not saying there isn't gains to be had from porting but ryans's car has increased volumetric effciency throughout the entire rev range. I've never witnessed this on any port job I've seen, there are always trade offs.

Edited by rob82

I'm not saying there isn't gains to be had from porting but ryans's car has increased volumetric effciency throughout the entire rev range. I've never witnessed this on any port job I've seen, there are always trade offs.

Shootout 6f and strapped down as per normal and wasn't leaving the rear roller but regardless all the little improvements should've help so the strip should show something..

I'm not saying there isn't gains to be had from porting but ryans's car has increased volumetric effciency throughout the entire rev range. I've never witnessed this on any port job I've seen, there are always trade offs.

Very simple, he has decreased exhaust manifold back pressure.

Shootout 6f and strapped down as per normal and wasn't leaving the rear roller but regardless all the little improvements should've help so the strip should show something..

Was it run in on a 2wd dyno or 4wd. I fully understand how difficult it is to get reliable data even at lower horsepower levels I've been tuning cars for years now and there is a lot of work to get reliable dyno readings - to me that's what makes a good dyno operator. It's an art in itself.

That aside results like this have got to make you wonder if the dyno techniques were consistent for the two runs. Anyways the mph should tell the story because if the dyno results are indicative of the power gain then your probably looking at another 3-5mph gain.

It's funny that there is one thread with tubular manifold that look to have been quiet well designed that shows no gain in hp power and then there is this thread which says the opposite.

Very simple, he has decreased exhaust manifold back pressure.

In this situation nothing has change on the intake side and the boost pressure is the same before and after. That means exhaust back pressure is only a function of flow through the turbine. As the flow through the turbine increases with rpm the back pressure increase exponentially meaning that if you port the manifold and make it flow better the gains will only be noticeable at high higher rpm. The other thing I havnt mentioned is the effect of gas velocity on turbine efficiency.

If you decrease backpressure you can increase scavenging hence VE, it is like putting a cork in the exhaust, it will kill power everywhere but especially at high rpm, doesn't make sense for it to gain linearly over the entire power band.

In this situation nothing has change on the intake side and the boost pressure is the same before and after. That means exhaust back pressure is only a function of flow through the turbine. As the flow through the turbine increases with rpm the back pressure increase exponentially meaning that if you port the manifold and make it flow better the gains will only be noticeable at high higher rpm. The other thing I havnt mentioned is the effect of gas velocity on turbine efficiency.

I do not see why you find it so difficult to comprehend. Look at the graph, as it is starting to make power (as boost pressure is increasing) it is making more power than before as a result of less manifold back pressure that allows the engine to breathe better and behave like an N/A engine. Flow through the turbine was impeded by the exahust manifold, simple. It disproves your higher rpm only theory.

I do not see why you find it so difficult to comprehend. Look at the graph, as it is starting to make power (as boost pressure is increasing) it is making more power than before as a result of less manifold back pressure that allows the engine to breathe better and behave like an N/A engine. Flow through the turbine was impeded by the exahust manifold, simple. It disproves your higher rpm only theory.

If you've ever plotted exhaust back pressure vs intake pressure you would see what I mean. Exhaust back pressure isn't directly related to intake pressure.

And if you slightly restrict your exhaust system the losses will only be above the rpm where the growth in exhaust back pressure starts to become substantial NOT throughout the entire rpm range.

Decided it was time i did some proper port matching on the twins and open up the exits of the manifold while i was there. Looks like it payed off i went from 405rwkw to 430 on 1 psi less boost using 98octane at 23psi. Check out how flat my boost curve is. :rofl2:

full boost at 4400rpm-ish?

post-73885-0-09323800-1332557482_thumb.jpgGTR R34 RB30 conversion

RB30 block rebuild by Pro engines, inc forged pistons, rods.

Nitto oil pump

Garret -5 new turbos

Aftermarket injtrs,manifolds, cams, detail not known

Reconditioned GTR head

Drives like a V8

On boost above 2500 rpm, smooth as, with progressive boost increase.

Torque tapers off above 5500 rpm, but still 77% max torque at 7000rpm

Interesting to compare this with Racepace Ben's WOW 2.9

Low rpm torque better than Ben's up to 5000 rpm, then Ben's better revability takes over.

Worth mentioning this dyno done on 4WD. Ben's on 2WD. 4% difference maybe?

Also note, Ben's diff is very short, 230 kph at 8000rpm

With RB30 bottom end, rpm limited to 7200.

Max torque at 3500rpm and comes up nicely from 2500 rpm.

Estimated air flow 32 lb/min at 21 psi each turbo. Equates to about 10.5 FWHP per lb/min air.

full boost at 4400rpm-ish?

Yep close about 4300 on pump but I think around 3800 on e85. I still believe my +2mm Exhuast valves effect spool a bit... Not only was it a smallish outlet on the manifolds but there could have been a nasty square edge in the mix aswell I really should've matched it up earlier but got lazy...

If you've ever plotted exhaust back pressure vs intake pressure you would see what I mean. Exhaust back pressure isn't directly related to intake pressure.

And if you slightly restrict your exhaust system the losses will only be above the rpm where the growth in exhaust back pressure starts to become substantial NOT throughout the entire rpm range.

I am not suggesting anything like that.

Without measuring it is wrong to assume, the exhaust manifold in this case may have been a restriction from 4000rpm onwards.

Also note, Ben's diff is very short, 230 kph at 8000rpm

How do you work that out exactly? :huh:

You - 175km/h @ 7000rpm (4th)

RPMGTR - 230km/h @ 8000rpm (4th)

You are doing 150km/h @ 6k, 175km/h @ 7k... So roughly 200km/h you are 8k

Meaning yours is the shorter ratio... So of course yours appears more responsive.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...